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Post by Knight Woodworks on Sept 17, 2015 18:20:56 GMT -5
Wow, you guys are quick!
Joe-Thanks for the link, as they say a picture is worth a lot. Not sure how I missed that...
Wrightwoodworks-Thanks for the Cleanbox info and the vid Joe linked to.
John
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Oct 5, 2015 17:57:21 GMT -5
Not sure this is the correct place for this but I didn't want to start a new category.
i have a couple of questions regarding the riving knife, aka the kerf guide, on the Erika 70. Need to make a plunge cut, by that, I mean a cut where you lower the blade below the table, position the panel on the table above the blade and slowly raise the blade until it pierces the panel. Can't do it because the knife interferes. Is there a way to lower the riving knife significantly below the blade? If not, how do you remove the riving knife.
Thanks,
John
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questa
Junior Member
Posts: 62 
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Post by questa on Oct 5, 2015 18:17:43 GMT -5
See section 4.2 of the manual., pg 34 on how to adjust the riving knife. You can probably get 15mm of play or so as you can set it for a 210mm blade. I would not recommend removing it. I had one of the bolt/nuts come loose and fall off and to get it back on had to partially remove the dust cover, to say it was a PIA is an understatement.
Joe had some issues with riving knife perhaps he can add to this.
Len
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Oct 5, 2015 18:40:13 GMT -5
First off congrats on the new saw !!
Know that style of cut all to well ,taking the riving knife off is a option . Check out the under carriage with the schematic in hand ,personally will never take the riving knife apart again .PITA!
A kss saw or tracksaw from the backside of the panel should do the trick if clamping is possible , or spend more money on the aerofix.......lol.
Good luck John
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Oct 5, 2015 18:45:42 GMT -5
Len,
Thanks for the reply. In my manual, for the 70Ec, info on the riving knife is section 4.6 pg 26. I'm guessing that the different models have different manuals? On my saw, the lower knife position is only a few mm below the blade, not enough to do what I need. I tried removing the dust cover and quickly saw that it would indeed be a PITA and am hoping there is a better way.
Thanks again,
John
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Oct 5, 2015 18:52:21 GMT -5
Joe,
We cross posted. Thanks for the congrats and the advise. I was considering the track saw, but so wanted my new TS to do the the job.
Guess I won't be taking the splitter apart any time soon.
Thanks guys,
John
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Oct 5, 2015 20:39:36 GMT -5
Hi John! Yeah, it would seem the riving knife is not easily adjustable, which I suppose is a good and bad thing. I DO really like that you can adjust its height without needing to flip a lever or anything, just pull up or push down, brilliant! I am absolutely loving my Erika 70. I'll write up my own review sometime later, but for now I'm happy to report that the saw has plenty of power, I'm happy with the dust collection (processing solid wood and Baltic Birch plywood), and the saw is very portable. The stock blade rips wonderfully, and if you take your time on crosscuts it delivers a splinter free cut. I'm happy enough with the stock fence, it is solid and easy to adjust. The aluminum profile of the fence can be laid flat on the table, a welcome feature when making narrow rips. I ordered the mobility set (wheels) with my saw, and they are great!! The above being said, I am already planning my expansion plans for the saw. Below is my list, followed by a handful of questions, I hope you guys can help me out! BTW, I am referencing the accessories on: katalog.mafell.de/index.php?IdTreeGroup=12970&IdProduct=30266First off, I want to allow for processing wider panels (the stock fence only allows ~10" to either side of the blade). Granted, I try to process larger sheets with my MT55cc and MFT/3 tables, but there are times when processing on the Erika would be nice. To that end, I plan on: 038686 Supporting Rail 1m (2x) for extending the width of the table 202893 Extension and Router Table to extend the table surface 035358 Parallel Guide Fence as a dedicated ripping fence Eventually, I would like to acquire the Multi-purpose guide fence MFA, particularly when I anticipate a lot of miter cuts, for instance cutting mitered casing for windows and doors. Also, I suppose eventually I would want the sliding table, but that is a low priority for me right now. What I need help with, is figuring out which Fence Guide Extension to buy. I would like this for two reasons. The first, is to use in conjunction with the flip stop for repeated cross cuts. Secondly, I would like to use it as a full-length ripping fence. There appears to be two models available, one (038392) which is designated for the universal guide fence that ships with the Erika 70, and for which you need to buy the drop stop as an accessory, and the other (203396) which comes with the drop stop, and is designated to work with the MFA. From the photos I've cobbled together, both fences appear to be the same extrusion pattern, but I believe that Wrightwoodwork has suggested that the MFA version is keyed at the ends to index with the complementary MFA sub-fence. ---Ultimately, does either fence work just fine for ripping? ---If my intention is to ultimately get the MFA, can I use the MFA 1m fence with the Universal Guide Fence in the mean time? ---Is there any hardware (nuts, knobs) that you suggest I get to connect the 1m fence with the Parallel Guide Fence? I also plan on getting the Clamping Device (038294) for securing the 1m fence when ripping. Any input you folks can offer regarding the 1m fences is much appreciated! Best, Tom |
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Post by rizzoa13 on Oct 5, 2015 21:48:29 GMT -5
I'll throw a wrench in your plans for ya Tom! I have the MFA fence only and find it very very nice for rip cuts. With the clamping piece and a 1m extension i can set the fence on the right side of the blade and push the fence all the way down so it overlaps the edge of the table where you stand. Clamp the fence, clamp the camping piece and have rock solid rips. You truly dont need anything more for ripping plus then you have the MFA fence which is really useful for trimming up miter cuts.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Oct 5, 2015 22:38:20 GMT -5
I'll throw a wrench in your plans for ya Tom! I have the MFA fence only and find it very very nice for rip cuts. With the clamping piece and a 1m extension i can set the fence on the right side of the blade and push the fence all the way down so it overlaps the edge of the table where you stand. Clamp the fence, clamp the camping piece and have rock solid rips. You truly dont need anything more for ripping plus then you have the MFA fence which is really useful for trimming up miter cuts. Good to know!! I'm eager t find the best way to have as many features as possible, while still keeping the inventory slim for transport. When you are ripping on the right side of the blade, are you doing so with the extensions? If you, are you clamping to the 800mm or 1000mm extension profiles, or the side of the router table plate? |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Oct 6, 2015 2:43:35 GMT -5
Tom I know at the moment you have the universal fence. If I was you I would by the 1m fence for the mfa fence with the drop stop. For a couple of reasons 1 it future proofs any future purchases of the mfa fence and by the time you add the price of the drop stop on to the other fence then the price difference is so small it isn't worth thinking about. The only thing I'd maybe add is the clamping piece
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Oct 6, 2015 7:21:52 GMT -5
Tom I know at the moment you have the universal fence. If I was you I would by the 1m fence for the mfa fence with the drop stop. For a couple of reasons 1 it future proofs any future purchases of the mfa fence and by the time you add the price of the drop stop on to the other fence then the price difference is so small it isn't worth thinking about. The only thing I'd maybe add is the clamping piece Thanks Aaron! |
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Oct 6, 2015 8:59:30 GMT -5
Hi Tom, glad you're enjoying your new saw.
Aaron nailed it, get the 1 meter for the MFA and the clamp
Rizzoa makes a good point, I got all three fences and I have to say I'm disappointed in the rip fence. Too much play, especially when used with an extrusion. Also it's one piece, when it inevitably get dropped and bent there is no adjusting it back to square. Mafell really needs to redesign this. Maybe get the MFA before the rip fence and see how you like it?
--When you rip on the right side you are clamping to the extension profiles.
--if you want to attach an extrusion to the rip fence you will need two short 5mm cap head screws and two feather keys. These came with some thing I ordered, maybe the rip fence? Sorry I can't remember.
--No hardware is required to attach the extrusion to the MFA. I mention this because David at TW thought the 038294 clamping piece was needed, it is not. It is needed to clamp an extrusion to the far side of the table when ripping.
if at some point your thinking of getting multiple extrusions and stops I'd recommend the telescopic rod 038309. You'll need some way to support the fence guides, if you wish to stay with Mafell you'll want the leg 038401 and the support 038410. If you get the telescopic rod it comes with an adjustable stop, so no need to get the 038675 stop.
John
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Post by antihero on Jun 2, 2016 13:04:24 GMT -5
In the router adapter kit it comes with the fence plus a couple of spacer rings to reduce the size of the hole, on the table extension from 50mm to I guess 35 and 20mm and a couple of bar like things that go in the router where the guide bars on the router and are then used to fix the router to the extension table. They are only any use with the mafell routers. So if you have a router from other manufacturers you will need the adapter as well. So not completely stuck to the mafell routers. Just an added expense. The router fence connects to the table exactly the same way as the fences. When I got mine the clamping part didn't tighten enough. It was a simple fix of just removing a washer, so it would tighten more. The in and out fences move in and out and the out feed fence can be fine adjusted to 0 with the router cutter if doing the using the likes of a bull nose router bits. Extraction can be taken through the pipe. The table extension in the router can be set up so you are only using the table extension about 150mm the center of the cutter or by turning the table 180 degrees the surface of table of the saw can also be used if making rebates on doors or some other wide board. Although I am a novice, I will try to do a minor contribution as my first post in this great forum. I discovered these bar-like things and their allen screws are not just useful for the table extension, they also make the lo65ec router compatible with the "Bosch OFA FSN router guide rail adapter" so you can use the router on the mafell/bosch rails. It works with the "G" holes on the adapter. Also something else, haven't tried it in action but when ripping on the saw, one could fit the router kit on the left side of the table in order to use it's feather boards in reversed fashion to assist the cuts. Not the cheapest set of feather boards, but if you already got the kit, why not. |
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Post by howfaroutmike on Feb 4, 2017 17:08:51 GMT -5
I am a professional trim carpenter considering Erika to take the place of both job site table saw and miter saw. Are these saws used to miter trim of any length, say longer than 8'? If so, is there some kind of practical movable support accessory to enable fairly rapid and aligned support in the case of changing cutting angles and the need to make cuts on either end of the workpiece?
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Feb 5, 2017 8:43:48 GMT -5
The Erika can rip, cross cut and miter well. To support anything longer then apx three feet you'll want what Mafell calls fence guide extensions, a telescopic rod, one or more supporting legs with one or more sheet metal supports. With enough of these accessories any length is do-able. That's the good news.
The bad news, IMHO, is that the change from side to side or end to end is slow. Wrightwoodwork has done a vid documenting the switchover. If you can cut all your left miters, then all the right side miters it works ok. If you need to fit each joint individually, then not so well. YMMV. I have used deadman for support instead the extensions etc. It's a little quicker but you loose full support and the stops.
Personally, I wouldn't choose to case multiple openings with an Erika, a miter saw is quicker. The Erika isn't great for crown, you can do it, but it's not efficient. I do like my Erika for beveling wide baseboard, especially hard woods.
John
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