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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jun 11, 2015 12:45:37 GMT -5
No experience with non mafell routers on the erika. I did briefly look at how easy it would be to use the festool of1010 and it needs the adapter kit. I have to admit I actually quite like the lo65 I know it doesn't have all the bells and whistles of other routers yet for me it's perfect. It's powerful, attaches to the erika very easily, the balance is absolutely perfect in your hands. The only negative is not 110 and only 65mm plunge. I don't really use a router at work so voltage is not an issue and the only reason I can think of needing a deeper plunge is for locks which hardly ever have to do and when I do just use a cordless and auger bit
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 14, 2015 9:44:43 GMT -5
Oh ya? Try doing spring loaded soss hinges with a cordless and a dull forstner, then having the designer change their minds and switch back to traditional hinges and industrial door closers. I still managed very clean mortise despite the condition of the bit by making a series of jigs, all the more reason I was pissed at the flip flop in aesthetics. Of course their final choice was my first and insisted upon recommendation, but what do I know? I'm just a mere carpenter who isn't permitted to wear flip flops on a construction site.
Rant over
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jun 21, 2015 10:50:14 GMT -5
Question for those who have the Rip fence guide (Ref. No. 035358) - What, if anything, do you use as an auxiliary fence with this unit?
I know Joe's running an old extrusion with wood, anyone else have a suggestion?
John
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jun 22, 2015 14:04:40 GMT -5
Question for those who have the Rip fence guide (Ref. No. 035358) - What, if anything, do you use as an auxiliary fence with this unit? I know Joe's running an old extrusion with wood, anyone else have a suggestion? John Hey John The extrusion with wood is much to heavy for the rip fence , the fine adjust was not designed for that much weight . Have started to like the fence with no extension "the Euro way" , allows solid wood ripping without blade pinch from reactionary grain. The fence extensions should be delivered soon , can let you know how they work with the rip fence guide. There are subtle details all over these saws , am really glad the entire CMS system did not come to the US market. Are you ordering soon ? Attachments:
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jun 22, 2015 14:43:01 GMT -5
Joe,
Thanks for taking time to respond. Interesting that the fine adjustment can't accommodate the extrusion w/ wood. I have experience with euro style rip fences and don't doubt that the fence works fine as is, curious what other users are doing though. Love to hear how you make out with your new purchases.
Im thinking to place an order in a month or so.
John
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questa
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Post by questa on Jun 23, 2015 8:53:22 GMT -5
I have taken the long extrusion off of the MFA, flipped it on its side and attached to rip fence. Worked fine but you may want it longer/lower?... take a look at this page there is an attached video. Somewhere in his posting there is another example of a slightly different version but I could not easily find it this morning. holzwerkerblog.de/werkstatt-2/sagen/tipps-und-tricks-zum-sagen/6/ |
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Post by holmz on Jun 23, 2015 16:32:38 GMT -5
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Post by lincoln on Jun 23, 2015 17:43:16 GMT -5
That should work fine, holmz. Like a scoring blade on a panel saw - spins the opposite way to the main blade.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jun 23, 2015 17:47:57 GMT -5
On a table saw with a scoring blade the scoring blade runs backwards basically so the blade is breaking the wood fibers in to the sheet my guess is that's where idea of cutting backwards on the track saw comes from
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Post by lincoln on Jun 23, 2015 18:01:24 GMT -5
Yeah, by running 'backwards' the teeth are cutting up into the melamine/veneer/timber, instead of cutting down through the bottom of the sheet, which causes chipping.
A scoring cut that is made with the blade running forwards still works, because the angle of the teeth vs the material you're cutting has changed, due to the depth only being a few mm. Not as effective as running backwards though.
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Post by holmz on Jun 23, 2015 18:03:08 GMT -5
That should work fine, holmz. Like a scoring blade on a panel saw - spins the opposite way to the main blade. So you actually pull the MT55 towards you the on the scoring cut? By the way there was a piece on SBS last night on the oldest family business in the UK, which I turned on about 20 minute in. Some interesting timber framing before the great fire and switch to Georgian style brick homes. |
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Post by lincoln on Jun 23, 2015 18:38:12 GMT -5
No - It's designed to be pushed, as per a parting cut, but you can also pull the saw backwards, though I'm sure Mafell would advise against it. I would only do it if pushing the scoring cut was not eliminating chipping. And I'd be careful doing it.
I should point out - I was trying to explain why someone would pull the saw backwards in a scoring cut, not that you should do it.
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Post by holmz on Jun 24, 2015 3:39:06 GMT -5
No - It's designed to be pushed, as per a parting cut, but you can also pull the saw backwards, though I'm sure Mafell would advise against it. I would only do it if pushing the scoring cut was not eliminating chipping. And I'd be careful doing it. I should point out - I was trying to explain why someone would pull the saw backwards in a scoring cut, not that you should do it. It gave me a bit of a gut ache considering it. |
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jun 24, 2015 18:19:49 GMT -5
I have taken the long extrusion off of the MFA, flipped it on its side and attached to rip fence. Worked fine but you may want it longer/lower?... take a look at this page there is an attached video. Somewhere in his posting there is another example of a slightly different version but I could not easily find it this morning. holzwerkerblog.de/werkstatt-2/sagen/tipps-und-tricks-zum-sagen/6/questa, Thanks for the link, any idea what extrusion is shown in the vid? Thanks, John |
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questa
Junior Member
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Post by questa on Jun 25, 2015 9:37:41 GMT -5
Sorry cant really say. There are two long fences. I have the one for the MFA. There is some slight difference but cant say how they are different. The MFA extension would work as he has it. What I have done is use the standard MFA fence and flipped it. When it is flipped the top is now close to the blade and is only 12mm thick so a push stick can be more easily used. it is like a lego set so a lot of ways to configure something that works.  |
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