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Post by mick on Apr 19, 2015 2:29:24 GMT -5
Aaron thanks for the photos and video really good I think getting the cut up to 600 is what impressed me the most for most cuts like that I would be cutting a lot less than 2000 but good that it can be done I will have to start saving
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 19, 2015 3:56:52 GMT -5
Yep and so will I be cutting a lot less than 2m. It's just good to know. Most cut will be around the 1m mark
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Post by mick on Apr 19, 2015 5:43:32 GMT -5
Was it hard to get the slider squared up if you were taking it on an off depending on your needs would it take much time getting it square do you think
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 19, 2015 7:12:28 GMT -5
No its reasonably easy and only needs set up once the clamps attach to the v grooves so the bar is parralel with the saw. There is some nuts than be adjusted to heighten the table 1.5mm above the saw table then locked off an the same on the other clamp. Once you have the height parralel with the saw table height and locked off. You then use a straight edge sat on the sliding table and across the saw table and adjust the other nut in or out lift the sliding table up or down on the outside edges to make the straight edge parallel with saw table then lock it off and same at the other one. That's really it. The square square of the fence is the same as when on the saw itself so no additional adjustment needed there. The runners are machined so no adjustment is needed or anything can be knocked off or vibrated off. To take it off is just a case of lifting the sliding table off then loosening 2 screws that clamp the rail to the saw the other nut fir adjustment don't need touched and can be left. Then when it goes back on all is as before. I will next weekend maybe try and get a vid done and take some more pics of the screws for adjustment etc. I just judge the gaps with my eyes. If you wanted to be extra fussy feeler gauges could be used. For myself I feel it's not worth it
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Post by mick on Apr 19, 2015 11:06:54 GMT -5
Aaron thanks for the reply sounds handy would love to see more photos and video look forward to it
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Post by jonathan on Apr 19, 2015 14:54:10 GMT -5
No there isn't much left to get only the parralel guide for rips. I can manage without it for now. The saw has cost a small fortune. Yet I've being building it up over time. Which has always being the way I've bought my tools. Also in 3 weeks I'm off to germany to ligna to meet all the mafell crew Wrightwoodwork, I hope you'll shoot a few videos of any interesting demos you see over there as well...?  |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 19, 2015 15:57:13 GMT -5
Yep will do also see I can see any cool products coming out by other manufacturers as well
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 19, 2015 17:31:05 GMT -5
Here is a vid I've done using the router table extension on the erika to put a chamfer on cabinet legs. Worked great
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Apr 19, 2015 19:08:30 GMT -5
Aaron,
Thanks for the pics and the vid, very informative.
John
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Post by jonathan on Apr 21, 2015 7:04:18 GMT -5
Might have already been posted, but what's the overall length of the sliding table/rail?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 21, 2015 8:12:22 GMT -5
The rail the table slides along is 1470. With the saw set in the middle position a cross cut length of 905 is possible and with the blade at the start roughly 970. That's on the erika 7o. I think on the 85 a longer cross cut will be achievable as a longer table on the saw
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Post by checkmax on May 2, 2015 18:06:09 GMT -5
Hello Aaron
Hope the hand is recovering nicely.
Any thoughts on the 85ec? Given all the accessories you have accumulated would you do over with the larger saw?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on May 2, 2015 19:15:08 GMT -5
The hand is doing good thanks and the wounds look really clean. Not sure if I personally would jump over to the 85. It's stupid site rules uk insisting on 110 so isn't really an option for myself. The more powerful motor, longer pull stroke and deeper cut all would be nice to have. For the majority of what I do I don't need these. Mostly I work with softwoods and very occasionally hardwoods like oak. I have ripped oak at full depth of 70mm on it all I had to do was turn down the speed and take my time. Cross cuts are mostly no more than 225mm and 50mm thick. So the erika 70 covers my needs thier. Then for cuts over 330mm I now have the sliding table. which I can accomplish cuts upto 900mm. Plus I also have the kss saws and rails and the ksp85 to achieve cuts upto 85mm thick. Right enough before I decided to cut my fingers on the 85 it would be great if could cut upto 100mm as I was doing firing piece for a flat roof and was doubling up the timber and doing 2 at once. The second one I would be 15mm short still it saved on marking out some of them. If worked mainly with hardwoods and never went on sites that insist on 120 then the 85 would be nice. I can't say I've ever wished I had it or that the 70 isn't up to any task I need to do on it. The only real negative to it, is it doesn't come standard with the mfa fence or the where kit and by the time you add these extras on you aren't far off the price of the 85
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Post by checkmax on Jun 11, 2015 4:46:55 GMT -5
Here is a vid I've done using the router table extension on the erika to put a chamfer on cabinet legs. Worked great Is the chipbox worth getting? How do you like the Mafell router? Any experience with non-Mafell routers on the erika? The nice thing about having the mafell router is it's a beast of a router to have for other jobs... |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jun 11, 2015 12:29:33 GMT -5
I would actually say the chip box is worth getting I've still got the same box and keep using it its not perfect for every situation, yet for a lot things it's ideal. If doing mostly cross cuts it works great or if working outside and want something convenient to catch the waste is also ideal. If working with mdf or doing a lot of rips the dust extraction is better choice
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