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Post by naildrivingman on Sept 21, 2017 21:22:48 GMT -5
I'm interested in this saw. I invite any and all comments, suggestions, advice. I'm completely unfamiliar with pull saws.
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 21, 2017 23:38:02 GMT -5
The pull feature essentially does what a sliding miter saw does only with more control. A miter saw station wins when it comes to repeat cuts on longer stock.
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Post by holmz on Sept 22, 2017 2:21:57 GMT -5
I have only run mine for ~1/2 hour.
So a bunch of small cuts mostly.
The pull feature is easy to work, and feels safe (?).
I have been doing a bunch of narrow pieces ~2-1/2"wide and it keeps my attention when using fence.
Tom is in MSP, but he may not have one??
I was in 2 minds... and I still am.
If I was in a permanent place I would probably be looking at a Hammer, but shipping to he middle of nowhere is expensive and then reshipping is worse.
So that was a major reason for the Erika.
The other was that I occasionally can see where a mitre saw would be usefull, but never enough to need one. The Erika can do them, as can an MFT and track saw... Just the Erika is a bit more elegant and can do angle other than a 45 which is the limit of dog placement with the MFT.
Basically I have nothing to say, but I have a beer "in-me-paw" and am looking out the window at it. And the Mrs was seeming happy with the cover for her mosaic project.
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Post by bicycleclip on Sept 22, 2017 5:13:25 GMT -5
I have an Erika 85 which is functionally the same as a slightly bigger 70, but can only run on 240V.
I bought it principally because I saw one second hand in good condition and at a good price.
My MT55cc track saw is great, but I was contemplating getting an MFT table or equivalent and felt that the Erika would give me more flexibility.
I also have an LO65 router which fits in the side-table attachment.
As Ghostfist says, it fulfils Mitre saw functions well, with greater control (and feels safe to use).
To really get the most out of it, I think you have to pony up for the sliding table and stop, and various accessories. Even then, a dedicated Mitre saw is better for long stock.
I have limited space and I sometimes wonder if I'd been better off having a good band saw (like an green Inca) and compound miter saw, plus stand, instead. But I only have the luxury of thinking like that because I already have the track saw, which is brilliant.
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Sept 22, 2017 12:43:49 GMT -5
If you have not already done so, read all the threads here about the saw. Lots of great information.
John
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 22, 2017 14:53:05 GMT -5
Advantages of the erika over a conventional sliding compound saw
1 can be doing cross cuts then need to do a rip and is just simply a case of making the fence parallel with the blade
2 can cut far smaller pieces and feel much safer
3 Any angle is possible not just 45 left or right
4 no blade deflection
5 housing cuts or rebates once the blade is set it's set no relying on pressure to keep it down at a required depth
The only real weakness is if cutting long pieces and the angle changes on each one is then a sliding compound saw is easier. Saying that work flow can help in that department so if there is a load of prices at the same angle then once set cut all the prices at the same angle if possible before changing then proceed. It's not about when you fit the first pice it's about when you fit last piece
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Post by rizzoa13 on Sept 22, 2017 16:52:01 GMT -5
I use the Erika as a table saw mostly as I have a kapex for my trim and crosscutting.
What most people don't really focus on is just how good of a table saw it is. The blade doesn't deflect, the powerful motor never struggles even when ripping full depth in something like a 2x4, the vacuum port works exceptionally well, and the stand is ingenious.
The whole package folds up tight against a wall and takes minimal space. It comes out of my trailer quickly and efficianetly. I've taught my partner how to set it up and I can have it running, fully setup with all the add-ones and my incra fence, tied into an electrical panel in under 10 minutes. After that I'm good to go for the entire job.
The best part is when working with it absolutely every aspect of it seems overengineered and well thought out. I've had it for 2 years and I don't have a single complaint. The sting of the initial cost has been gone for a long time and if mine got stolen today I'd order a new one before the insurance money even came in.
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Post by naildrivingman on Sept 22, 2017 18:01:53 GMT -5
Wondering what the thoughts are on the side extension table? If the main bed were just another 10 cm wider or the blade were not in the center, I wouldn't think I need the side extension. At this point I do not plan on mounting a router as I already have a dedicated router table. I don't foresee the need for the sliding table at this time. If I take the plunge, I would rather just buy the saw and nothing else, but I fear that I wouldn't be able to fully use it without additional space to the right side.
Also wondering about the micro adjust fence. It's a lot of money, but I think trying to use the miter gauge would be a little maddening.
Thanks for all advice thus far.
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Post by rizzoa13 on Sept 22, 2017 18:25:19 GMT -5
Without the extension table your pretty limited in rip width. I adapted an incra fence to the saw so have something like 32" to the right of the blade.
I'd really suggest getting the sliding table and MFA fence. You can use the MFA fence for ripping and it's very useful for crosscutting. If you do go that route get a clamping device as it helps you make the fence super rigid for rips.
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Post by naildrivingman on Sept 23, 2017 4:32:54 GMT -5
It seems that my money would be best spent not getting the micro adjust fence and extrusion and rather invest that in the MFA and extrusion instead? I primarily rip with my table saw, but I see tremendous merit in the ability to miter/bevel as well. Agreed?
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Post by rizzoa13 on Sept 23, 2017 5:08:46 GMT -5
I have no experience with the microadjust fence. The MFA fence, an extrusion and clamp work perfectly well for me though.
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Post by naildrivingman on Sept 23, 2017 6:20:39 GMT -5
I have no experience with the microadjust fence. The MFA fence, an extrusion and clamp work perfectly well for me though. Does the MFA fit into the dovetail on the front of the saw and slide along that? There seem to be a lot of videos on how to use the MFA for miters and bevels, but I can't seem to find videos on ripping. Obviously I know how to rip, I just want to know how the MFA transforms into the traditional fence. I'm pretty sure that I will go with the router extension off to the right. Can anyone give me overall dimensions of the worksurface? It appears that the extension moves. Do the rails move with the extension or does the extension move in the rails? In other words, when the extension is tight to the saw table, do the rails stick past the extension? I ask because this may affect portability for me somewhat. |
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Post by erik on Sept 23, 2017 9:01:34 GMT -5
So, the saw table top has a dovetail extrusion running around the perimeter, the extensions rails, slide onto that key and are secured via screw tension. Those extensions also have a extruded dovetail that will accept the rip fence or mfa. I bought the longer extension rails, I think they were 1000mm, not positive, but you can confirm on a dealers webpage. If I need to transport, I pop off the rails and pop them back on when needed. Maybe (4) 10mm allen screws on each extension.
Also note, to use the rip fence on the extensions you will need an addition fence, That fence slides onto the MFA and the rip fence and again uses screw tension.
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Post by erik on Sept 23, 2017 9:04:44 GMT -5
I tried to save some money when I originally purchased the saw. I bought the sliding table and calculated that I could use that as an auxiliary table to attach a fence and increase my rip capacity. It worked but I eventually bought the rip fence.
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Post by rizzoa13 on Sept 23, 2017 13:35:51 GMT -5
There's a dovetail extrusion on the right hand side. You slide the MFA fence down it until it's even with the blade. Turn the fence so your extension is parallel to the blade and then use the slide on the MFA to set distance from the blade. Tighten down the MFA and then tighten down the additional clamp near the front of the saw where you stand.
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