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Jan 6, 2014 23:08:10 GMT -5
Post by bavanor on Jan 6, 2014 23:08:10 GMT -5
If you were going to join 2 inch thick walnut boards together into one big slab, what would you rather use. The festool XL df700 domino or the mafell dd40P?
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Jan 6, 2014 23:30:46 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jan 6, 2014 23:30:46 GMT -5
I own neither & want both. Im as interested as you are to see responses on this one.
I am guessing both would be more than enough for this application. Some people use only glue & clamps for this and others biscuits (mainly for alignment only) and glue. Joinery gets tricky when butting long grain to end grain but is really strong on these long grain to long grain applications. I built a walnut table out of 8/4 walnut years ago using biscuits and glue and it has never had even slight issues. I believe the need for real joinery comes in other connections like the stile & rail joints on exterior doors where weather fluctuations cause movement and stress the connections.
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Jan 7, 2014 10:18:42 GMT -5
Post by bavanor on Jan 7, 2014 10:18:42 GMT -5
This application will have some stress because of the installation. It will have a cantilever of 9 to 13 inches. I will be joining three boards together to equal approximately 20 inches.
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Jan 7, 2014 10:55:06 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Jan 7, 2014 10:55:06 GMT -5
I've used Dominos in the Past but for work thats usually much thicker. The long Grain will be sufficient to hold a joint like that so you really aren't entirely counting on the dowel or the floating tenon. The only real advantage to the Domino is being able to set one side tight and the other loose so if your off a bit it still goes to gather easy. Although if you use the Template rail with Mafell Doweler it will work just fine! I have both and would grab the Doweler and Template. I prefer using the Doweler and seem to be more proficient with it. http://instagram.com/p/e0_bCxun9V
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 7, 2014 13:28:30 GMT -5
Currently I only own a Domino 500 and there's a lot of fiddling with it to get it right IMO. A lot of different settings and plastic accessories. The very nature of how a domino cuts a mortise can cause skating if you're not careful, but I suppose you have to be paying attention to any tool and understand its nature in order for it to work properly. Out of the two Domino's on the market I feel the better machine is the 700, not that I own one. But for ultimate speed and versatility, the dd40 tops the lot. Wider range of cutters, dowels are cheap, and that guide system for it seems unbeatable. With the dd40 and guides you can join case work, furniture, windows and doors, plus make shelf pins for 32mm cabinetry. You're not going to be as proficient using the domino, I find it more of a ballet tool.
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Jan 7, 2014 15:26:09 GMT -5
Post by christoph on Jan 7, 2014 15:26:09 GMT -5
Hi MU's :-) I only own the DD40p since few weeks and never used the Dominos. In the last few days i did about 1000 holes with it and i must say, i get used to it. With a little "routine" you are really fast with the machine. You can make kind of a dowel-line without using the template for very very fast joining 2 parts together without loosing any precision. Its done by starting at one side of a panel, drilling 2 holes, positioning one of the positioning pins in the second hole, drilling the next holes and so on. With a little attention its very easy to get a very precise connection! Since the last little project i am also more used to the template and i have to say its a good idea to watch a few youtube vids on how to use it with all of its possibilities. But i also have to say that the short template is good for shorter materials, but i missed the 1,6m template-extension very soon. So thats one of the next thing i'll buy! While doing 12mm+ dowels and the wood gets harder or if you hit a knot or do end-grain drilling i personal think the "p" with a little more power isn't the wrong choice. I read somewhere, that the DD-Drills often got destroyed by overheating and this is because the drilling is done not fast enough. So i push my machine relatively fast in the workpiece and that works just fine for me, no overheating until now! Mafell says the DD40"p" is for drills with 5-16mm only but my dealer said you can also use the smaller drills as the bore-diameter is naturally the same on both machines! EDIT: by the way, with my star mix vac and the 27mm hose i have nearly no dust even if i drill in "turbo mode" (2 holes every 5 seconds or faster, no joke )
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Jan 7, 2014 15:38:56 GMT -5
Post by christoph on Jan 7, 2014 15:38:56 GMT -5
One more thing: i often read that system with a tight hole and the other holes loose as an advantage of the domino system and i understand that.
But it should be also possible with the DD40 cause if you drill 2 holes and reposition the machine just 1 mm (or less) and drill again, the drills doesn't slide into the "old" holes. As result you get wider holes.
Ok perhaps little more complicated as you have to do this a few times on every pair of holes depending on how wide the holes should get, but not impossible.
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Jan 7, 2014 15:41:24 GMT -5
Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 7, 2014 15:41:24 GMT -5
I've not used mine as much as I would like but I find it a joy to use nice and simple no faffing about there is a learning curve. It all comes down to practice I found the same as Christopher that for the larger bits a quick push works better than a slow push
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Jan 8, 2014 11:17:15 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Jan 8, 2014 11:17:15 GMT -5
No doubt its a sweet machine and more versatile than any other.
The template guide is really simple to use but like Chris mentioned Its easy without the Template. I often just take the two boards that are to be joined and mark the lines without measuring. Then I drill using the tool only. I can do this down a board and have everything fit nicely. Once your familiar with the tool the template is used less and less.
One of the key advantages of the DD40 is how flush your joints get. Its really amazing how perfect everything comes together.
In the future I'm considering some diamond cutters for my favorite size pins(8mm and 5mm). I think this would be the best option to avoid heat and keep things sharp.
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Jan 28, 2014 0:15:20 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jan 28, 2014 0:15:20 GMT -5
I am not sure how to ask this question without being a little bit vague. Where does the DD40 max out with even the largest available dowels…at what point do you start to feel a bit uncomfortable?
Beds? Gates? Interior doors? Exterior doors? One of the best exterior door builders in my area uses wedged dowel joinery in their huge exterior doors (doors 4'x8' & 2 1/4" thick with engineered cores) The dowel appears to be cut part way through with a band saw then a small wedge pounded into the slit then trimmed & sanded smooth.
I am now thinking about the subject of portable joinery again. Looked at the large domino over the weekend…it's huge.
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Jan 28, 2014 4:58:46 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 28, 2014 4:58:46 GMT -5
I've made a couple of garage doors at the beginning of winter as far as I know it hasn't moved a bit I made a basic frame then overlaid with linning boards which also add a bracing element to the door construction and it was the most rubbish wood you could use. I think traditional mortise and tenon joints on there own are properly better, but with modern glued well seasoned timber at the right Mc then dowels or domino's are in most cases satisfactory
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Jan 28, 2014 12:49:23 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Jan 28, 2014 12:49:23 GMT -5
If I were using the Domino 700 for really big doors I would consider multiple tenons or making larger tenons and cutting a larger hole with the 700. Its important to remember that size is only part of the solution. Depth is also important especially with dowels. The strongest glue point is in long grain material and this is increased in part by depth.
I must admit. Earlier this week I made a decent size table and grabbed the Domino but knowing that the joinery had to be precise and didn't want to fight the domino I used the DD40 instead.
I know Mafell believes the larger DD40P dowel is adequate for doors but I haven't seen it used in that application.
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Jan 28, 2014 13:35:59 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 28, 2014 13:35:59 GMT -5
Maybe need to do an experiment comparing the different joint types and then test to destruction just need to work out. The door I have made in the projects had being made with dowels it hasn't moved or twisted since being made just need to see how it stand up over time.
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Jan 28, 2014 21:51:25 GMT -5
Post by 7 on Jan 28, 2014 21:51:25 GMT -5
Have you guys heard of "wedged dowel joinery" as I mentioned above. A quick web search will show a bunch of pictures. Couldn't hurt to add the wedge…just wonder how much it would help. It seems to me it would make it nearly impossible for something to separate. Really the same concept used to connect hammer heads to wood handled hammers but the wood on wood should grab better than wood to metal.
I know my thinking is odd but it's a lot more fun for me to buy a cool saw than a joining tool. Not sure why.
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Jan 28, 2014 22:23:15 GMT -5
Post by jalvis on Jan 28, 2014 22:23:15 GMT -5
Wedged dowel. Thats got me thinking. I might test a few and see how they hold up.
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