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Post by jalvis on Sept 18, 2013 4:21:05 GMT -5
Thats a great rendition. I really appreciate all the photos and can see the value in the cut quality. I too am interested in the Cunex blades and hope when you get them in the future to post the results.
Has anyone considered welding some blades together themselves? Considering the cost it seems like a simple task.
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Post by jonathan on Sept 18, 2013 4:45:37 GMT -5
They aren't just welded together, the back of a Cunex W1 blade is also machined to be perfectly flat to guarantee 90°.
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Post by 7 on Sept 18, 2013 21:23:00 GMT -5
Thats a great rendition. I really appreciate all the photos and can see the value in the cut quality. I too am interested in the Cunex blades and hope when you get them in the future to post the results. Has anyone considered welding some blades together themselves? Considering the cost it seems like a simple task. The W1 blades have a unique top that varies from the standard T-shank. I'll post a picture, point being I am not sure if a different double blade would clamp. I'll try shoving two regular blades in there and see if it clamps down on them. That would make the blade really ridged which seems to be the biggest advantage of the W1 blade. I actually do have some of the cunex blades, I was only saying in the post that I wasn't nice enough to just do random tests for the forum but when I am cutting something critical like pergola purlins in the near future using the blade I will for sure post pictures.
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Post by 7 on Sept 18, 2013 22:00:04 GMT -5
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 18, 2013 23:28:50 GMT -5
7 that is an awesome comparison. I might have to put one of these on order sooner than I thought...
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Sept 20, 2013 18:01:20 GMT -5
Great post and comparison!!! Thanks for the close-ups of the cut quality. I opted to buy the Carvex, mainly becuase I really need to cut big circles and while it might seem nuts to spend that much on a saw for circle cutting ability, it saves my back from using a bandsaw to cut slabs and a jigsaw is much better than a router. So I am happy. However, I still like this P1CC and think it is a thing of beauty. Do you have any pics with a square to show the sqaureness of cut? Have you been able to try the saw with other types of jigsw blades (Bosch or other brand)? It is fascinating that there is not blade support built in, but that the machine does not need it based on the clamping.
Scot
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Post by woodie on Sept 20, 2013 20:59:43 GMT -5
Great post and comparison!!! Thanks for the close-ups of the cut quality. I opted to buy the Carvex, mainly becuase I really need to cut big circles and while it might seem nuts to spend that much on a saw for circle cutting ability, it saves my back from using a bandsaw to cut slabs and a jigsaw is much better than a router. So I am happy. However, I still like this P1CC and think it is a thing of beauty. Do you have any pics with a square to show the sqaureness of cut? Have you been able to try the saw with other types of jigsw blades (Bosch or other brand)? It is fascinating that there is not blade support built in, but that the machine does not need it based on the clamping. Scot On the previous page I think 7 mentioned doing all of his test cuts with Bosch blades.
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Post by 7 on Sept 22, 2013 13:45:14 GMT -5
yes all the cuts were with a bosch blade. Before buying the saw the "other blades" besides the w1 cunex was a big question in my mind so I did all cuts with a bosch instead of the mafell ones that I ordered with the saw. The cuts are only visually quite square but there is definitely some runout with the standard blade that is easy to see with a square on it.
It seems the main advantages of this saw are the motor strength, blade clamping without guides keeps the blade from heating and dulling really fast, and that you can use a W1 blade for cuts where perfectly square is a must. For most of my work the standard blades will cut square enough especially considering the fact that I won't really be cutting curves in 4x4 posts. Reg blades should be fine for up to 2" material in rough fir or cedar.
Scot- I think another way the P1cc gets a way with not built in blade support- the foot of the saw seems to be a lot closer to the saw body so there is not as much room between the foot and the blade for it to go very far stray.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Sept 27, 2013 23:43:41 GMT -5
yes all the cuts were with a bosch blade. Before buying the saw the "other blades" besides the w1 cunex was a big question in my mind so I did all cuts with a bosch instead of the mafell ones that I ordered with the saw. The cuts are only visually quite square but there is definitely some runout with the standard blade that is easy to see with a square on it. It seems the main advantages of this saw are the motor strength, blade clamping without guides keeps the blade from heating and dulling really fast, and that you can use a W1 blade for cuts where perfectly square is a must. For most of my work the standard blades will cut square enough especially considering the fact that I won't really be cutting curves in 4x4 posts. Reg blades should be fine for up to 2" material in rough fir or cedar. Scot- I think another way the P1cc gets a way with not built in blade support- the foot of the saw seems to be a lot closer to the saw body so there is not as much room between the foot and the blade for it to go very far stray. Thanks for your review, 7. Bosch makes some thicker blades that are .07 inches thick that would probably give you good results as would the Festool blades for the Carvex or Trion labeled.
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Post by 7 on Sept 28, 2013 22:10:07 GMT -5
Thanks Scot. I had no idea that Bosch made thicker blades. I also planned on getting a few Festool blades just to compare but didn't know they were thicker also. I will get some of each and see how they do. Good bit of information.
The P1cc has plenty of power so it seems like the thicker blades would be perfect for those deep cuts. I need to make a few really simple corbels out of 8/4 cherry which I plan on using the w1 blade on. I will try to remember to post a few pictures of them once I am done.
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Post by bavanor on Oct 1, 2013 7:30:30 GMT -5
I know this thread in comparing to the car ex but what about the festool trion jigsaw? How is the comparison there, especially when I can get the trion for $265 right now? I am trying to decide which jigsaw to go with, and I want it to last for a while.
currently I am building my house and will be using the jigsaw for cabinetry, conc counter top forms, awnings and doing some limited metal cutting too.
thank you for any responses,
aaron
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Post by jonathan on Oct 1, 2013 8:23:24 GMT -5
Bavanor, out of the two, I'd actually go for the Trion. I am totally not convinced by the Carvex.
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Post by GhostFist on Oct 1, 2013 9:12:19 GMT -5
I own a trion and is a solid jigsaw. If you don't need the extra features of the mafell, then ya,trion is a great choice especially for the price. One thing to check out with the Trion is it's visibility as is a problem for some especially when using the dust shroud. The Trion is a solid built machine though and I think you'll be happy with it.
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Post by woodie on Oct 1, 2013 9:26:45 GMT -5
If you're comparing Carvex to Trion, I think the Trion may be the better option. It seems like Festool took 1 step forward and 3 back with the Carvex.
The primary complaints I've heard with the Trion are blade/cut-line visibility and having to adjust the blade guides (properly). You loose the precision 90 degree base with the Trion but you get a more usable angle base with it.
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Post by bavanor on Oct 1, 2013 10:31:50 GMT -5
I was comparing trion vs mafell. I have read to many problems about carvex to go with it.
thanks everybody for replies. I probably will go with the trion because of the cost difference.
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