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Post by jonathan on Jan 11, 2015 18:12:31 GMT -5
After watching this again fullscreen and upon further inspection I've gotta say you were right Jalvis, there is a vacuum attached during the whole recording.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Jan 11, 2015 19:04:05 GMT -5
After watching this again fullscreen and upon further inspection I've gotta say you were right Jalvis, there is a vacuum attached during the whole recording. It's tough to tell, but does it look like a relatively narrow hose? It almost looks to me like they're using a D27 hose, at most a D36. For my bench top tools (miter saw, table saw, etc...) I really prefer to use at least a D36, if not a D50 hose. I have to laugh a bit sometimes watching company reps demonstrating tools. They tend to rush things, and you can often tell they don't handle the tools on a daily basis. They often overlook simple best practices, such as making sure they have a fresh bag in the dust extractor, use the appropriate sized hose, use an appropriate feed rate, or even keep a clean work space. I feel like they often focus on how fast a tool can work, versus how refined it is or how effective the dust collection can be. That being said, even if the dust collection (or lack thereof) we see in the video is the best the Erika can muster, it's still better than my Bosch  |
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jan 13, 2015 18:31:20 GMT -5
Jonathan,
Thanks for posting that. One of the things that surprised me was the fence on the left side, left handed operator maybe?
John
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Jan 13, 2015 19:23:30 GMT -5
Jonathan, Thanks for posting that. One of the things that surprised me was the fence on the left side, left handed operator maybe? John John, mounting the fence on the left seems to be the norm for these pull-push saws, both the Mafell Erika as well as the Festool Precisio saws. I think the idea is that for cross cuts, you would hold the work against the fence with your left hand, and operate the power button and pull the saw with your right hand, which would make sense for most righties. From what I've seen, I think the idea is that if you are mostly cross cutting you'd mount the fence on the left side, rotating it 90 degrees for the occasional rip. That being said, there are a few videos showing the MFA fence on the right side, set up for ripping, and the dedicated ripping fence is designed just for the right side. I auditioned a Festool TS-75 insert for my CMS about a year ago. Granted, it wasn't quite the same, but with the sliding table it was close. I adapted pretty quickly to ripping on the left side of the blade, but it was definitely pretty awkward at first. The nice thing is that it appears that the fences can be moved from right side to left side very quickly, allowing the user to position the fence in the optimal position for the task at hand.... |
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jan 13, 2015 21:11:17 GMT -5
Thanks Tom,
I have a fair bit of experience with sliders so cross cutting on the left side makes perfect sense to me, (especially with the push/pull function for a right handed user) as does ripping a bevel. I watched the vid 2X and both times the rest of the operations done on the left struck me as odd. Wasn't sure if it was for efficiency, inexperience, left hand dominance, some euro technique, or if I've become too set in my ways.
John
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Post by jonathan on Jan 13, 2015 22:20:41 GMT -5
The Erika was not designed as a full sized slider to break down full size sheet goods. It was designed for jobsite use and fine furniture builders. There is a sliding table, table extensions and cast iron rip fence available so the Erika can be used in the exact same fashion as a full size sliding table saw (be it with more moderately sized workpieces). The cross-cut capacity from the factory with the slider is around the 900mm mark I believe.
If you don't want to make that initial extra investment for all those accessories, you can simply use the MFA perfectly fine for everything. Mount and use it wherever and how it suits you best.
Full size sheet goods can be broken down, of course. But I think the idea is more along the lines of that you first break down sheets roughly to size with a track or circular saw and then take those pieces to the Erika for final precision cutting. The pull function then allows you for very fast and safe precision operations on small pieces where you can clamp or hold your workpiece and pull the blade through, rather than having to move your hands and workpiece over the blade.
The above video more or less shows the workflow. Breaking down with track/circular saw and then finish on the table saw.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 14, 2015 0:23:54 GMT -5
When I had the demo of the erika the guy from mafell ripped on the left side of the blade as well. One of the other people commented on it. The reason is basically for efficiency and saves doing a cross cut where the fence is on the left the moving to the right to rip. You do get used to it. I will rip on the left if I'm mostly doing cross cuts and the occasional rip. If I'm doing mostly rips I still prefer the right hand side
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jan 14, 2015 18:36:02 GMT -5
Thanks guys.
John
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 28, 2015 16:14:06 GMT -5
Here is a vid I have done using the erika and a a good old fashioned coping saw to cut the internal scribe in a bay window at splayed angle of 45 degrees. When doing splayed internal angles I prefer to have the cuts still scribed rather than just mitred internally. Apart from being the correct way to do the job. The first and main reason is if there's any shrinkage or movement with just the joints mitred, you will end up with an open joint that is visible. Where with a scribed joint if there is any movement there is still no movement that is visible. The reason is because the skirting on the back wall goes all the way through, then the piece that is scribed into it. So when the timber shrinks there is still skirting there, do you never have a visible gap opening up as can happen when the joint is mitred. Another reason is if the walls are less than perfect with the taping. Then I find that with a scribe I can get away with more from the tapers. Where if using a mitre I can not get away with the same imperfections. As in imperfections show up in the joint. Then I to mess about planing the joint to get it to fit.
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