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Post by bicycleclip on Jan 20, 2018 4:44:10 GMT -5
Does the 18V Makita fit the OFA 32 baseplate?
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Post by henrun on Jan 20, 2018 7:53:48 GMT -5
Not sure, could have checked as I just came back from the shop!
Will check on Monday when I am back in the shop.
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reno
New Member
Posts: 32
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Post by reno on Jan 20, 2018 16:16:48 GMT -5
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Post by holmz on Jan 20, 2018 20:26:05 GMT -5
... I route out port vents for speakers no problems with the Makita so I am super pleased. ... What is your wisdom/experience on passive radiator subwoofers?
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Post by bicycleclip on Jan 21, 2018 8:46:52 GMT -5
I figured that since the 18V Makita hasn’t been around for more than a few months, it’s probably not made it to those compatibility guides yet.
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Post by henrun on Jan 21, 2018 14:01:33 GMT -5
... I route out port vents for speakers no problems with the Makita so I am super pleased. ... What is your wisdom/experience on passive radiator subwoofers? In short I am not a fan. Not that they are bad - it's just that there are better solutions I think, so PR Subs have never done it for me. Physical placement, general properties and number of subwoofers have a much higher impact on final soundstage and in-room performance. A single Sub is almost never capable of rendering an acceptable output regardless of room placement. Adding another opens up a multitude of arrangements for those pesky room acoustics to be tamed and by having four you can almost certainly tackle and solve even poor room acoustics (not going into taming the higher frequencies, long decay, any need for diffusion or frequency specific absorption or parallel surfaces needing attention). A PRS integrated into the main speaker will often have a very limited impact on overall room acoustics - it might even turn out to be a quite negative impact rendering the whole point of it moot. If they are integrated into the speaker you can't physically move them around and you cannot place them where they need to be in relation to the room acoustics and/or main speakers. Incorporated into the main speaker they have no flexibility and might be a culprit more than a solution. Add to that the possibility that the main speaker itself might not be a very good overall design and I can make the point that Subwoofers should always be considered in pairs - and as separate entities to a well performing main speaker and having a specific active filter to enable a seamless transition. As I understand it some HiFi people in general attest PR Subs to be more "articulate" than ported Sub's. But that only goes for a poorly designed ported Subwoofer - which perhaps too many Subwoofers are. One of the main problems is that Subwoofers are generally bought or configured into a system as a lone (x1) unit instead of a pair or better yet, four. Why the market has been so slow - or the speaker companies rather - is still a mystery to me. Some of the High End speaker mfgs have started their journey but man, are they slow... The idea of a single pair of "do-it-all" speakers is a neat one but it most often falls flat on the premise that a speaker would have to function as intended under a very wide variety of listening environments with regards to room size, wall materials, ceiling height, distance to the listener and a multitude of parameters beyond the control of the manufacturer who can really only design a speaker for _one_ specific listening environment and that environment is usually never found outside of a speaker design laboratory. There is no "normal" in this case. My speakers are designed with a given set of parameters needed to fulfil their potential in terms of placement and room acoustic treatment. They don't know where they are so I have to accommodate them. Their design is taking into account near wall placement and a variable room treatment based on the actual room they end up in. They are also dependant on at least two bass modules as the output is cut off around 80Hz for the main speakers (which help with placement too) and the bass management is tuned into the room charecteristics giving a full and seamless soundstage in a wide listening position - a.k.a very large sweetspot. The cut off point lowers the strain/distortion on the main speakers, boosts overall system sensitivity and lowers system distortion by distributing the load across speakers and membrane surface area simply meaning I can play very loud with a very minimal distortion. This means well above the THX norm for a movie theatre across the frequencey range with a few dB to spare in my listening environment. One amp is running the low end, one amp is running the high end. The Crossover filter is analogue and adjusts for cut off, level, Q for room compensation to tailor the low end to the room and the transition to the cut off point. It works so well I have hardly changed anything since acquiring the current setup back in around 2005. There is simply no need for more than having high transparency/low distortion. After building a few studios I do know what I can improve upon but the cost and the need to physically change the room is beyond what I am willing to spend for a very low return of investment. I had a slightly larger but even more elegant solution before and at times I miss it but my current set up can be built upon whereas the previous solution was a "permanent" fixed solution addressing the same room correction in a very different manner.
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Post by holmz on Jan 22, 2018 4:40:50 GMT -5
Yeah I was thinking about a passive in a car/truck. Been picking up second hand gear and make some bookshelf boxes to work out placement in the cabin of the truck. Not even sure I have room for much of a sub yet, but I am headed towards a three-way in the dash of the thing with active cross overs and 6-amp channels. mid/tweet: I was looking at a transmission line for the house... they can get large. Or a Low Shelf Extension (LSE) which is usually a ported box with the port tuned down ~ 16 to 20 Hz. And then also the miniDSP like the DDRC-88A.
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Post by henrun on Jan 27, 2018 15:51:26 GMT -5
bicycleclip: sorry it took so long to get back with a reply. The Bosch OFA/FSN does not fit the Makita 18V router. It might be possible to "make it fit". I might look into it but my general use for the Makita is freehand, bearing guided bits and "one-off" templates. It would be nice to fit it to the OFA32, the more the merrier. holmz: I see - for making some more oomph in the truck it seems a good idea. I am really no expert when it comes to coupling subs to a car interior but in a way it is a bit more forgiving, it is not a HiFi environment to begin with anyway. I have a factory sub in my Forester (side wall in the back trunk) and it does a very good job at filling out the bottom end. I have the extra tweeters on the dashboard panel as well and on good recordings it does sound quite alright. Unfortunately most radio stations are compressed and sound rather drab but we do have a few quality broadcasting stations. Let me know how your truck pans out! Looks cool.
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Post by bicycleclip on Jan 27, 2018 17:08:13 GMT -5
bicycleclip: sorry it took so long to get back with a reply. The Bosch OFA/FSN does not fit the Makita 18V router. It might be possible to "make it fit". I might look into it but my general use for the Makita is freehand, bearing guided bits and "one-off" templates. It would be nice to fit it to the OFA32, the more the merrier. Henrun thanks for looking. I was seriously wondering about getting the Makita 18V as I’m already on the Makita platform. Looked at the Bosch GKF 12 for ditto reasons. Both relatively light and ergonomic trimmer routers. Then I got scared. I didn’t want to become like one of these guys that own fourteen routers (one set up for every task as I read somewhere). Another fence, dust hose, containers and accesories that would tske space I can barely afford to spare in my small shed. So while waiting for your reply it occured to me that I’m not getting the most use out of my LO65. By sticking it into a router table I’d probably be able to perform as many trimming functions that I would with a handheld, and possibly some more. So I’ve ordered the router extension and adapter kit for my Erika. I’ll see how far I manage with it.
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Post by aas on Jan 28, 2018 0:27:55 GMT -5
I have the Makita RT0700 plunge base fitted on the Bosch OFA/FSN base. The plunge base can of course take the 18v router body.
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Post by yetihunter on Jan 28, 2018 1:13:40 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone's input, I'm picking up an Of2200 next week (unless something gets in the way..like becoming dead). I am on the opposite end of the spectrum with the routers and the routing and the Henrik. Mostly to overcompensate for many things involving toxic masculinity. :0 I did own an MFK700, though. Super great tool. Alas, it is a laminate trimmer, and I don't do that sort of thing. For the record, I'll take, I took, will always clutch the 1010 over those small "palm routers". It's just a personal taste thing.
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Post by henrun on Jan 31, 2018 14:29:36 GMT -5
bicycleclip: sorry it took so long to get back with a reply. The Bosch OFA/FSN does not fit the Makita 18V router. It might be possible to "make it fit". I might look into it but my general use for the Makita is freehand, bearing guided bits and "one-off" templates. It would be nice to fit it to the OFA32, the more the merrier. Henrun thanks for looking. I was seriously wondering about getting the Makita 18V as I’m already on the Makita platform. Looked at the Bosch GKF 12 for ditto reasons. Both relatively light and ergonomic trimmer routers. Then I got scared. I didn’t want to become like one of these guys that own fourteen routers (one set up for every task as I read somewhere). Another fence, dust hose, containers and accesories that would tske space I can barely afford to spare in my small shed. So while waiting for your reply it occured to me that I’m not getting the most use out of my LO65. By sticking it into a router table I’d probably be able to perform as many trimming functions that I would with a handheld, and possibly some more. So I’ve ordered the router extension and adapter kit for my Erika. I’ll see how far I manage with it. I feel your angst - at one point I was "hoarding" mid tier routers and they all ended up seeing intermittent use. All of them were good to excellent but in the long run I realised that my OF1010 was only used once every fourteen/fifteen months (!) on average and I had all the bells and whistles for it. I decided there was no point keeping it. My Virutex was great but the Makita replaced it performing the same tasks with the same power and ease/weight and added the cordless bliss. The Makita also replaced one of my Festool OFK500's and could possibly have replaced the other one too - but since I have six or seven OFK proprietary router bits and they do last a while I decided it would be plain stupid to sell it off too. My Bosch GMF1400 and 1600 routers share the workload for larger routing tasks and sometimes they sit idle for quite some time but when it is time they both get a workout and they share most add ons so keeping the GMF1400 as a "dedicated" ball bearing / router was an easy decision, it can take a beating. I have grown fond of the Bosch routers over the last couple of years. I was almost biting the bullet on a Festool OF2020 to replace them both but sobered up and realised it could not really replace them and once I am in the OF2020 territory there is a Digital Felder with outrigger a few steps from my workbench... Sticking the LO65 in a router table seems a great idea. I do have to put in a plug for the Makita as it is a go-anywhere router that is easy to operate and with the plunge base and the standard base I have done so much routing with it already and it is currently at the top of the heap. Cordless is simply too nice when you feel like rounding over something large and it is at the other end of the workshop... If you are on the platform and have a 5Ah battery or two you will enjoy it. I am now "down to" four hand held routers and I guess I could make do with three. Two would be too much of a compromise. And I don't even consider myself a "router guy".
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Post by henrun on Jan 31, 2018 14:37:46 GMT -5
Thanks to everyone's input, I'm picking up an Of2200 next week (unless something gets in the way..like becoming dead). I am on the opposite end of the spectrum with the routers and the routing and the Henrik. Mostly to overcompensate for many things involving toxic masculinity. :0 I did own an MFK700, though. Super great tool. Alas, it is a laminate trimmer, and I don't do that sort of thing. For the record, I'll take, I took, will always clutch the 1010 over those small "palm routers". It's just a personal taste thing. I have a colleague that has the MFK700 - great unit - too much accessories for me though, and a little too limited for the overall cost. The feel of the OF1010 is superb and second to none - it was just that I didn't have enough use for it. The Makita has not the same feel to it but I do route hinges and small stuff from time to time and the Makita and the Virutex I had are great in their simplicity. As an edge router the balance point of the Makita is higher than the OFK500 (which is damn near perfect) but after a while you get used to it and I hold it quite low. I am hoping that Festool will eventually release the MFK700 and or the OFK500 with them Ergo 18V batteries and corded option. They have no such plans as of now but I helped sow a little seed when Frank Jaksch from Festool was over for a Demo day a few months back... He did reveal that the Ergo batteries has made them rethink a lot and that they feel they have plenty of options for the future. I hope they don't drag their feet as they usually do.
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Post by henrun on Jan 31, 2018 14:42:06 GMT -5
I have the Makita RT0700 plunge base fitted on the Bosch OFA/FSN base. The plunge base can of course take the 18v router body. Yes, I did a side order of two extra bases (plunge and tilt) and the RT0700 accessories are quite cheap. Plunge base lock lever is crap so I had to modify it with a longer lever but all in all the system is pretty good and very cost effective. The Makita 18V router does feel more solid than the RT0700. A colleague has three-four of the RT0700 with different router bits and one Virutex. When he has his high volume work he is happy with the arrangement and run them quite hard.
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Post by bicycleclip on Jan 31, 2018 15:37:39 GMT -5
Henrun, I think you’re right, I probably should get the Mak 18V too, because of all the reasons you’ve given, and plus, the other is in the table right? The other thing that’s starting to sway me is that it looks like Frank Cochrane is making a custom aluminium base for it. I didn’t like the look of the stock Mak base and preferred the Bosch GKF 12 for the reason that it’s more elongated and therefore stable. But if Cochrane goes ahead and makes a base, it would solve that problem for me. Concept picture attached - he’s on the Facebook Mafell Talk Group (or PM me for his email address). I bought one of his Mafell rail squares and it’s top notch. BTW I’ve got a 5ah Mak battery, so it definitely makes more sense than going the Bosch 12 V route, I have a 12 V battery but it’s for a laser level and I could see it getting worn out with router use.
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