|
Post by holmz on Sept 26, 2015 6:54:21 GMT -5
We I took sone 230x40 gluelam ad cut a 45 on the ends for a ramp. Then I took to it with the Bisaiguë to make the angle shallower. One can get a sweat going if they are not careful. It goes through Pine/gluelam OK though.
|
|
|
Post by Red on Sept 26, 2015 11:59:44 GMT -5
That's great, Holmz. Having never really tried it, I was wondering how a chisel edge would work and/or hold up against a glulam product. How's the business edge of the Bisaiguë looking after that job?
|
|
|
Post by holmz on Sept 26, 2015 17:30:43 GMT -5
I have no electron microscope at home, but the whole end is a combination of mirror chrome look with blond wood dust. It generates some force, so I need some ponies. I clamped the wood to a trailer, and there is a stack of freeto sized chips in the road.
|
|
|
Post by Red on Sept 29, 2015 16:34:21 GMT -5
I wasn't thinking about the molecular level, Holmz. Do you see any chips in the cutting edge via the naked eye?
|
|
|
Post by holmz on Sept 30, 2015 8:44:51 GMT -5
No Red, it looks good. Pretty sharp, but taking over sized fretoe chips requires some pushing.
|
|
|
Post by charley1968 on Nov 5, 2015 11:43:29 GMT -5
I've bench chisels up to 26mm. These are as usable as tf-chisels or am i overlooking something?
|
|
|
Post by Red on Nov 5, 2015 12:00:07 GMT -5
I've bench chisels up to 26mm. These are as usable as tf-chisels or am i overlooking something? 26mm is just over 1-inch, Charley. Generally speaking, hardwood joinery is often 1.5-inches thick...so when you're paring a mortise, for example, a 1.5-inch framing chisel is used. By the way, timber framing chisels are usually quite a bit longer than normal bench chisels (mine are 17.5-inches long). This gives the joint cutter leverage when waste material is being removed and depth when needed, as in the mortise finishing I just mentioned.
|
|
|
Post by charley1968 on Nov 5, 2015 12:13:10 GMT -5
So they are longer. Is the blade geometry different from bench chisels?
|
|
|
Post by Red on Nov 5, 2015 12:20:37 GMT -5
So they are longer. Is the blade geometry different from bench chisels? The major difference is that a "normal" framing chisel has a cutting edge that's 1.5-inches wide (or wider) and the steel section is much longer. There's much more mass in my TF chisels than there are in my bench chisels. Put simply, they're bigger in every aspect...even the handles are longer.
I know that you're trying to learn, Charley, so keep the questions coming. I love the idea of new people being interested in the old world craft of timber framing.
Barr Quarton Framing Chisel:

![]()
|
|
|
Post by charley1968 on Nov 5, 2015 13:24:50 GMT -5
Holy macarel, them chisels ain't cheap! A collection of chisels would be 1'', 1,5'', 2''?
|
|
|
Post by charley1968 on Nov 5, 2015 13:26:03 GMT -5
Is there an additional tang inside the sleeve?
|
|
|
Post by Red on Nov 5, 2015 23:26:09 GMT -5
Is there an additional tang inside the sleeve? This type of framing chisel is known as a socket chisel, Charley, because the handle is formed and fitted into the socket end of the steel. There is no tang needed for this particular type of chisel.
|
|
|
Post by holmz on Nov 6, 2015 4:20:44 GMT -5
Holy mackerel, them chisels ain't cheap! A collection of chisels would be 1'', 1,5'', 2''? And Holy Lutefisk on the Neeman versions.
|
|
|
Post by snekkerbuse on Aug 31, 2018 14:45:17 GMT -5
Lutefisk, in Central Australia?
|
|
|
Post by holmz on Sept 1, 2018 5:48:05 GMT -5
Oof dah...
|
|