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Post by MrToolJunkie on Jun 4, 2015 0:40:58 GMT -5
I do some regular maintenance of a similar order on my 300. Still out of the box you expect it in proper working order Exactly - these tools are too expensive not to work right out of the box. |
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bb
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Post by bb on Jun 4, 2015 8:46:19 GMT -5
I do some regular maintenance of a similar order on my 300. Still out of the box you expect it in proper working order Exactly - these tools are too expensive not to work right out of the box. I agree with the premise, but where do you draw the line. I could have sent the saw back to Timberwolf. That would have cost them money and taken who knows how long for me to get the saw back. 10 minutes and I believe I fixed the the issue. That seemed like the faster and easier route. Sure it would have been better if it was perfect out of the box. It wasn't. You play the hand you're dealt. I'm not opposed to continue talking about the depth adjustment issue I had, but I'd rather get back to some of the other questions I posed earlier in this thread. The 160 and 110 rails, can anyone confirm they can rip and 8' sheet with the KSS 400, anyone cutting aluminum or other metal, or have any recommendations on other blades to try?? |
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Post by mick on Jun 4, 2015 10:39:33 GMT -5
Glad you got your saw sorted and are happy with it I would have done the same as you a lot easer for everyone
And yes you can easily cut a 8' sheet with an f16 and a f11 that's what I use no problem at all your other question I don't know the answer
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 4, 2015 11:26:34 GMT -5
Funny was cutting aluminum today but on a table saw. I'll do some blade research, but any blade that works with the TS55 or the mt55 should be good for this guy as well. I know you mentioned kerf and I do not have a positive answer for this as I do not own this saw and am unfamiliar with how base adjustment works.
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 4, 2015 11:49:17 GMT -5
Brice, was just on the tenryu site.their aluminum blade is a thinner plate and kerf than stock mafell blades so I don't know how the tooth offset would affect the splinter strip. festool uses a thicker plate and kerf. I know on the mt55 you can adjust the base out to accommodate a wider tooth offset, but because I don't own the 400 I cannot say what's doable on that saw.
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bb
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Post by bb on Jun 4, 2015 12:34:48 GMT -5
Brice, was just on the tenryu site.their aluminum blade is a thinner plate and kerf than stock mafell blades so I don't know how the tooth offset would affect the splinter strip. festool uses a thicker plate and kerf. I know on the mt55 you can adjust the base out to accommodate a wider tooth offset, but because I don't own the 400 I cannot say what's doable on that saw. Very interesting, I hadn't heard about the adjustable base on the MT55. As far as I know the 400 doesn't, but what do I know.  I'm not sure thick kerf blades really pose much of an issue. Cutting a little farther in the splinter guard is no a big deal. The riving knife being thinner, well, I suppose that would reduce it's effectiveness a bit. Still, not necessarily a deal breaker. My biggest reservation about cutting aluminum with the 400 is there is no speed adjustment. This isn't too much of a problem with thin gauge, but thicker stuff I'd be a little concerned. |
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bb
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Post by bb on Jun 4, 2015 12:36:14 GMT -5
Glad you got your saw sorted and are happy with it I would have done the same as you a lot easer for everyone And yes you can easily cut a 8' sheet with an f16 and a f11 that's what I use no problem at all your other question I don't know the answer Thanks Mick. |
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Post by mick on Jun 4, 2015 13:43:31 GMT -5
No problem the base on the 400 doesn't adjust
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Post by 7 on Jun 4, 2015 21:37:42 GMT -5
Brice- Just confirming that a 160 attached to a 110 rail does easily cut the 8' sheet length. The ideal would be to have two of the 160s and one 110 so you could avoid connecting and disconnecting between 4' and 8' lengths. Anyway the short answer is that the two together give you plenty of room to ride the saw onto the wood and ride it off of an 8' length.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Jun 4, 2015 22:41:11 GMT -5
Don't forget clamps - they are thinner than the Festool versions and nice to have in certain applications. You can clamp right on edge, which is great with these rails. I also have two 160 and a 110 for everything from sheet good to longer straightline rips.
We need Tom to weigh in on his experience with blades - he talked about different ones for this saw, although I am not sure about aluminum cutting.
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Post by erik on Jun 4, 2015 22:49:52 GMT -5
I would recommend the Di-bond blade made by Mafell. For the 400/55, I liked its durability, sharpness and fine cut quality in most products so much it has become my go to blade. I ordered them for my other saws and in general, have high praise for metal-cutting blades. I've had my kapex outfitted with a hard plastic/soft metal blade for over two years and it still cuts fine for paint grade and has never been sharpened.
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bb
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Post by bb on Jun 5, 2015 7:43:45 GMT -5
I would recommend the Di-bond blade made by Mafell. For the 400/55, I liked its durability, sharpness and fine cut quality in most products so much it has become my go to blade. I ordered them for my other saws and in general, have high praise for metal-cutting blades. I've had my kapex outfitted with a hard plastic/soft metal blade for over two years and it still cuts fine for paint grade and has never been sharpened. Do you have a part number for the Di-bond blade? |
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bb
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Post by bb on Jun 5, 2015 8:48:12 GMT -5
Brice- Just confirming that a 160 attached to a 110 rail does easily cut the 8' sheet length. The ideal would be to have two of the 160s and one 110 so you could avoid connecting and disconnecting between 4' and 8' lengths. Anyway the short answer is that the two together give you plenty of room to ride the saw onto the wood and ride it off of an 8' length. Thanks 7. I'm pretty sure I'll end up with two 160 and one 110 rails. Right now I have one 160. I'm not sure where the 400 will fit in as a track saw. I've got a Festool TS55 and have invested in plenty of rails already, something like 35' of rail. So, I don't want to get crazy with more rail for a second track saw system. Depending on how well the 400 works for cutting sheet goods I may let go of the Festool saw and rails, and when a real need for a dedicated track saw arises I can get the MT55. Don't forget clamps - they are thinner than the Festool versions and nice to have in certain applications. You can clamp right on edge, which is great with these rails. I also have two 160 and a 110 for everything from sheet good to longer straightline rips. We need Tom to weigh in on his experience with blades - he talked about different ones for this saw, although I am not sure about aluminum cutting. Thanks, I've got some clamps, and other Mafell (and some Festool) accessories coming from Germany. I remember see Tom mention a Panasonic saw blade for steel. I know he gets busy with work so I guess he'll get here when he can. |
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Post by erik on Jun 6, 2015 8:37:26 GMT -5
Not sure of the part # off hand but it should be on the Timberwolf website.
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Post by 7 on Jun 6, 2015 22:35:12 GMT -5
I have been using the KSS400 on the standard rails for the past two days cause I let a friend borrow the MT55. It's very easy to use on the rail as long as you have a few inches of rail to start and end the cut on. Also worth mentioning- I am currently using a black tenryu blade and it cuts dead on with the splinter strip which I have run multiple saw blades on.
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I'm not sure thick kerf blades really pose much of an issue. Cutting a little farther in the splinter guard is no a big deal. The riving knife being thinner, well, I suppose that would reduce it's effectiveness a bit. Still, not necessarily a deal breaker. 