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Post by GhostFist on Jun 7, 2015 7:28:20 GMT -5
Wash at any local tool shop yesterday and was looking at the festool aluminum blade. The teeth are practically flush with the plate. I don't think this blade will cut into your splinter strip at all. In other news, Saif tool dealer was at ligna, and spent about lot of time harassing mafell. Fingers crossed a deal gets struck
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Post by tymbian on Oct 24, 2015 16:08:55 GMT -5
Will a 165 mm blade fit in the 400? Screwfix have 3 Dewalt blades for £43. 2x 24t & 1x40t. From what I can read from the site they're 1.65mm kerf. I've the Kss 400 on order ( it should arrive this week ) and it ships with a 32t blade. I could do with a blade for mainly cross cutting tanalised softwood. Has anyone used the Dewalt blades or has any recommendations?? Tenryu...any UK suppliers? Freud?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Oct 24, 2015 17:12:08 GMT -5
I personally haven't tried a 165mm blade in my 400. Their is definitely room properly need to adjust the riving knife. The only thing is and I could be nothing to worry about is the extra load on the motor from a larger blade
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Post by 7 on Oct 25, 2015 0:05:08 GMT -5
I have used both Tenryu and Freud blades on the KSS400. The tenryu is a little bit better but the freud blades have been good too. I haven't used the dewalt blades on any mafell saw but have used them on miter saws and regular circular saws and think they are below both the others in performance and don't seem to stay sharp as long.
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Post by tymbian on Oct 25, 2015 7:50:16 GMT -5
I've just ordered one of these www.teng.co.uk/stk1202028-stk1901640-dart-gold-tct-wood-saw-blades-thin-kerf.htmlGerman made,160mm,a 1.6 kerf which is 2/10ths mm less than the original blade so should be fine on he rail, and 24 teeth which is less than the 32 that comes with the 400. I've a roof to frame next week using tanalised c24 6/2 which is probably going to be damp/wet hence the 24t blade. The week after I've bamboo flooring and some built-ins using hardwood-ply for the 32t. Hopefully the blade won't cause much splintering. I'll report back after using the Dart blade.
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Post by tymbian on Oct 25, 2015 7:58:44 GMT -5
Are their any deals about at the moment regarding rails for the 400? I see screwfix have a Bosch 1600 rail and bag for £89 which seems OK. I'll need to buy an 1100 rail for 8' sheet..will it come with a connector or are they sold separately? How true are the rail when connected?
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Post by jimbouk on Oct 25, 2015 8:33:51 GMT -5
Let us know that blade gos on the tanalised interested to know as I might get one if it's good.
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Post by holmz on Oct 25, 2015 9:35:05 GMT -5
Are their any deals about at the moment regarding rails for the 400? I see screwfix have a Bosch 1600 rail and bag for £89 which seems OK. I'll need to buy an 1100 rail for 8' sheet..will it come with a connector or are they sold separately? How true are the rail when connected? Use two 1600. They connect like a champ. If you do rip and cross, then maybe three and keep two cnnected for the day. I would FO the 1100 and just get 3x 1600, and the extra 500 is not a drama, and you could always cut the rail if you want/need to. I just pull them apart reconect them. So you need 1 connector. I use a Mafell connector on the Bosch rail (for style points) and a Bosch bag for in cognito. The Bosch miter unit works good for angles, and the bosch quick clamps are worth having IMO.
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Post by tymbian on Nov 4, 2015 17:55:38 GMT -5
Ive managed to put my 400 to use and the Dart blade cuts treated stock just fine. I did sometimes have trouble though pushing the saw through 6x2" at 45deg. I think this was because the stock was soaking wet causing the timber to close/ swell behind the leading edge of the blade.Also with the stock being wet the non slip guide rail probably didn't stay put and could possibly of been twisting out of line as I tried to push the saw through...I did cut into the red strip a few times..bo**ox. I've also used the blade to plunge into chipboard flooring and it's like a knife through butter..
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Post by holmz on Nov 5, 2015 4:58:38 GMT -5
I did a cut like that onto a Bosch rail... But only once!
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Post by charley1968 on Nov 5, 2015 5:52:32 GMT -5
I think it's not strange that you had difficulties with that cut: max. Depth at 45' is 38mm on a rail.
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Post by tymbian on Nov 5, 2015 12:06:29 GMT -5
It wasn't a bevel cut though that's the thing. The cut was 90deg. to the rail but 45deg. across the timber.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 5, 2015 12:23:14 GMT -5
Was the angle going to the left or right. Ideally you want to place your body so it is one line with the cut if that makes sense. If right handed and angling to the left your arm tends to arc resulting in a not so smooth cutting action. Also sometimes spray a bit lubricant on top of the rail also aids the action and makes the saw slide smoother
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Post by tymbian on Nov 5, 2015 12:46:25 GMT -5
I was trying to get behind the saw and push straight ahead. The cut left to right from the front to back and I'm right handed..so the left stop,underneath the rail, was at the lower 45deg indent..so i was pushing forward..maybe I was unconsciously pushing the saw body over to the right and bending the blade.
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Post by charley1968 on Nov 5, 2015 12:59:29 GMT -5
In the beginning i pushed the rail across the wood until the stops underneath connected with the wood. After a kickback i changed the technique to first connect the stops with the edge of the wood and than to 'fold' the rail over the wood. Do you understand what i mean? Since then no more kickback or any other hassles..
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