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Post by GhostFist on Mar 4, 2013 11:40:12 GMT -5
Post jigs, settings and attachments here
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Post by GhostFist on Mar 22, 2013 13:06:18 GMT -5
Working on designs for parallel guides for the f tracks. Should work as a long square as well. I'll post progress.
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Post by jalvis on Mar 27, 2013 11:52:36 GMT -5
Thats great! I've been thinking up some ideas as well. It would be really nice if the guides sat on top of the wood member unlike the Festool Guides that are on the side. Haven't come up with the best design.
Be sure to post some photos.
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Post by GhostFist on Mar 27, 2013 17:27:52 GMT -5
Might be on hold for a bit real busy at work.
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 22, 2013 14:31:49 GMT -5
been thinking of a parallel guide system for the F tracks. at first my intention was to attach something to the track itself similar to the festool system. Now I feel that this shoul be a pair of jigs that attach to a workbench. perhaps that slide into a t track along the edge of the bench.These can be locked at your desired measurement and hinged back away from your work piece similar to how Festools cross cutting jig works on their MFT. Your track would simply butt up to these jigs when set and you can have repeatable rips at your desired width. Having two F 160 tracks joined and adding extension pieces to it seems both awkward and impractical. Much better to have the jigs act as a fence for your rail IMO.
Thoughts?
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Post by jonathan on Jun 22, 2013 15:09:28 GMT -5
Well, what do you do if you're on location and can't really take the bench with you? I think it should be something that can be added to a track. The problem is there's not much to work with on the Mafell rails. I've been drawing up a couple of ideas in sketchup myself and I've been thinking along the lines of a contraption that attaches to the top of the rail. I got the idea when I saw the Mafell MF26cc cutline indicators (see picture below)  The issue with this design is you have to detach them every time you're making a cut an then re-attach them for the next. The other idea I'm toying with is something really similar to the Festool design that just slides in the T-track at the bottom. Problem there is they're really small and I'm worried it might not be strong enough. |
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 22, 2013 17:23:38 GMT -5
On top of the track isn't really an option as theres no room for the saw and the guides. underneath can be strong enough as there are two grooves you can use. my jig ideas could be clamped to a makeshift table/cutting surface or attached to a custom portable table. A 10'track is wonky enough on its own, let alone attaching some 2' or some such dimensioned arms to it. I'd like to try and keep mine as simple and inexpensive as possible, so that anyone can make them. I have access to cnc and 3d print tech but why go to the trouble?
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Post by jalvis on Jun 22, 2013 20:15:20 GMT -5
Definitely should attach to the underside of the rail. Personally I would hate to remove for every cut.
In the past I would just use two pieces of scrap for certain lengths. Just measure your cut distance, set the rail on the line, place scrap piece on top of the sheet to be cut making sure it buts against the rail, place scrap block underneath the first piece of scrap being sure it buts against the edge of the sheet, and tack in place with nail gun. I then write the length on the new jig with the project name. Simple and dirty, but it works!
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Post by jonathan on Jun 23, 2013 4:06:10 GMT -5
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Post by 7 on Jul 14, 2013 0:59:55 GMT -5
I think I am getting really close on a great way of making some parallel guides for the MT55 rails. I might be going a different direction because most of the posts discuss hooking to the bottom of the rails and I am planning to connect to the top using the rail connectors. There is a reason I started my comment with "I think"...Ya never know if it will really work until most of the jig is assembled. At this point I can't find the hole in the idea.
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Post by GhostFist on Jul 14, 2013 9:58:52 GMT -5
my only concern with using the top is that the saw has to ride on the entirety of the rail leaving no room for a jig. I'm working out a set of bumpers that the rail just butts up to
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Post by 7 on Jul 14, 2013 14:51:05 GMT -5
I will be very curious to see the bumper system. The one I am thinking of would be more flush than above or below. I found that if I put the rail connector into the rail as if connecting one rail to the other there is still room below the rail connector to slide a fairly thick aluminum 2" wide ruler. So I think there is a good option of hooking the ruler to the rail connectors so it could be removed for transport or to connect to longer & shorter rail lengths. The saw could slide right over the whole system as the rail connector piece would be the highest point. The ruler could but up to the rail and be anchored to the rail connector at a perfect 90 degree from the track cutting edge. There would have to be a ruler on both sides of the track and one going across the back of the rulers parallel to the track cutting edge.
I will keep thinking through it and see if i find any reasons that it wouldn't work. If I make it work and think it is worth sharing I will figure out how to post pictures. At this point I wouldn't be surprised if there is a reason why it wouldn't work that is just slipping my mind. I know we are all busy with work & life but it will be great to come up with an easy repeat system for the track saw.
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Post by jonathan on Jul 15, 2013 1:44:37 GMT -5
I'm really curious to see what you guys come up with  Parallel guides are the only accessory I still miss from my TS55 days. |
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Post by GhostFist on Jul 15, 2013 17:11:49 GMT -5
Ok here's a very rough sketch of the general principal of my parallel guide idea. There's no specific dimensions here just an illustration of what I'm after. The guides will consist of two sliding bumpers, and ideally the top bumpers can be replaced with more convenient sizes, and the ability for adjustment in accordance for the thickness of material, either by shims or some sort of height adjustment. I'd also like some sort of hinge action for the top bumpers so that they can be raised out of the way when removing or placing a piece on the cutting surface. The short lower bumpers are for referencing the material on the jig, and the uppers for referencing your track. Note adjustment for the lower bumpers to slide beyond the uppers for thin rips. Ideally these would attach do a dedicated workbench via a t-track of some sort,but I'm also thinking of making this modular, in so much as they can also be attached to a fence of their own so that they could be used on any cutting surface or even the floor. Confused yet? Am I crazy? thoughts? Additional ideas? I'll try to eloborate on this sketch as I work out some details. Matt   |
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Post by 7 on Jul 15, 2013 21:38:52 GMT -5
I am a bit confused but I am pretty sure it's because your smarter than me haha (but not haha cause I'm actually serious)
You got me thinking again. I had not considered the option of having some system on the table itself. It would definitely be more compact & less awkward to use/ move around. Also much less expensive. The one I am thinking through would cost a bit. The two rail connectors are already $70 each or so. My work table is designed to be altered and added onto and I am a big fan of simple methods. They seem to work better if they work at all and none of us need more stuff to carry on and off the job site.
I will keep working through the details as time permits.
How do you upload pictures? I asked about videos also & it seems that setting up a youtube account is the easiest way??
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