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Post by GhostFist on Jul 15, 2013 22:20:14 GMT -5
I just posted a brief tutorial on uploading pictures and videos in the general section, check it out and let me know if you still have questions. The idea for attaching the guides to the table came from me ruling out attaching the guides to the track. I got to thinking, moving two F160 tracks joined together is a thing unto itself, try hanging the parallel guides off of them and resting them somewhere in an efficient manner. See where I'm coming from? By attaching them to a work table I should, in theory be able to hinge them up and out of the way similar to how the crosscutting attachment works with a guide rail on Festool's MFT system. I was thinking of some sort of hook system to place your guide track in while hinging it out of the way so you can safely replace or adjust your material while minimising swinging a giant track around your workspace. Also note the rounded ends on the bumpers. This is so you could adjust the two guides at different settings allowing you to make repeated angled cuts with either thin rips or wide ones.
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Post by 7 on Jul 16, 2013 23:07:48 GMT -5
I do see your point and yes in certain (most) spaces it is already enough to swing the larger rails around with out two or three more rails hanging off. In favor of a built into the table option I always set up the table anyway on any job big enough to justify parallel guides to increase productivity. I'm glad you got me thinking down another vein.
I had thought about an MFT model but not deeply. I have never owned an mft and have seen them set up at woodcraft. I'll keep thinking about it in the few free minutes I have.
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Post by GhostFist on Jul 17, 2013 0:00:20 GMT -5
My opinion is the mft isn't worth it. It's a wobbly table with some holes drilled in it. I can do better
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Post by 7 on Jul 17, 2013 10:42:23 GMT -5
I agree with your opinion about the MFT. I was meaning I had considered trying to solve the parallel guides riddle using a model patterned after the hinging track on the MFT but hadn't thought through it deeply. I mentioned in another post that I built a 3' x 6' Table mounted to Trojan brand sawhorses that I am very happy with. Its really stable and also easy to customize with different drop in tops etc.
After your posts I am now trying to generate ideas of guides that will attach to the table.
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Post by GhostFist on Jul 17, 2013 12:09:11 GMT -5
Well let's collaborate
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Post by 7 on Jul 18, 2013 0:19:49 GMT -5
I'm struggling with how to place a cut jig on a table because it seems it would need to move around unless the table was huge. The cut line would need to be in a different place for a 3" rip vs a 22" rip in order for the material to remain supported once cut?? But the non table ones are more to transport & a bit clunky.
Do you already have that part solved in your bumper design? It seems the track would have to move around to me?? Also odd question- Your from canada right? and therefore using metric? When using dimensions as I did with the 3" & 22" should I translate those into metric? Awesome that the US decided to use a less logical crappier system for some reason.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jul 18, 2013 4:27:24 GMT -5
I not sure of the jig attachment in the UK we use metric but a lot of things are still talked in imperial. Personally I think you shouldn't convert measurements to another type that's where the error comes in. Reading imperial isn't a problem more the dividing up is a pain with the fractions
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Post by GhostFist on Aug 15, 2013 7:49:04 GMT -5
For some reason this post didn't show as updated for me, so apologies for the late response. on further thinking of the design, I've decided to simplify things a touch. Negate the lower bumpers. It was initially my intention to have these act as a register for your stock and also to be used for thin rips. The problem I was having was developing a mechanism for independently adjusting upper and lower bumpers and allowing both to hinge away from the table independently. I think I'll opt for the "Keep It Simple, Stupid" method and just have two longer bumpers for consistent rips wider than the track. thin rips will be a separate compact and easily portable pair of jigs that will attach to the bottom of the track.
In regards to which measurement system I use...In Canada we were taught metric in schools, but in the carpentry trade we still use imperial. I prefer to use imperial measurement for most construction as I find the gradations are easier to read and I spend less time counting little lines. A 16th of an inch is damn near close enough for the vast majority of tasks.
As for dividing fractions it can put your head in a spin at first, but once you get used to it it's not that difficult, same with anything I suppose. Regardless, If I start measuring in one system of measurement, that's the way it goes for the entire project. No switching back and forth doing conversions, too much room for error there.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on May 23, 2014 13:21:03 GMT -5
Has anyone thought about using two angle fences for this purpose or modifying the angle fence? It comes with an arm, correct? Could you not mount two of these tracks at each end of your rail? Might not be the cheapest method, but if you could attach stops/arms for long and narrow rips into a system that already fits the rails it might work. I do not have an angle fence to see.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on May 23, 2014 13:43:29 GMT -5
Scrap the idea above -- it would limit you to the length of the track. But, I wonder if one of the arms for either long or narrow rips could incorporate the angle fence.
I like Ghostfists's bumper idea and Rip Dogs has a positioner that would lock Incra to an MFT style table narrow rips, but not sure the dogs would work with Mafell on the left side -- might hit the saw body.
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sstch
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by sstch on Jun 11, 2014 5:29:09 GMT -5
Hi all,
New to the Mafell users forum. Just looking at purchasing a Mafell MT55CC. Do Mafell now make parallel guides for their rail system? Or is the better bet to go with Festool rail guides and their parallel guides?
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 11, 2014 6:01:03 GMT -5
Mafell do not make a parallel guide system for their rails. We've been working on some ideas for shop made ones, but I don't think we've come to an agreement on a perfect design. The mt55 will work on festools rails but there is a difference in thickness between mafell's and festools rails which changes where the cut line is when doing beveled cuts. If I recall correctly beveling will move the cut line away from the splinter strip as festools rails are thinner
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Jun 11, 2014 7:27:11 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum! I got an email from Seneca that they were going to work on one after the release the Makita version. I have been playing around with a stop rule/rule stop and that seems pretty quick and accurate to get repetetive rips and not unwieldy at all since you have nothing attached to the guide rails. I have the Festool versions and they work for me, but they are kind of clunky to maneuver and honestly it is not any faster or more accurate so far than just using a stop rule for me. You are limited with a stop rule in the length and not sure if they make them longer than 12 inches (which is what I have). There are some good videos of people using the MFT and brackets for long rips with repeat capability and some users have incorporated an Incra fence to act like a table saw fence with repeatable results. I think some kind of repeatable system on a table (MFT or homemade) is probably the most accurate and easiest way to go if you are going to come up with something.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jun 11, 2014 11:05:52 GMT -5
Have to agree with that have never used the repetitive rods as I always imagine it to be more awkward and not really a time saver. The like of table or mft I could see that working easily as you will only be dealing with sheets after setting up.
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sstch
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by sstch on Jun 12, 2014 8:14:18 GMT -5
Are schematics available for the Mafell rails?
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