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Post by GhostFist on Jun 12, 2014 9:25:30 GMT -5
One of our members did a sketchup model somewhere in the forums I'll dig up for you tonight. If you scan through this thread there are some measurements you can use.
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Post by GhostFist on Aug 11, 2014 17:02:50 GMT -5
  Pic one - Yellow arrows point to adjustment screws for the base by loosening these you can adjust for "toe in" ( see follow up pic. and also re adjust the base to track settings, say for instance you are using a wider kerfed blade and dont want to cut into your splinter strip. Red arrows point to adjustment screws to keep the saw at 90. the saw slips past these screws when using the negative 1 setting. Pic two highlights fine ajustment for moving the heel of the saw out for desired "toe in" Hope this helps |
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Post by lincoln on Mar 21, 2015 6:30:39 GMT -5
Have been thinking about repeatable cuts, since getting my MT55. The only thing I could come up with was a table setup, where the rail stays put, via rail dogs, and the material moves under it into the correct position. Could you sink some t-track into the table, and have a fence type stop, that slides parallel to the rail? With a ruler of some sort trenched in next to each t-track. Ideally your workpiece would be under the track, but you could swing the rail around to rip narrow pieces against the fence/stop. Or, make a few fences from your most common thickness materials, so it could slide under the track. I guess sliding material under the track might be an issue? You would need to lift it a bit, to allow pieces to slide under. Can you slide under the mft rail, or do you need to lift it every time?
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Mar 25, 2015 22:25:17 GMT -5
Have been thinking about repeatable cuts, since getting my MT55. The only thing I could come up with was a table setup, where the rail stays put, via rail dogs, and the material moves under it into the correct position. Could you sink some t-track into the table, and have a fence type stop, that slides parallel to the rail? With a ruler of some sort trenched in next to each t-track. Ideally your workpiece would be under the track, but you could swing the rail around to rip narrow pieces against the fence/stop. Or, make a few fences from your most common thickness materials, so it could slide under the track. I guess sliding material under the track might be an issue? You would need to lift it a bit, to allow pieces to slide under. Can you slide under the mft rail, or do you need to lift it every time? Lots of ways to accomplish this and so far the stop rule is the fastest and easiest method I have used and it is dead-nuts accurate. I think we had a discussion on this awhile back. |
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Post by lincoln on Mar 26, 2015 3:53:12 GMT -5
I'm going to make a cutting table, which will double as an assembly bench. The plan is for a 25mm MDF top, with 20mm holes - which a friend will CNC for me - and two mitre tracks sunk into it, across the width. In the tracks will be a steel 'mitre track bar', 450mm long. I'll attach a fence of some sort to the bars, which will allow it to slide across the table. I'll sink a ruler in, next to each track. The Mafell rail will sit in the one spot, attached to rail dogs. That way I can lift or lower the rail, depending on thickness of material being cut. So, the cutting will be done in the one spot, the material will move back and forward. Not sure what to use for the fence - probably a strip of MDF, 200mm wide x 1800mm long. If anyone can see any problems, please let me know. Will document the build in a thread, when I kick off. |
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Post by mick on Mar 26, 2015 4:26:00 GMT -5
Look forward to seeing your progress
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Post by lincoln on Mar 28, 2015 23:08:32 GMT -5
Had another look at the rails, and the various parallel guides available. The only thing I could come up with was mounting the rail on a strip of 6 or 9mm ply, that's wider than the rail, allowing you to attach a guide system. You would lose some depth of cut though.
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Post by lincoln on Apr 10, 2015 2:04:22 GMT -5
Noticed that there are parallel guides for the PSS 3100 SE (portable panel saw system). Rail is totally different, of course, but interesting.
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 11, 2015 12:45:01 GMT -5
found this
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Apr 11, 2015 12:55:37 GMT -5
I think that a stop rule is the easiest and fastest method for repeat cuts.
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 11, 2015 18:32:30 GMT -5
more jigs
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Post by richie on Apr 21, 2015 2:13:15 GMT -5
Mitres with the parallel guide. If you turn the parallel guide upside down its sits flush with the base, so the saw doesn't keep falling over. You can drop a spare guide down and make the cut as well. ![]()  |
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Post by lincoln on Apr 21, 2015 5:10:46 GMT -5
Mitres with the parallel guide. If you turn the parallel guide upside down its sits flush with the base, so the saw doesn't keep falling over. You can drop a spare guide down and make the cut as well. ![]() Great tip Richie! I don't have the parallel guide, but might consider it now. Do you (or anyone else) get much use out of it? |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Apr 21, 2015 8:17:35 GMT -5
I often use the parralel guide if doing a series of rips the same. I feel its one set up rather than having to keep repeating the same set up. Also if at angle and turn the guide upside down increases the base area making the saw more stable
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Post by jonathan on Apr 21, 2015 8:35:23 GMT -5
I too use it regularly for ripping thin strips.
I've also attached a piece of 19mm thick scrap MDF to mine to aid in dust collection when I'm just shaving off a few millimeters.
That way the dust has much less chance to get airborne right side of the blade and most of it gets sucked in. Makes a huge difference on OSB & MDF.
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