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Post by thedude306 on Sept 4, 2014 20:40:37 GMT -5
Man, this is a super great saw. I am glad Scot sent me this way. I have decided that the MT55 is coming after harvest but this saw is going to make it to me by spring for my house build. It's just an awesome piece of equipment. My Bosch FSN 800 tracks made it to NA so I should see them in a few weeks.
How do guys like using this saw on the F tracks? I am thinking of ordering two 1600 with the MT55?
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Sept 4, 2014 22:55:07 GMT -5
The KSS-400 works great on the F-tracks! I've regularly used it to break down sheet goods, and cutting hardwood flooring in place. The saw cuts along the exact same line as the MT-55cc, and has a very nice, smooth plunging action.
While the KSS-400 is certainly suitable for cutting millwork (door+window casing, baseboard, etc...), I regularly use it for framing applications. Crosscutting 2x material is a breeze, and the saw REALLY shines when chopping up roof framing or cutting stair stringers.
The 32 tooth blade that ships with it is great and works for just about everything. If, however, you think you'll be doing a lot of framing with it, I recommend also checking out the 24 tooth blade. It still cuts pretty smoothly, but is better suited to ripping applications and faster feed rates.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Sept 5, 2014 0:36:58 GMT -5
Tom, did you also get the higher tooth blade for sheet material or fine cross-cuts?
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Post by checkmax on Sept 5, 2014 1:24:14 GMT -5
I think you should buy the kss80 if you're on the fence. Either the kss400 and mt55 or the kss80. We need more people with the kss80 on this forum to speak up! I'm in the same dilemma. The easy solution would be all three plus the Hammer K3 and the Barth multipress for good measure. Small investment...
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 5, 2014 4:28:05 GMT -5
As far as i know only one user on the forum owns a kss80
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Sept 5, 2014 10:05:12 GMT -5
I am really leaning toward the KSS80. I actually think that it and a KSS300 would be a dynamic duo and fit the spectrum/range of cutting needs.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 5, 2014 10:30:52 GMT -5
Choosing which kss saw to go for isn't the easiest of things to decide. It is properly best sitting down and right what tasks you do and then put a percentage against each for example if you have a higher percentage against doing trim, then the 300. If you do a lot cut roofs with hips and valleys and need the bevel to go past 45 then the kss80. If the roof is only common rafters 2x then the 400 is sufficient for the job and truthfully there is no need for the 80. Then if most of your cuts are over 2x then the 80. In the uk and I think Europe as well most framing is 2x so the 400 properly suits us just fine. This week at work I have bring doi finishings either the 400 it does do them fine. Saying that though if I had the 300 and power or it was cordless I would use. Then again it's only once in a blue moon so for personally getting the 300 at this moment in time isn't justified. Just cause I do it once
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Post by thedude306 on Sept 5, 2014 14:35:42 GMT -5
I am really leaning toward the KSS80. I actually think that it and a KSS300 would be a dynamic duo and fit the spectrum/range of cutting needs. With those two saws you will need to dump the 75 and get a MT55.... you wouldn't want to have an incomplete trio.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Sept 5, 2014 16:37:06 GMT -5
All great thoughts. I work 90% of the time with solid wood. Probably 60-70% of that is 4/4 -- so the 400 would be fine. The rest is 8/4 mostly and on occasion bigger timber -- so that leads to the 80. The 80 could be the one and only saw I use, but I wonder about the weight of the saw and if it is overkill for every task.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Sept 5, 2014 20:00:44 GMT -5
All great thoughts. I work 90% of the time with solid wood. Probably 60-70% of that is 4/4 -- so the 400 would be fine. The rest is 8/4 mostly and on occasion bigger timber -- so that leads to the 80. The 80 could be the one and only saw I use, but I wonder about the weight of the saw and if it is overkill for every task. I read a review recently (about the KSS80, in fact!) where the author starts the article writing "BEFORE cutting my first timber frame, I was convinced that the biggest circular saw was the essential power tool. So I purchased the popular Makita 16¼-in. saw (5402NA). After lugging this 32-lb. saw around and struggling to get straight cuts with it, I soon realized what you really need is the smallest saw that will get the job done." -- Ben Weiss In this review, Ben describes starting with a monster saw, then paring down to the smallest saw (KSS-80) that will achieve the majority of his cuts. In that vein, I'd strongly steer you towards the KSS-400 as your daily driver. While the 80/85 would be nice for the odd beam you need to cut, it'd be a bummer to have to heave that thing around for a lot of 4/4 work. Besides, in the article the author talks about the 56 tooth blade cutting "only slightly" better than the 24 tooth blade, which he described as cutting nicely for framing, but that makes me wonder if it would produce adequate cuts if you're hoping to use it for making bespoke furniture? I'm sure the KSS80/K85 make great cuts, but remember that they are oriented towards timber framers. You will also have many more blade options with the KSS400, whereas you might be somewhat limited with the KSS80/K85.....
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Sept 5, 2014 20:04:42 GMT -5
Tom, did you also get the higher tooth blade for sheet material or fine cross-cuts? I did get the higher tooth blade, but thus far have only used it for cutting aluminum. The blade is a triple chip geometry, and I think has a negative rake on the teeth? The 32 tooth blade is great for most fine work, if I REALLY wanted to make some nice cuts I'd probably try the Festool "Fine" tooth blade. The kerfs are different, but if you do the math the difference on the guide rail side is less than the thickness of a human hair.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Sept 5, 2014 20:13:59 GMT -5
Thanks, Tom. Good stuff. Do you have a link to the review you were reading? I have been scouring the internet for data on these saws to get as much info as I can on them.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Sept 5, 2014 20:21:01 GMT -5
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Sept 5, 2014 20:32:39 GMT -5
Awesome read...thanks! The KSS400 might be the best option as you state...and it is not as if I cannot add one or the other later if it does not work. I dunno...tough choice for sure.
Do you find the guard lever works smoothly? I really like how it works on the 300 and 80, but since you have been using it for 9 months I assume it works well?
Not to beat a dead horse, but have you had to cut much thicker than 4/4 and if so, did the motor bog down at all? The motor on this saw is not the latest Cuprex...I wonder if they are planning on a redesign at some point as it seems most of the newer stuff has the Cuprex motor and I think that they started offering it on the KSP85 too.
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Post by thedude306 on Sept 5, 2014 20:45:33 GMT -5
I think Tom has a great point about getting the smallest saw to do the biggest job you do. In so many things this rings true, and is great advice. I don't need 44" tires on my truck when 37" tires get me over 95% of the obstacles. I wouldn't swing a 30oz hammer all day when my 22oz does the job.
I never thought about the blade selection. That could be a potential issue??
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