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Post by checkmax on Aug 10, 2014 19:09:27 GMT -5
All very helpful comments. As a first saw it sounds like the Kss400 has the greatest utility (yes I know the 300 is a great saw too). Is melamine the deal breaker with mt55 v. Kss400 cut quality? Are you using a higher tooth blade for cutting sheet goods on kss400 or the standard? Most of sheet goods are 3/4" finished ply and treated ply. I have a stack of 4x6x8 hardwoods which will get cut down. That's been my dilemma with the kss80.
I'm thinking first saw - kss400, then mt55.
Or. Kss80 as all rounder with mt55 to fill in later.
Seems like Garth owns/uses the whole line.
Thoughts from people who own all 3 saws?
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Post by checkmax on Aug 10, 2014 19:09:52 GMT -5
All very helpful comments. As a first saw it sounds like the Kss400 has the greatest utility (yes I know the 300 is a great saw too). Is melamine the deal breaker with mt55 v. Kss400 cut quality? Are you using a higher tooth blade for cutting sheet goods on kss400 or the standard? Most of sheet goods are 3/4" finished ply and treated ply. I have a stack of 4x6x8 hardwoods which will get cut down. That's been my dilemma with the kss80.
I'm thinking first saw - kss400, then mt55.
Or. Kss80 as all rounder with mt55 to fill in later.
Seems like Garth owns/uses the whole line.
Thoughts from people who own all 3 saws?
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Post by 7 on Aug 10, 2014 23:17:49 GMT -5
If you are buying a saw with the sheet goods in mind then MT55 for sure. The cut quality and the ease of use on the rails are better than the others due to the plunge action.
Seems like the 4x6x8 hardwood might be best on a bandsaw then a planer or some large tool arrangement like that.
I own the MT55, KSS300, KSS400, P1CC. - MT55 always for sheet goods/ built ins, etc. KSS300 for wood flooring and very small trim jobs where it's not worth it to set up a miter saw & stand. KSS400 for decks & exterior projects. Hope this helps even though it's just a personal opionion and not applicable to all people or situations.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Aug 11, 2014 1:06:49 GMT -5
Yeah I'll agree with that as well that. The mt55 is unbeatable at sheet goods. The 300 if doing the odd trim or where there is hardly any room to set up a chop saw. On site here in the uk often the powers of management will decide to have every man and his dog working in the same house and setting up the chop saw can get in the way. Where the 300 can be convenient. If there is the room to work then the chop saw is a better choice for a full house of trim or the Erika. The 400 if doing general joinery and working on site
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Post by checkmax on Aug 11, 2014 1:43:36 GMT -5
Great. Thanks for the comments. Sounds like the MT55 is a staple in the saw inventory. Kss400 in the absence of timber framing and kss300 for sheet goods and trim which don't need a glue ready edge.
Now I need to figure out the work table situation...
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Aug 11, 2014 21:33:43 GMT -5
Just to cast a late vote here, I own a MT-55cc and KSS-400. While I agree that if I'm focusing on finished sheet goods the MT-55cc is ideal, I end up using my KSS-400 90%+ of the time. Fitted with the correct blade, the 400 delivers a great finished edge (I'd say glue ready) on most materials. I've used the 400 for everything from cutting up stair stringers and hand framing roofs (on the rough carpentry end) to cutting window and door casing, baseboard and base shoe on the trim end of the spectrum. Put another way, the MT-55c is a panel specialist, but the 400 is profoundly versatile, and should not be overlooked. For a work table, I've been VERY happy using two Festool MFT/3 tables, using sacrificial 2x4 cleats to hold the material. Below is a link to a thread where I discuss this: mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/129/using-sacrificial-cleats-sawing-stationBest of luck to you, work safe and have fun!
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Post by checkmax on Aug 12, 2014 6:02:06 GMT -5
Hi Tom
Thanks for the advice. Do you regret not having the Kss300? What blade do you recommend for the kss400 for fine cuts - finish ply?
I also sent you a PM.
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Aug 12, 2014 6:54:05 GMT -5
Hi Tom Thanks for the advice. Do you regret not having the Kss300? What blade do you recommend for the kss400 for fine cuts - finish ply? I also sent you a PM. Hi Martin! I'll write a longer message tonight, but I've been VERY happy with the 32 tooth blade that ships with the 400. If I knew that I would be cutting finished ply, I would probably experiment with a higher tooth count blade, perhaps even the "Fine" blade manufactured by Festool? I started out owning a MT-55, KSS-400 AND KSS-300. All three are GREAT saws, but for my specific uses the 400 did everything the 300 did, but with greater depth of cut, power, and the track allows for wider crosscuts. I'm a bigger guy (6'2", 200lbs) who apprenticed on worm drive saws, so wielding the 400 is no sweat for me, though I could see where it might be overkill if you are exclusively doing small, interior work. I have a few more mods and tricks for my saw, I'll post about them again soon. Have a great week! Best, Tom
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Aug 12, 2014 7:37:26 GMT -5
Personally if I had to choose one saw the 400 would win every time I have never used a saw so versatile. It is basically your chop saw, circular saw, track saw, table saw all rolled into one package. It will do 90% of all tasks I need it to do for work purposes having the cordless version safes have to carry a bunch of saws that a lot of other tradesmen carry with them everyday. I only take the Erika if I have specific job and I need the repeatable work where I would set the stop system. For example doing door frames I can set the stop for the heads and all will be the same. Where if I measure I could be plus or minus a mill. In truth for general framing it don't matter things average themselves out and it all works.
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Post by highlander on Aug 14, 2014 19:42:08 GMT -5
Just ordered my 400 but will definately be keeping my 300, its such an awesome little saw especially with the flexirail in the same systainer. It can be used in awkward positions safely and with ease and it also has the shadow gap capabilities which the 400 cant do. After owning the 300 for a while I couldnt be without it, for finishing work it is so precise and the handling is far nicer/easier than the 400. I am buying the 400 for cutting in roofs/floors/parti walls/decks and the like as the 300 doesnt have the depth of cut but certainly has the power. I have cut 8" by 2" material with it no problem but had to finish the cut with a hand saw. I will use the 400 mostly for cross cutting and the mt55cc for fine work/laminates and also ripping thicker timber the 300 wont manage and the 400 could struggle and trimming doors etc as it has a bit more power than the 400. Would love a cordless 400 but cant justify the cost at present. Also just picked up an older ksp55 24v for £250 for the occasional time when power is an issue, has anyone ever tried this saw? It hasnt arrived yet so havent had a chance to try it and am a little dubious of the older battery technology but figured for that price it was worth a try as a battery saw can be very handy for certain cuts ie lifting floorboards, cutting out velux windows, cutting up osb etc.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 16, 2014 9:24:56 GMT -5
I keep going back and forth on this issue - 400/80/MT55...I have a Festool TS75 now, but really like Mafell's rails and I was all set to get the MT55 (I build furniture and cabinets mostly with the odd construction type tasks). Now, I do not work much with sheet goods - 90% of what I do is solid timber - 4/4 - 12/4 thick stock usually. Is the KSS better suited to solid timber cutting and does it make fine-furniture grade cuts or is the MT55 better suited for this? I worry about the lack of adjustment for any slop on the 400 rail, but maybe that is a non-issue. I am happy with my TS75, but Mafell is more refined and the F-rails are AWESOME. Of course I could keep my 75 and add the 400? I will likely end up with them both at some point...decisions, decisions...
Any other thoughts experienced users could share?
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Post by GhostFist on Aug 16, 2014 10:21:10 GMT -5
Have you more seriously considered the kss80? If you're doing more solid wood furniture I don't feel a scoring function is needed. I wouldn't worry about slop adjustment as they're pretty accurately machined plus the 80 can bevel up to 60 degrees.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Aug 16, 2014 10:45:09 GMT -5
The slop isn't an issue. In your situation I would go for the 80 and carry on using the 75 as well for the time being
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 16, 2014 15:26:40 GMT -5
Thanks, guys. Yes, the KSS80 has been a consideration from the get go too. Such a tough choice for whatever reason...and I am sure that none of the saws would disappoint. I know Woodie has one and he has been busy of late, but would love to hear his thoughts after using it for some time. Anyone else out there have the 80 to share some thoughts?
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Post by Tom Gensmer on Aug 16, 2014 18:23:19 GMT -5
I keep going back and forth on this issue - 400/80/MT55...I have a Festool TS75 now, but really like Mafell's rails and I was all set to get the MT55 (I build furniture and cabinets mostly with the odd construction type tasks). Now, I do not work much with sheet goods - 90% of what I do is solid timber - 4/4 - 12/4 thick stock usually. Is the KSS better suited to solid timber cutting and does it make fine-furniture grade cuts or is the MT55 better suited for this? I worry about the lack of adjustment for any slop on the 400 rail, but maybe that is a non-issue. I am happy with my TS75, but Mafell is more refined and the F-rails are AWESOME. Of course I could keep my 75 and add the 400? I will likely end up with them both at some point...decisions, decisions... Any other thoughts experienced users could share? Hi Scott! The Mafell tracks are AWESOME!!! I own both the MT-55 and KSS-400. The MT-55cc is a beautifully designed and built machine, it's a pleasure every time I can the occasion to use it. That being said, between those two saws, my KSS-400 sees 95% of my use. I use it for everything from cutting stair stringers and hand framing roofs, to cutting door and window casing, as well as processing sheet goods. I was initially a bit wary of the 400 because it LOOKS like a traditional framing saw, so I assumed it would be a little "loose". Quite to the contrary, the 400 is built every bit as well as the MT-55. Equipped with a "Fine" blade, I have no doubt that the KSS-400 would cut every bit as nicely as the MT-55. If you're primarily working with solid lumber, I'd suggest you would be better served with one of the KSS saws, versus a plunge cutting saw. I regularly use my 400 to process 4x4 lumber and it does so with ease, just takes multiple passes. If you're processing "BIG" lumber like 12/4 stock, you might be better served with the KSS-80, or even the Erika 85. I hope this helps! :-)
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