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Post by jalvis on Jan 15, 2014 17:23:07 GMT -5
I've only used parallel guides while taking the three day Festool Cabinet class. When it comes to 'parallel' I use the table saw but thats because I have the option. Although I have build 7 foot tall cabinets and shelving without parallel guides. Just measured and cut using guide and clamps. I've even done the same with dados. You just need a good eye.
As for the Mafell Guide rails you can make your own system similar to the Festool system. You just can't buy one off the shelf.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 15, 2014 18:03:01 GMT -5
Yeah I'm the same never used parallel guides, if I needed to I would properly just simply make wooden storey rods clamp them then butt the guide rails to up to them. Simple and basic.
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 15, 2014 19:24:37 GMT -5
If you dig through here there are a few solutions for shop made parallel guides apart from what has already been suggested. personally I find the parallel guides cumbersome on long rips and they are bloody expensive. Heck, repeat parallel cuts can be made by setting a combo square or t-square to butt your rail up to an is hundreds of dollars cheaper than festools parallel guides. As for accurate parallel rips of significant length on a table saw the most accurate and fastest solution is on a good large scale slider, at least for wider rips. A standard cabinet saw needs both good infeed and outfeed support, plus a steady hand to prevent any bow in your cut. A track saw, especially with the mafell rails (IMO)will give you a bang on straight cut no if ands or buts in just over 8', you're looking at close to double that for a slider or cabinet saw and you could easily spend a good 10 grand more money on a good slider. Just saying.
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Post by jmccollom on Jan 16, 2014 10:36:38 GMT -5
I appreciate all the feedback. That was really my only reservation with the MT55. Looks like Timberwolf will be getting another customer. Thanks you very much.
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Post by jalvis on Jan 16, 2014 10:51:46 GMT -5
In the past I've done what Wrightwoodwork does. If this was a method I used often then it would be smart to make an adjustable set with a ruler that calibrated to the rail. Then you just set the stop using the ruler and you don't have to measure. Could probably built a set with scraps or get some T-slot aluminum for less then $30.
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 16, 2014 11:18:14 GMT -5
Just to clarify, I don't feel a track saw completely replaces a table saw. I do feel that for a small/portable shop you can get away with a bechtop table saw and a good track saw, eliminating the extra space needed for a large cabinet/sliding table saw. Cream of the crop portable table saw setup would be either mafell's or Festool precisio, but those are also big bucks, you can still be really productive with something like Dewalt bechtop
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Post by jalvis on Jan 16, 2014 12:10:09 GMT -5
Like most things it comes down to shop production/output. That alone will dictate how your shop tooling changes.
I built lots of custom projects with a Track Saw and portable table saw. If you do onsite work you will need a portable table saw anyways and the USA models allow dado blades. I got the largest of the versions(Bosch) but nearly every manufacturer has a large and small bench top version. The real key to any saw is a high quality blade thats sharp and intended for the cut being accomplished.
For the cost of a portable table saw(especially used) I don't know why one would avoid the option.
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Post by jalvis on Jan 16, 2014 12:15:06 GMT -5
Another smart addition once you have a portable saw is to build a "Cross Cut Sled"
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Post by taylorkitchens on Jan 26, 2014 14:15:40 GMT -5
so i picked it up last tuesday.. all i can say is wow. it is amazing, i used a friends makita plunge saw and it was nice but the mt55cc is just so nice and easy to use and the cuts it leaves are faultless rails are extremely good to. love the whole package
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Post by jonathan on Jan 26, 2014 15:25:56 GMT -5
taylorkitchens, as long as you don't dull your blades too much over time, that saw should keep putting smiles on your face for years to come Did you get the MidiMax or MaxiMax package? I ask because that clip-on plunge indicator accessory could come in quite handy for you when fitting countertops.
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Post by taylorkitchens on Jan 27, 2014 14:02:52 GMT -5
Hey Jonathan, i bought the MaxiMax package
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Post by jonathan on Jan 27, 2014 14:15:40 GMT -5
Good choice
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luzzy
Junior Member
Posts: 91
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Post by luzzy on Jan 31, 2014 6:31:55 GMT -5
I used the TS55 for about 6 or 7 years. I've cut hundreds of finished panels with it. It's a very good saw. I replaced it with the REQ a couple of weeks ago as it was time for something new. I started doing more research AFTER my purchase. Duh. I sold the brand new REQ and got the MT55 and guile rails with the Position Indicator this week. With the Festool ,my plunge cuts were somewhat "blind" . When I saw the position indicator on the Mafell - I thought of all the times I could have used it. There a few other things the Mafell does better too. Dust collection is superior.
Yesterday , i used it to make rips - 22.5 degree angle on 1/4" wiggle board. Quality of cut,balance ,dust collection and quality of the guide rail attachment system are first rate. Where I think Festool makes nice equipment , Mafell is a notch above. I'm very happy I made the move. I do wish they'd move to the T-Loc Systainer but I'm sure it will come in time.
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Post by 7 on Jan 31, 2014 21:02:39 GMT -5
I agree with your wish for the T-loc Mafell. The love of the saw makes me care a bit less but I do like the T-locs quite a bit better.
I made a bunch of rip cuts to straighten some 8/4 cherry today. I'm gonna go back out to the shop in a minute to continue. This was actually the first time that I cut hard material this thick so I went really slow for the first cut…after a few cuts I realized it wasn't bogging as I had suspected it would and then started cutting a lot faster.
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Post by jalvis on Jan 31, 2014 22:14:51 GMT -5
Have you picked up a rip blade yet? I'm really impressed with the Tenryu for only $25.
I have a pile of sustainers and agree the T-locs are far easier to use. Although I'm finding that sustainers are really a pain. I'm starting to think it would be better to have everything on shelves and then just take whatever is needed for the day if not in the shop. Opening, closing, and unstacking is becoming a real nuisance.
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