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Post by mafelluser on Dec 27, 2017 15:54:01 GMT -5
As mentioned by huntsgemein, campbellmillertools.co.uk (UKs largest Bosch distributor) also tend to have quite competitive pricing on Bosch FSN rail packages (2x 1600 + connector + bag, but no clamps), although the price fluctuates, and, at the time of this typing, it's not quite as competitive as that Orbital deal.
I bought a set from them, a few months back, and I think it was about £100 all-in, at the point in time.
In short, keep checking back every few weeks, and you might just get lucky (although I can't guarantee that!)
I have no idea what their offical or unofficial cross-territory shipping policy might be, however.
As a long-time (several decades) distributor, they might be unwilling to put their Bosch relationship at risk.
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Post by mafelluser on Dec 27, 2017 16:16:20 GMT -5
Whilst we're on the topic of FSN rails, I've done a search but can't unearth the info I'm seeking - can one of you get me back up to speed with FSN clamps, please? (it's been many months and my memory is rusty on this topic) Doesn't seem worthy of starting a new thread, given that the answer is probably already lurking somewhere in these threads. What I'm trying to recall is if there are any cheaper alternatives to Bosch's 'Fast Fix Clamps', that definitely do fit the slots in the FSN rails: 
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Post by chippiegary on Dec 27, 2017 16:20:29 GMT -5
A friend of mine buys Axminster tools “uk company” own make but he has to fine tune them with a grinder to fit I’m not sure of price but he’s says they are a lot cheaper “ he’s a known tight arse !!” The Bosch ones are great though and Bosch is a lot cheaper than mafell in uk still find it really strange that they aren’t available in the states ridiculous ! You’d also think mafell would also make them albeit red
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Post by chippiegary on Dec 27, 2017 16:31:55 GMT -5
Irwin do a quick clamp with removable rubber ends I’m pretty sure you could grind one side down they are really cheap worth a go I guess
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Post by mafelluser on Dec 27, 2017 17:39:37 GMT -5
It's coming back to me, now. One of the issues is finding a clamp that has a totally-flush head, so that it won't foul on the underside of the FSN rail. The Triton TTSWC look almost suitable, with a bit of careful grinding, at half the price: www.amazon.co.uk/Triton-TTSWC-Plunge-Track-Clamps/dp/B00G5S6QOK
As do the almost-identical DeWalt variants: www.powertoolsuk.co.uk/dewalt-dws5026-quick-clamps.html

Makita might do a similar rail quick-clamp, but all I've seen from them is screw-thread type rail clamps
I'm tempted to order some of the Tritons, but the handles look badly designed (seems maybe the handle will almost touch the underside of the clamped material, making it very difficult to get fingers in, to grip the clamp, for attachment & release); anyone else tried modifying these?
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Post by mafelluser on Dec 27, 2017 18:05:00 GMT -5
A friend of mine buys Axminster tools “uk company” own make but he has to fine tune them with a grinder to fit I’m not sure of price but he’s says they are a lot cheaper “ he’s a known tight arse !!” The Bosch ones are great though and Bosch is a lot cheaper than mafell in uk still find it really strange that they aren’t available in the states ridiculous ! You’d also think mafell would also make them albeit red Thanks for the suggestion, Gary. However, the only Axminster ones I can see on their website, that have a relatively-flush head are the Bessey-style ones, that look like Festool clamps, and although more robust than the Bosch clamps I mentioned, they're even more expensive!  : www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-clamps-forged-quick-lever-guide-rail-clamp-ax945902 The Festool FS-HZ 160 are familiar to forum members, here, and are more expensive, still: www.axminster.co.uk/festool-fs-hz-160-steel-ratchet-lever-clamp-491594 If anyone has more suggestions, I'm eager to hear them!  Thanks again, for the suggestion, Gary.
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Post by kraftt on Sept 24, 2018 18:01:04 GMT -5
Of all the mods, diy's, etc. this has to be my most used and favorite. It's just a nickel & velcro stuck on out of frustration to the back of the base. I really dislike taking out and using the allen key for tightening / loosening rail connector.  So while I do like the speed & handiness of using the nickel coin it's too small to put much pressure into when your fingers are tired, sore or cut. Searched for the widest blank car key at the hardware store, cut and ground it to fit in rail connector eccentrics. Very comfy on the fingers and you really feel you've tightened them as much as you could with ease. 
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Post by aas on Sept 25, 2018 0:33:09 GMT -5
Just replace the allen key for the saw with the allen key supplied with the rails...
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Post by kraftt on Sept 25, 2018 7:58:20 GMT -5
The allen's that come with the saw are the same as come with the rail connectors. (added shrink to one) Maybe it's just me or I'm trying to crank the connector eccentrics too tight but the allen keys dig into my fingers. I can get the eccentrics tighter, easier, faster with the car key / coin etc. Also don't like fishing out the allen from it's receiver compared to just pawing at the saw to swipe off velcro'ed key/coin and then just slap it back on. I could be changing up my rail combinations more than others for some reason so it bothers me more (?) If I ground the short end of the allen key the same as the long end then it would be fine but I wouldn't trust it so much over time not to gum up the blade bolt head. 
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Post by kraftt on Sept 25, 2018 20:00:32 GMT -5
Settled on this design, made a few for box, saw, bag. Has the comfyness of key, velcro dot on other side for saw, and strap to be able to find it inside rail bag, pull off saw, and throw in back pocket for easy retrieval.  
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Post by kraftt on Sept 30, 2018 14:34:58 GMT -5
hey guys, I received an enquiry from a member wanting one of the strap style rail keys above. Iv'e ordered up some parts and think I will make a few. Let me know if anyone else wants one. (I have no idea what to charge?) 
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Post by holmz on Oct 1, 2018 1:58:04 GMT -5
hey guys, I received an enquiry from a member wanting one of the strap style rail keys above. Iv'e ordered up some parts and think I will make a few. Let me know if anyone else wants one. (I have no idea what to charge?)  Whatever two litres of wheat beer cost?
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Post by aas on Oct 1, 2018 15:12:42 GMT -5
Maybe it's just me or I'm trying to crank the connector eccentrics too tight but the allen keys dig into my fingers. I think you're trying to crank it too tight.
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Post by kraftt on Oct 1, 2018 16:14:42 GMT -5
Maybe it's just me or I'm trying to crank the connector eccentrics too tight but the allen keys dig into my fingers. I think you're trying to crank it too tight. I’m not sure if there’s ‘too tight’ with the eccentrics because they do max out. I’ve got both bosch & mafell connectors and on a cut in half 160cm rail if the connector isn’t tight it will pull apart some trying to pull it out of a half unzipped rail bag. Same thing happens, 2 full length connected, tracks start to split if I start manhandling things table top / weight of saw one end and I try to drag by other end of rail to move things. Sometimes you use only one clamp at only start end, nothing on other end, and cut towards a rail stop - I’ve hit the stop hard (working fast) and got a minor gap to appear, that’s not good when using a stop. As an example I can tighten the 4 eccentrics to 90% and grip both halves and pull them apart some, I’m no wimp and like the rest of you guys we all instinctively make something tight and then some. But to get peace of mind you really need to make them tight / maxed out. So no problem - just crank the eccentrics tight. Simple. That’s also where performing this simple repetitive task gets annoying with the wrong end of a spindly allen wrench. Believe me for all my tinkering I prefer simple solutions, and the idea of the supplied allen wrench performing two tasks is the kind of simple I like. Except, for me, it’s an awkward method compared to using a rail key. The coin was perfect, just too small to leverage comfortably. The larger area of a rail key makes tightening easy without much force easily letting you know the eccentric is maxed out. I just love the idea of showing up with a rails and a saw, throwing the rail(s) down anywhere and starting to cut. It’s so fast. But for me the flow is disrupted by not having the right tool in my hand to comfortably tighten or remove connectors. *edit- - by 'maxing out' I'm mean that there is a max distance of expansion room to fill before it becomes impractical to apply any more compression. You can feel it just stop.
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Post by aas on Oct 2, 2018 0:10:45 GMT -5
OK I've not had the problem of rails coming apart. I tighten with the allen key supplied and store it in the key slot in the MT55. Even dragging the rails with the weight of the saw on, they don't come apart...
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