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Post by kraftt on Dec 3, 2017 0:02:28 GMT -5
If I cut s/g with a mafell 162 then everything else should cut away from that cut edge. A reduced flange (lathed but still re grooving ribs as before) brings other blades closer to s/g. I also like that the flange is perhaps less easily damaged, lost etc. The mafell flange is $18 + $16 ship (?) (last small item ordered was about that much in shipping) Mafell Part #er 203999 EAN4032689150284 = $34 total The Bosch flange (#49 in diagram) BSD-2605700250.A0 = Clamping Flange www.powertoolspares.com UK = $25 total USA shipped. (2pcs = $32 total shipped) But I have no idea if the Bosch flange is the same as mafell. Comparing exploded diagrams there is quite a bit of difference between saws. If parts diagrams leave nothing out - even little things like the urethane plunge retraction bumper is missing from the Bosch. * I also kind of wonder if the inner flange is generic on one or both. The outer flange looks custom is is priced accordingly. |
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Post by kraftt on Dec 17, 2017 10:59:05 GMT -5
The flange thickness measures approx 3mm now so the only issue is if the removal of 1mm leaves the reduced flange with enough integrity. (?)
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Post by holmz on Dec 17, 2017 18:17:19 GMT -5
Once the flange thickness is changed it will work for 45 and 90 degrees... and all angles in between.
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Post by kraftt on Dec 17, 2017 19:36:15 GMT -5
Once the flange thickness is changed it will work for 45 and 90 degrees... and all angles in between. If so that would be great but I think without base to rail height adjustment (either external or internal shimming) we are still stuck with the same bevel tracking design flaw. In that, if we add or subtract to flange thickness, the off center pivot point hasn't changed vertically... so when you return to 90 it should cut into s/g and when you now go back to 45º the trimmed guard has the cut too far away again. However, because the blade is moving closer to front / back pivot mechanisms, it possibly could help a little but I don't think enough. (?) |
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Post by holmz on Dec 18, 2017 7:24:20 GMT -5
The higher therail, the thicker the shim... If it is 1-mm off at 45 degrees compared to 90, then you need a 1-mm shim.  Or a -1 mm |
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Post by kraftt on Dec 18, 2017 9:37:21 GMT -5
The higher therail, the thicker the shim... If it is 1-mm off at 45 degrees compared to 90, then you need a 1-mm shim. Or a -1 mm  |
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Post by kraftt on Feb 18, 2018 14:30:16 GMT -5
Some guys testing their new MT55 18 for bevel cuts:
... and then a little dust bag demonstration:
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Post by holmz on Feb 19, 2018 4:24:36 GMT -5
I bought a new (1993) 4x4 thta I pick up in a few weeks.
So I made a box for a 12V/230v refridgerator (Engle brand) that I dropped off today at the couriers/freight depot.
I was 1/2 -pissed off that the side were ~1-mm shy of weach other and there was a 1/2-mm gap where the lid attached.
... then ....
I thought back to when I would beaver away with a 'Skil type saw'.
Bruthas we be spoiled these days (at the level of precision available.)
And it is a good thing!
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Post by mafelluser on Apr 6, 2018 15:51:45 GMT -5
Thanks for posting the videos.
In that first video, I really wish he'd have the basic commonsense to use guiderail clamps, when cutting steep angles.
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andzz
New Member
Posts: 6
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Post by andzz on Aug 24, 2019 14:15:51 GMT -5
After reading this I've just now tested mine, of which is about 10months old, and guess what, with 45 degree bevel cut it's out by 1.5mm. damm it
First thing Monday I'll call DM tools, as I purchased it from them
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Post by aas on Aug 25, 2019 3:43:04 GMT -5
After reading this I've just now tested mine, of which is about 10months old, and guess what, with 45 degree bevel cut it's out by 1.5mm. damm it
First thing Monday I'll call DM tools, as I purchased it from them
Both of mine are off by about 1mm - which seems to be the norm. Mafell messed up here, I think they're all the same. I can't be bothered to be sending them off to see what can be done. (Needs 1mm shimming under the black bevel brackets to correct 1mm drift off of the cut line.)
I rarely cut 45's so it's not a deal breaker - if it was, I would just keep a second set of rails trimmed up to 45 deg... I'd still prefer that than go back to a green saw!
It's even worse on the Festool rails - which are my preferred workshop rails - as they are 1mm or so thinner the gap is over 2mm!
Had a quick look at my other Mafell saws - the KSS40 is about 0.5mm off the rubber when at 90 deg... if I tilt it over it would eat 2 - 3mm of rubber... but then it is designed for the wafer thin crosscut rail - I must remember to never cut a 45 bevel on an F-rail!
The K65/KSS60 is spot on at 90 deg, 1mm off at 45.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 25, 2019 23:07:53 GMT -5
I am in NA. The dealer here had said they had not heard of this being an issue...I do not cut bevels that often, but it is an oversight that this issue exists with a majority of saws. The motor is newer within the last month or two and I am hoping that the bevel is fixed with new production.
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Post by ohan on Aug 26, 2019 0:57:17 GMT -5
I mean.. do they even consider it a problem? It sounds like it may be within their allowable tolerances.
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Post by aas on Aug 26, 2019 7:27:50 GMT -5
The motor is newer within the last month or two and I am hoping that the bevel is fixed with new production. I'm probably missing something in the translation... but I don't see how the new motor (only 110v US I guess?) would change the bevel mechanism. |
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 26, 2019 22:54:47 GMT -5
The motor is newer within the last month or two and I am hoping that the bevel is fixed with new production. I'm probably missing something in the translation... but I don't see how the new motor (only 110v US I guess?) would change the bevel mechanism. It wouldn't...I was just thinking if they changed the motor perhaps they adjusted the bevel issue at the same time. I ordered the sww today so shall see at the end of the week when I take delivery. I do not cut many bevels so not a deal breaker. |
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