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Post by holmz on Oct 23, 2017 16:44:51 GMT -5
Never thought of it that way. I was think the kerf being bigger but the actual plate being the same thickness. If the plate was thicker on the wider kerf then true the tooth over hang could be the same so the cutline would be the same too. Exactly... One needs to know the plate thickness... If the plates are all the same thickness, then different kerfs will result in different blade positions relative to the rail. |
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Post by arvid on Oct 23, 2017 17:15:37 GMT -5
Never thought of it that way. I was think the kerf being bigger but the actual plate being the same thickness. If the plate was thicker on the wider kerf then true the tooth over hang could be the same so the cutline would be the same too. Exactly... One needs to know the plate thickness... If the plates are all the same thickness, then different kerfs will result in different blade positions relative to the rail. the plates can be any thickness. it will still rest on the blade flange of the saw. all that comes into play is that the saw tooth extends past the saw plate the same amount on what ever kerf sized blade you are using. |
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Post by huntsgemein on Oct 24, 2017 1:27:24 GMT -5
Actually, all joking aside, you folks may be saying that the distance from the inside cutting edge to the splinter strip remains constant, and the additional width extends to the outer edge of the cut, which would not impact the splinter strip at all.....if that is the case, please excuse my mental deficiencies. I do not think it is a deficiency. if the arbor area thickness is 1-mm and the kerf 2-mm then the blade cuts 1/2-mm to the left of the arbor flange. if it is 2 and 3 mm then it is still 1/2-mm to the left. if the difference between the two thicknesses is not 1-mm then it is either further left or it is to the right. basically one needs to measure the blades to know... i do not know what the various blade options are, but I believe that I have the math(s) part correct. Spot on Holmz. It's the tooth "overhang" that counts: HALF the difference between the plate thickness & kerf width. Usually in TCT blades the teeth are brazed symetrically to the plate; ie one exactly behind the other & not staggered laterally. All good quality blades will have this info either stamped or etched on the plate or on the packaging. The basic sum is thus: (kerf width - plate thickness) / 2. This allows one to compare the distance that different blades will cut from the guide strip edge. The blade with the greatest "overhang" will be the one that cuts the guide strip lip, with all the rest (with smaller numbers) cutting proportionally offset from (or parallel to) the edge. |
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Post by kraftt on Oct 24, 2017 5:37:36 GMT -5
Though it's a good idea to measure your sample before installing if you're worried about trimming down splinter guard ...
Mafell 092584:
Listed as - (1.8mm / 1.2mm) 162 dia. ATB (48 tooth) = .3mm o.h.
sample measures - (1.95mm / 1.24mm) = .355mm o.h.
Tenryu PSW-16028CBD2:
Listed as - (2.2mm / 1.6mm) 160 dia. ATB (28 tooth) = .3mm o.h.
sample measures - (2.2mm / 1.65mm) = .275mm o.h.
Makita B-07353: (made by Tenryu) (made for A/C powered traksaw)
Listed as - (2.2mm / 1.57mm) *165mm (48 tooth) = .315 o.h.
Makita B-57342: (made by Tenryu) (Battery version blade)
Listed as - (1.45mm / 1.mm) *165 dia. (56 tooth) = .225 o.h
Bosch 2 608 642 384:
Listed as - (1.8mm / 1.3mm) *165mm ATB (48 tooth) = .25mm o.h.
sample measures - (1.85mm / 1.27mm) = .290mm o.h
Dewalt DW5258:
Listed as - (2.18mm/ 1.6mm) *165mm ATB (48 tooth) = .29mm o.h.
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Post by mafelluser on Nov 17, 2017 15:52:55 GMT -5
Ended up buying kit 2 with 2 x 1600 rails. Loving the set up compared to my old ts55r. Scoring function is great. After one kitchen though it does seem to be struggling a bit. Im wondering if ripping two solid oak drawer fronts has blunted the blade 😞 If you also use your MT55cc to cut laminate worktops, then the blade teeth may be gunked-up with resin/adhesive (and a little less sharp, now, as laminate is a blade/cutter killer). Even if you only used it to cut oak, it might alternatively be fractionally out of parallel alignment - it'd be worth you placing the saw onto the track, plunging it to full depth, and carefully checking if the blade is nearly (http://mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/post/18371/thread) the same distance from the red rubber splinter guard at both the front and rear of the blade. |
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Post by chippy1970 on Nov 17, 2017 16:02:12 GMT -5
Ended up buying kit 2 with 2 x 1600 rails. Loving the set up compared to my old ts55r. Scoring function is great. After one kitchen though it does seem to be struggling a bit. Im wondering if ripping two solid oak drawer fronts has blunted the blade 😞 If you also use your MT55cc to cut laminate worktops, then the blade teeth may be gunked-up with resin/adhesive (and a little less sharp, now, as laminate is a blade/cutter killer). Even if you only used it to cut oak, it might alternatively be fractionally out of parallel alignment - it'd be worth you placing the saw onto the track, plunging it to full depth, and carefully checking if the blade is precisely the same distance from the red rubber splinter guard at both the front and rear of the blade. Had to swap the saw anyway as I spotted a problem with the bevel mentioned on another thread. Stupidly I gave the other one back with tje sharp blade in it, should've put the blunt blade back in it. |
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