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Post by aas on Oct 15, 2017 14:13:07 GMT -5
I kept the Panther blade when I sold my TS55 - works well in the MT55. I wouldn't want to be ripping solid oak with the standard blade. Probably has taken the edge off of it.
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Post by mcnallyfamily on Oct 16, 2017 11:27:30 GMT -5
Ended up buying kit 2 with 2 x 1600 rails. Loving the set up compared to my old ts55r. Scoring function is great. After one kitchen though it does seem to be struggling a bit. Im wondering if ripping two solid oak drawer fronts has blunted the blade 😞 When I purchased my MT55cc, I also ordered the 32T Cross-Cutting Carbide Blade, along with the 16T Ripping Carbide Blade. If for no other reason, they are cheaper to have resharpened than the 48T Fine-Cutting Carbide Blade. |
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Post by chippy1970 on Oct 22, 2017 7:20:21 GMT -5
I kept the Panther blade when I sold my TS55 - works well in the MT55. I wouldn't want to be ripping solid oak with the standard blade. Probably has taken the edge off of it. That's a shame one kitchen and I've got a blunt blade  my ts55r (stehle) blades last a lot longer trouble is they're 2.2mm kerf |
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Post by holmz on Oct 22, 2017 15:21:19 GMT -5
I kept the Panther blade when I sold my TS55 - works well in the MT55. I wouldn't want to be ripping solid oak with the standard blade. Probably has taken the edge off of it. That's a shame one kitchen and I've got a blunt blade my ts55r (stehle) blades last a lot longer trouble is they're 2.2mm kerf What is the trouble with 2.2-mm kerf? |
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Post by chippy1970 on Oct 22, 2017 15:46:21 GMT -5
That's a shame one kitchen and I've got a blunt blade my ts55r (stehle) blades last a lot longer trouble is they're 2.2mm kerf What is the trouble with 2.2-mm kerf? Nothing really it'll just shave another 0.2mm off the rubber I suppose. Ok if I then stick with 2.2mm blades from then on |
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Post by mcnallyfamily on Oct 22, 2017 15:48:38 GMT -5
That's a shame one kitchen and I've got a blunt blade my ts55r (stehle) blades last a lot longer trouble is they're 2.2mm kerf What is the trouble with 2.2-mm kerf? Won't using a larger kerf blade shave off more of the splinter guard (compared to Mafell's thin blade kerf (1.8mm) ? |
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Post by holmz on Oct 22, 2017 16:33:38 GMT -5
Is the centre section of both blades the same thickness? The flange does not move... so it is the kerf width - the centre thickness that the teeth hang behind the arbor... or or with the 2.2 then "once you 2.2 you never go back" from a splinter strip trimming sense.  |
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Post by mcnallyfamily on Oct 22, 2017 19:02:02 GMT -5
Is the centre section of both blades the same thickness? The flange does not move... so it is the kerf width - the centre thickness that the teeth hang behind the arbor... or or with the 2.2 then "once you 2.2 you never go back" from a splinter strip trimming sense. Wonder what happens to the splinter strip once you use the 4T Cement-Cutting Diamond Blade? It reads DP 160 x 3.0 x 20 Z4
Does it ruin your saw forever for other users? At $386.80 each from Mafell, this is one blade I will wait to purchase once I have a specific need. The only other saw besides the MT55 this blade is compatible with is the Mafell PSS 3100 SE Portable Panel Saw, and even then Mafell points out that for first time users with the panel saw, the blade needs to be ordered with the wider Riving knife (@ $413.90). I suppose blades like this is one of the reasons Mafell sells that replacement splinter strip... |
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Post by kraftt on Oct 22, 2017 20:13:47 GMT -5
Like holmz says, it depends - Here's a Tenryu 2.2 plunged on a rail cut with the mafell 1.8 I can take a sheet of paper and snugly slide it between guard & teeth. If I let paper go it will start to slide out on its own.  |
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Post by holmz on Oct 23, 2017 0:32:38 GMT -5
Is the centre section of both blades the same thickness? The flange does not move... so it is the kerf width - the centre thickness that the teeth hang behind the arbor... or or with the 2.2 then "once you 2.2 you never go back" from a splinter strip trimming sense. Wonder what happens to the splinter strip once you use the 4T Cement-Cutting Diamond Blade? It reads DP 160 x 3.0 x 20 Z4
Does it ruin your saw forever for other users? At $386.80 each from Mafell, this is one blade I will wait to purchase once I have a specific need. The only other saw besides the MT55 this blade is compatible with is the Mafell PSS 3100 SE Portable Panel Saw, and even then Mafell points out that for first time users with the panel saw, the blade needs to be ordered with the wider Riving knife (@ $413.90). I suppose blades like this is one of the reasons Mafell sells that replacement splinter strip... How does it ruin the saw forever? Or does it just ruin the strip? In Australia Festool still (or at least a year ago were) sells their concrete blade. I have it in a box in the garage - as the last sandstone tiles I cut I used the olshun 48t and enjoyed the sparkler show. I see this: www.festoolproducts.com/cmt-236-160-04h-fiber-cement-blade-160mm-x-4-teet.htmlAnd this in Au: www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/F28291/SubProducts/F28291That later one is ~240 $US Like holmz says, it depends - Here's a Tenryu 2.2 plunged on a rail cut with the mafell 1.8 I can take a sheet of paper and snugly slide it between guard & teeth. If I let paper go it will start to slide out on its own. I was expecting a cigarette paper  |
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Post by mcnallyfamily on Oct 23, 2017 2:46:51 GMT -5
Wonder what happens to the splinter strip once you use the 4T Cement-Cutting Diamond Blade? It reads DP 160 x 3.0 x 20 Z4
Does it ruin your saw forever for other users? At $386.80 each from Mafell, this is one blade I will wait to purchase once I have a specific need. The only other saw besides the MT55 this blade is compatible with is the Mafell PSS 3100 SE Portable Panel Saw, and even then Mafell points out that for first time users with the panel saw, the blade needs to be ordered with the wider Riving knife (@ $413.90). I suppose blades like this is one of the reasons Mafell sells that replacement splinter strip... How does it ruin the saw forever? Or does it just ruin the strip? In Australia Festool still (or at least a year ago were) sells their concrete blade. I have it in a box in the garage - as the last sandstone tiles I cut I used the olshun 48t and enjoyed the sparkler show. I see this: www.festoolproducts.com/cmt-236-160-04h-fiber-cement-blade-160mm-x-4-teet.htmlAnd this in Au: www.festool.com.au/epages/tooltechnic.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/tooltechnic/Products/F28291/SubProducts/F28291That later one is ~240 $US Like holmz says, it depends - Here's a Tenryu 2.2 plunged on a rail cut with the mafell 1.8 I can take a sheet of paper and snugly slide it between guard & teeth. If I let paper go it will start to slide out on its own. I was expecting a cigarette paper Can't imagine the saw ever being happy with a thinner blade.......Once you go " Cement-Cutting Diamond Blade", you never go back. |
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Post by mcnallyfamily on Oct 23, 2017 2:51:33 GMT -5
Actually, all joking aside, you folks may be saying that the distance from the inside cutting edge to the splinter strip remains constant, and the additional width extends to the outer edge of the cut, which would not impact the splinter strip at all.....if that is the case, please excuse my mental deficiencies.
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Post by kraftt on Oct 23, 2017 8:41:20 GMT -5
Think of where the saw blade plate hits the arbor as the only distance constant in regards to the rail. Now ponder the thickness of the plate used by different blade designs and how the tooth pattern is centered to the plate width / thickness. It will depend on blade geometry … so for whatever blade you originally cut the s.g. with find the amount/distance the teeth overhang the edge of the plate. image |
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Post by chippy1970 on Oct 23, 2017 16:06:07 GMT -5
Never thought of it that way. I was think the kerf being bigger but the actual plate being the same thickness. If the plate was thicker on the wider kerf then true the tooth over hang could be the same so the cutline would be the same too.
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Post by holmz on Oct 23, 2017 16:42:37 GMT -5
Actually, all joking aside, you folks may be saying that the distance from the inside cutting edge to the splinter strip remains constant, and the additional width extends to the outer edge of the cut, which would not impact the splinter strip at all.....if that is the case, please excuse my mental deficiencies. I do not think it is a deficiency. if the arbor area thickness is 1-mm and the kerf 2-mm then the blade cuts 1/2-mm to the left of the arbor flange. if it is 2 and 3 mm then it is still 1/2-mm to the left. if the difference between the two thicknesses is not 1-mm then it is either further left or it is to the right. basically one needs to measure the blades to know... i do not know what the various blade options are, but I believe that I have the math(s) part correct. |
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my ts55r (stehle) blades last a lot longer trouble is they're 2.2mm kerf
