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Post by calidecks on May 25, 2017 23:14:29 GMT -5
@ Calidecks: I can totally see how/why the Festool bag works well, given that its internal wire frame sensibly ensures that the bag is kept fully expanded, to allow good passive flow of dust from the saw dust chute into the back of the bag. However, it irritates the heck out of me that Festool screw, screw, screw, and screw some more, on the pricing of their primary and their accessory products - to which I say, in return: "well, screw you, too, Festool!" ;-) ...Speaking of which, I was comparing the price of the Kapex 'miterfast' angle finder (goniometer), earlier this morning, and was, not for the first time, absolutely disgusted with the pricing - more than triple that of the YoungCo OneShot or BORA MiteriX angle finders / goniometers... I despair of Festool - a company with such enormous potential, scuppered by greed. [/End Rant] Anyway, I ordered a very cheap mitre saw dust bag, and I will upload a pic of it attached to my MT55CC when I receive it through the mail. Here's the one I ordered - unfortunately, it has a feeble internal wire frame that doesn't expand the bag enough, but I intend to modify it a little, probably using a coat-hanger. For the money, it's a no-brainer, as it's ridiculously cheap and won't hurt my wallet if it turns out to not work well with the MT55CC: www.evolutionstore.co.uk/accessories/dustbags/lgmodels.phpIt 100% definitely fits the MT55CC, as my dad has the exact same dustbag on his Evolution mitre saw, so I've been able to temporarily fit it to my MT55CC (without doing any sawing). Cheers, everyone, for all the suggestions, and I'll report back on whether it's a success or a damp squib ;-) Zip ties are your friend. |
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Post by calidecks on May 25, 2017 23:31:39 GMT -5
As some of you may already have seen. I had a bigger bag made for my 40. Also had a zipper put on it. My tailor did a wonderful job.  |
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Post by mafelluser on May 27, 2017 7:40:08 GMT -5
The cheap Evolution dustbag I ordered has arrived - it is, admittedly, a little smaller than I'd like (though many mitre saw bags are equally as small), but I only need it for occasional use, when vacuum isn't an option. For £8 GBP, inclusive of postage, I can't complain!   I don't have one to hand, right now, but I will be cutting the bottom 4 inches off a 2 litre plastic drink bottle, to insert it into the rear portion, inside the dustbag, hooking it over the tip of the wire frame, so as to keep the bag easily expanded. Quick, simple, and cheap. |
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Post by kraftt on May 27, 2017 7:59:52 GMT -5
Looks like a good option. My guess is that it should work well since the bag clamps over the swivel port without reduction.
How’s the finger pinch spring clamp (if that’s what is uses)? i.e. does it fit snug or is it easy to pull off, does it support the bag firmly or does it fall a bit?
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Post by mafelluser on May 27, 2017 9:25:04 GMT -5
How’s the finger pinch spring clamp (if that’s what is uses)? i.e. does it fit snug or is it easy to pull off, does it support the bag firmly or does it fall a bit? Yes, it does use the typical finger-pinch spring-clamp. I'm not going to say this dustbag is mind-blowingly amazing (the brand new dustbag visible on the imminent Mafell cordless version of the '55, or the Festool dustbag, would probably be superior) but the Evo bag strikes a perfectly acceptable balance, for occasional usage. Fits snugly, without letting the bag droop Stays exactly where you put it (rotationally and lengthways on the MT55 spiggot) Because the spring-clamp fits so snugly (a good thing, IMO), it's a little reluctant when it comes to deliberately removing it from the machine, but that's easily solved by allowing the two thumb-tabs to travel past each other a little too far, at which point, it slides off very nicely. All in all, it's the best £8 I've spent in a while. |
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Post by holmz on May 27, 2017 18:01:35 GMT -5
As some of you may already have seen. I had a bigger bag made for my 40. Also had a zipper put on it. My tailor did a wonderful job. I was expecting the envelope to say Katella or Orangethorpe. Did you want that in e picture? |
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Post by kraftt on May 27, 2017 18:11:42 GMT -5
( good advertising, I have clients up in L.A. if any of them need a deck I'm calling & subbing cali )
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Post by calidecks on May 27, 2017 19:24:27 GMT -5
As some of you may already have seen. I had a bigger bag made for my 40. Also had a zipper put on it. My tailor did a wonderful job.  I was expecting the envelope to say Katella or Orangethorpe. Did you want that in e picture? Actually it was done purposely to show a size comparison. That Lumberyard is on Ball Rd. Up the street from Disneyland. |
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Post by calidecks on May 27, 2017 19:28:50 GMT -5
Fixed it  |
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Post by holmz on May 28, 2017 16:16:34 GMT -5
I removed it in my quote, but it is still upstream in your first quote of mine.
Not sure it matters ? But I also doubt people troll here looking for who to hire.
More just making you aware of how it happens.
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Post by kraftt on Jul 6, 2017 17:41:10 GMT -5
Well I had a light bulb moment and made a DIY dustbag, but since I don't use dustbags that often I have a question about material and fine dust.
When you use the Festool or mafell dustbag, cutting mdf / fine waste particulate etc, how much escapes from the pores of the material if you shake it? i.e. does it act like a powdered-sugar duster to some degree if you tap it against something? Does the fine dust start to coat the outside of the material with a fine layer under normal use? The material I chose is working well, better than say a porous leaky makita bag, but I'm wondering if I should be looking for some high-tech material if the Festool shows good containment while still allowing breathability.
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Post by kraftt on Jul 12, 2017 15:25:14 GMT -5
© Here's what I made: the MufellFirst attempt purposely put hole through lid because it was flat. Though I wanted screw top to be in back so you didn't need to remove from saw, just hold over trash can and dump. It didn't required any sewing because I used a wet-vac sponge filter with wire ties. Patted myself on shoulder until i ran sawdust through it and fine dust blew out (not that much but enough). Maybe a denser less breathable sponge filter will work(?)  Next effort, salvaging same parts, put new screw lid on back (had to melt bottom of canister with heat gun to flatten area and tilt a bit for cutting flat hole for fitting. this also angles it up in the air a bit when weighted down full of sawdust). This time I used speaker grill cloth, had it sewn into a tube much smaller in diameter than canister so all I had to do was stretch it over and tuck in ends. Doesn't look as cool as first one but works fine. Haven't had time to do much testing but it's legit.  Here's the fun part, printed out a pattern and drilled into canister. I chose PET plastic because it is so much more rigid than PE but cleaning up the holes requires some busy work with a pipe deburring tool. Total cost if you have a canister laying around about $11 in parts. I purposely didn't drill holes full circumference meaning lowest side of dust bag has no holes. Adapter fittings are all wider than mafell exit port.   Once grey rubber reducing adapter is fastened to white PVC there is no need to glue pvc to lid or canister because the pipe clamp pushes out grey rubber adapter very tight thereby making a compression fitting between lid or canister wall and pvc flange (be sure and trim down pvc adapter so that it goes as much inside grey rubber reducer but still is covered). Lids from similar diameter sized used canisters, even different blow mold manufacturers, seem to all fit each other.  fits inside T-max box with saw (corded version) and I suppose you can store some items inside canister too. --------------------------------------------------- edit / update: Been using it a while and I really like it. The containers I used changed their mfg but not color or basic design except for bottom of canister so I made another one instead of throwing canister away. The newer style had a concave bottom so all you have to do is push it out to convex. Additionally in between time I bought a new step drill bit and the sharpness was all the difference in not having to deburr plastic or sand - comes out super clean. This means that making them is much faster easier. The extra angle of the convex bottom also increases angle of dust-bag/canister so that any sagging from weight maxes out (full weighted) at an angle still raised well above rail / cutting surface (level). Also routed the mouth of the grey rubber plumbing fitting (shown below) with a inside radius to more easily slip onto saw port one handed. All exposed white pvc fittings shown are stock, I've since shortened them to what seen with radius'd grey rubber fitting (also shortened) mounted on top in photos below. Also made new holes 2 steps larger after learning it doesn't weaken it.   |
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Post by calidecks on Jul 12, 2017 21:46:05 GMT -5
© Here's what I made: the MufellFirst attempt purposely put hole through lid because it was flat. Though I wanted screw top to be in back so you didn't need to remove from saw, just hold over trash can and dump. It didn't required any sewing because I used a wet-vac sponge filter with wire ties. Patted myself on shoulder until i ran sawdust through it and fine dust blew out (not that much but enough). Maybe a denser less breathable sponge filter will work(?) View AttachmentNext effort, salvaging same parts, put new screw lid on back (had to melt bottom of canister with heat gun to flatten area and tilt a bit for cutting flat hole for fitting. this also angles it up in the air a bit when weighted down full of sawdust). This time I used speaker grill cloth, had it sewed into a tube much smaller in diameter than canister so all I had to do was stretch it over and tuck in ends. Doesn't look as cool as first one but works fine. Haven't had time to do much testing but it's legit. View AttachmentHere's the fun part, printed out a pattern and drilled into canister. I chose PET plastic because it is so much more rigid than PE but cleaning up the holes requires some busy work with a pipe deburring tool. Total cost if you have a canister laying around about $11 in parts. I purposely didn't drill holes full circumference meaning lowest side of dust bag has no holes. Adapter fittings are all wider than mafell exit port. View AttachmentView AttachmentOnce grey rubber reducing adapter is fastened to white PVC there is no need to glue pvc to lid or canister because the pipe clamp pushes out grey rubber adapter very tight thereby making a compression fitting between lid or canister wall and pvc flange (be sure and trim down pvc adapter so that it goes as much inside grey rubber reducer but still is covered). Lids from similar diameter sized used canisters, but not necessarily same blow mold manufacturer, will all fit each other. View Attachmentfits inside T-max box with saw (corded version) and I suppose you can store some items inside canister too. Nice, Kraftt! |
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Post by kraftt on Jul 12, 2017 22:08:51 GMT -5
Thanks Cali, though I'd much rather have the new mafell bag. But at least, like the latest mafell bag with that cool flip open latch, this diy setup doesn't use zippers or a slide bar.
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Post by tablefulfads on Nov 21, 2019 4:40:34 GMT -5
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