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Post by aas on Aug 13, 2016 15:28:08 GMT -5
This fits into my work flow as cordless.
I had about 10 battery platforms, it became a bit too much. So slimming down to just 3 battery platforms, eventually 2.
Mains tools for heavy work, but the KSS40 will be for light work, so cordless suits perfectly, plus I already have the Metabo batts.
Despite the HKC being brilliant, I do not like the FS rails at all - so the switch is to be free of Festool battery platform which offers nothing unique for me, and to be free of FS tracks.
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Post by erik on Aug 13, 2016 16:54:28 GMT -5
It might sound strange, but I would recommend an MF26 @ 230v for the price. Easy wiring for a shop where you may already have that service for your lager equipment and you get a 5 in 1 saw. Track saw, dado cutter, guide bow and guided and grove cutter. You may not need all those but the dado and tack saw capabilities already make it worth the price.
For all you deeper and beveled cuts you have the 80.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 13, 2016 18:04:02 GMT -5
That is a thought and I have looked at the MF26 -- would be a very cool tool as well. How is the weight?
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Post by jozsefkozma on Aug 13, 2016 20:41:10 GMT -5
My HKC is celebrating its one year birthday
I know I would have never tried it had the Mafell
been available anyplace but
I will be at tool nut next week and check out which corded
saw to get
My HKC is the go to saw for the past year very happy
With performance
What I see is this saws are for owners to be used
I can not see providing this saws to my employees
All my friends in the trade say the same thing
This saws and tracks have to bee clean , the blades
Have to be sharp
Otherwise it doesn't last l
i purchased a used 300 and am happy with performance
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Post by nucone on Aug 14, 2016 8:33:30 GMT -5
I have the KSS300 which has been great but not the best choice for deck construction. I did get to use the cordless HK55C at the Festool roadshow back in April. At almost half the price of the Mafell equivalent, it is very tempting. I am not sure about the cordless version of anything except for drills/impact drivers/etc.
I am interested in what is wrong with the Festool 18V batteries. I don't have any 18v Festool and user experience is the most valuable input since that is reality and not hype.
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Post by erik on Aug 14, 2016 12:10:25 GMT -5
That is a thought and I have looked at the MF26 -- would be a very cool tool as well. How is the weight? The bulbous blade housing makes it appear larger and heavier but I would say its the same size motor housing, may be identical, to the mt55 but it has a bit more weight, especially with the dado stack. It also plunges just like the 55 and has the same blade changing equipment. On the kss rail, it noticeably heavier than the 400 and lighter than to 80-with the dado stack, which has some heft compared to the single blade. |
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 14, 2016 12:29:12 GMT -5
I have the KSS300 which has been great but not the best choice for deck construction. I did get to use the cordless HK55C at the Festool roadshow back in April. At almost half the price of the Mafell equivalent, it is very tempting. I am not sure about the cordless version of anything except for drills/impact drivers/etc. I am interested in what is wrong with the Festool 18V batteries. I don't have any 18v Festool and user experience is the most valuable input since that is reality and not hype. Why? No blade brake or just capacity issues? |
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Post by nucone on Aug 14, 2016 16:55:42 GMT -5
I have the KSS300 which has been great but not the best choice for deck construction. I did get to use the cordless HK55C at the Festool roadshow back in April. At almost half the price of the Mafell equivalent, it is very tempting. I am not sure about the cordless version of anything except for drills/impact drivers/etc. I am interested in what is wrong with the Festool 18V batteries. I don't have any 18v Festool and user experience is the most valuable input since that is reality and not hype. Why? No blade brake or just capacity issues? Depth of cut capacity on 2x stock. |
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Post by GhostFist on Aug 14, 2016 17:40:19 GMT -5
I cut 2x with mine all the time. It won't bevel it through, but most of my cuts aren't beveled. If decking was my bread and butter I'd go for the 60 or 400. It's not though, so my 40 is just the trick. Me I'm eyeing the 80 for complex rafters, cutting multiples at once, and cutting tgi's, that's another topic of course and I'm in no rush for that
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 14, 2016 23:27:31 GMT -5
Thanks. All these choices - I guess it goes to show that having the right tool for the job is what is best. Each saw seems to have its main purpose with some overlap, but none is the best of all.
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Post by lucian on Sept 20, 2016 0:15:05 GMT -5
Hello there glad to see an opened discussion about the pro and cons between kss400 and the new hk55 or hkc55. I have had my kss400 for about six months and have used it a lot specially for cutting rafters on a custom home.Love the saw but there are a few things that really bothers me. The most annoying is the plunging system witch seems to be stuck most of the time or not working properly. The other one is the locking system for bevel. I have to be very kind and careful when I use them almost being afraid not to brake them. Any of you have the same problems with yours. All that being said I am thinking of trying the new HK55 to see if is any better(being satisfied with my other festool tools).  |
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 20, 2016 7:06:01 GMT -5
Took me a while to get used to the parallel rise and fall plunge system on my 300. I did get used to it and I like it as it allows me to slowly plunge with greater control than with a pivot system like the ts saws or mt55. Or at least I feel that way. Strange about the hk saws is they plunge pivoting on the toe of the base rather than the heel. I don't know how this feels in use. Setting depth on the go is fast and easy wether in plunge mode or it's fixed depth mode. The UK has a single lock off for beveling like the mt55 so that's a plus. Try one out, see what you think.
Are you using your 400 mainly for rafters? Do you find you are limited in the capabilities such as depth of cut, bevel angle capability or miter angles?
I'm just curious as there seemed to be some huffing and puffing about the hks ability in these departments over on the fog. Myself I only occasionally cut rafters (thought I've been doing a lot of them this year) and I can do 90%of them with my kss40. Essentially I don't know what they're whining about.
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Post by jozsefkozma on Sept 20, 2016 9:42:51 GMT -5
Love my 300 but in this area Lumber seems to be greener (thicker)
Light and multifunction (wish it was the 40)
HKC great on rail cuts thrue 2X material light and mobile
Not enough power of the rail
HK light !!! , great on rails , great for bench work
The 400 is more solid but the weight kept me away
The 60 or80 will be next if job calls for when accuracy with worm drive power is
Needed
The right tool for the job makes things easier
Hope Tool nut gets more tools to choose from
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 20, 2016 10:11:49 GMT -5
Sorry are you saying the hkc does not have enough power when used free hand? Can you elaborate?
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Post by jozsefkozma on Sept 20, 2016 17:56:32 GMT -5
I am using it on track only , framing , siding ,
3/4"X10 bevel siding
Great accuracy because o f track
Battarie will last a good amount of time
Struggling with wet 2x10 and wet pt
Of track drains battery and struggles
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