Q2) Is the combination of TF and sticks just cheaper, or is there some advantage one way or the other? Like can one use better insulation with TF and wider panels or are closer spaced beams required for the insulation to stay put?
Q3) How thick and what R value is that Roxal insulation? What would one use on an all TF?
The designer that I work with tries to keep the costs down by reserving the timber work for the areas where it will make the most visual impact. Typically this is in the roof framing with some key timber accents in other areas. There is always a timber framed screened porch and also a timber covered entry.
We use standard stud wall framing as its cheaper than using timbers with SIPs (structural insulated panels). I've never done an all timber frame build or used SIPs before so I'm trusting the designer when he says that they would be more expensive than standard stud walls. I expect that he is correct in this or I would look into SIPs. My background is standard framing, I've been incorporating timber framing for only the last 5 years.
The Roxul is 1.5" thick with an R-value of 6. We put R 24 fibreglass batt insulation in the walls.
I haven't priced the SIPs so I don't know for sure about the material costs and because I've never worked with them I can't say for certain about the labour to install them compared with standard framing. From what I've heard they are more expensive on both counts but have the potential to be very energy efficient when done properly because there is no thermal bridging like there is with stud walls.
I know the electrical is much easier (therefore cheaper) with standard wall framing.
In regards to foundation style it really depends on what the ground is like where you're building and if you want a basement. I've done many different foundation types over the years, it really depends on the individual situation and personal preferences. I like a basement, especially if there is enough slope to the lot to have one side a walk-out for more windows and natural light. Pouring the concrete on bedrock eliminates the possibility of settling although a footing or slab foundation works just fine if done properly.
A good designer is a valuable asset to any project and a bad designer can be an expensive nightmare...
I cut a shoulder around the joist and insert that into the beam pocket. This is so that when the joist shrinks the shoulder hides the gap. This method also allows for a less-than-perfect beam pocket. If the joist didn't have the shoulder then the beam pocket would have to be perfect or it wouldn't look nice. We drive GRK RSS structural screws from the top of the beam on an angle down into the joist to keep the joints together. The screws can't be seen. I use the same procedure for attaching purlins to rafters.
All of my timbers (red pine) come rough sawn and green. We plane them smooth, but they are not perfectly square or perfectly consistent in size. We need to make the joints as nice as possible and do this efficiently to keep the project costs in check.
What concerns me about the Arunda dovetail jig is that when the joist shrinks the dovetail will no longer be tight enough to prevent the joint from pulling apart. If another method needs to be used to keep the joint secure (like a GRK), then I see no point to purchasing the Arunda. I could very well be missing something in this though...
The beam will also shrink but that will contribute to the loosening of the joint. The shrinkage happens over the width of the timbers (very little over the length) so both parts of the joint essentially pull away from each other as they shrink. I've read that if the joint is properly wedged the pressure created by the wedges will compensate for the shrinkage. I've never tried it so I don't know how well it works. I don't believe that the Arunda jig is designed to allow space for wedges to be inserted, although I'm not sure on this.
I've attached a picture of a drawing from a book I own by Steve Chappell "A Timber Framer's Workshop". It's a great book.
abdon: I stand corrected , the angle fence is only attaches with F -Tracks , what confused me was , that the Timberwolf site mentioned it will work with the NFU machine, yes it will work but only I guess when you use the Ftrack , with other tracks Like the KSS L.
Nov 28, 2020 22:52:01 GMT -5
glynnco: Did you order from GereedschapPro? I see them as in stock but I'm located in the US and am not sure if they ship here. I sent them an email asking about shipping but it was returned undeliverable...
Dec 10, 2020 7:37:40 GMT -5
jonathan: I've purchased a lot of stuff from our neighbours @ GereedschapPro.nl As far as I know they are one of the larger Mafell dealers in the EU. I can recommend them, they usually respond quickly.
Dec 11, 2020 13:58:36 GMT -5
NFU 50 Transportation?: Hi Guys, is there some Systainer for the NFU 50?
Dec 11, 2020 14:30:12 GMT -5
frezik24: Hello everyone
Dec 13, 2020 9:20:00 GMT -5
lasse: Thanks for the tip! I have own a mafell rail which is 160 cm and one that is 80 cm. Will it work just as well or will I need to buy rail that is 110 cm?
Mar 18, 2021 15:35:15 GMT -5