|
Post by neth27 on Dec 21, 2013 16:16:35 GMT -5
I have been using the Kss300 for a few weeks now... I think its brilliant. Flooring, skirting, stud work, doors.. All with one tiny little saw. And i have not even used the flexi rail yet John..
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Dec 21, 2013 17:08:28 GMT -5
Flex rail is great for a quick cross cut but just note you should have the entire rail supported. A bit of droop on the rail and you run the risk of cutting into it upon exiting the material. I like to keep my thumb on the front of the saw base when entering material as well just to ensure its getting proper contact with the rails protrusions for guidance.
Don't ask me how I know about cutting into the rail.......
|
|
|
Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 21, 2013 19:02:53 GMT -5
Glad you're happy with the little saw
|
|
luzzy
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by luzzy on Feb 7, 2014 19:49:15 GMT -5
Last night was the first little test for the KSS-300. We did a fixture wall install at The Dream hotel in NYC . I needed to rip a cherry plywood return that had been doubled up to create a reveal - so 1 1/2" thick . It was approximately 11' of ripping. I made three pencil marks and unravelled the flexi rail in a service corridor. Wow. The flex rail works amazingly. Every time I ran out of rail , i simply advanced to the next pencil line and overlapped my rip by 8" or so using the kerf as my set point on one end and the pencil line on the other. Due to the plastic lock on the end of the rail , it is necessary to overlap the cut a bit so the rail begins to flatten to the work you are cutting , engaging the raised guide nubs(is there a proper term for these?)on the saw base. Plenty of power and a perfect cut. This saw is one that I can see will get a lot of use.
What size adapter fits over the dust extraction port ? Anyone know? I didn't bring a Vac but I can tell the extraction must be fantastic as almost all the dust seemed to funnel out of the port.
|
|
|
Post by Tom Gensmer on Feb 7, 2014 20:21:35 GMT -5
Luzzy, my Festool D27 hose (27mm) hose fits over the KSS300 dust port very nicely, I believe that the Mafell hoses have a 27mm hose end as well. If you already have a Fes vac you're set.
If not, and you're not planning on getting a Festool (or other high-end) vac any time soon, I'd recommend getting the Festool non-Anti Static hose (gray), D27. Much less expensive, and should work with any Ridgid or Shop Vac brand vacuum.
Hope this helps!
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Feb 7, 2014 20:34:23 GMT -5
27 mm hose fits over the port. You are going to love the versatility of this guy.
|
|
luzzy
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by luzzy on Feb 8, 2014 3:02:55 GMT -5
Luzzy, my Festool D27 hose (27mm) hose fits over the KSS300 dust port very nicely, I believe that the Mafell hoses have a 27mm hose end as well. If you already have a Fes vac you're set. If not, and you're not planning on getting a Festool (or other high-end) vac any time soon, I'd recommend getting the Festool non-Anti Static hose (gray), D27. Much less expensive, and should work with any Ridgid or Shop Vac brand vacuum. Hope this helps! I have a CT26 and was thinking of getting a Midi for Jobsite work , so that would be perfect. I had a feeling it was 27mm but my vac was not handy to check , so thanks for confirming - much appreciated!
|
|
|
Post by 7 on Feb 9, 2014 2:17:23 GMT -5
What size adapter fits over the dust extraction port ? Anyone know? I didn't bring a Vac but I can tell the extraction must be fantastic as almost all the dust seemed to funnel out of the port.This is one thing that amazes me about Mafell engineering- the saws are so well designed that even with nothing but the blade turning makes almost all the dust flow where it is supposed to without suction- Your right on…add the vac and you almost see no dust. Even the jigsaw keeps the dust completely off the cut line- amazing with a non spinning blade.
|
|
luzzy
Junior Member
Posts: 91
|
Post by luzzy on Mar 10, 2014 21:02:33 GMT -5
I had another opportunity to make good use of this saw today. The fixture manufacturer for the store we're building , sent prehung dressing room doors with casing applied on one side( square stock) and 4" of scribe room on the jamb legs. The KSS made short easy work of this with simple , clean crosscuts on the casing and then the ability to easily cut the jambs with the door sitting on horses. I will post some short videos when I have a moment ...
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Mar 10, 2014 21:15:23 GMT -5
I've done this a couple of times. It never ceases to amaze me the utility of this saw.
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Mar 27, 2014 17:49:59 GMT -5
300 saves the day again! plunged out some holes for vent grating (approx 5" x 48") in some counter tops today. Material was oak veneer 3/4" particle board already finished. Just to be safe i knifed the perimeter to prevent chip out, there's a small "woops" in my roll up track and I need a new splinter strip for it but in a test cut it did pretty darn good without knifing. the small blade diameter allowed me to get a full depth plunge in the 5" section and I just finished the corners with a fine kerf jap saw. The shop was planning on rough cutting the hole with one of their crap jigsaws then template routing and rasping out the corners. I said "no I'll just use this", they reply " oh ya, I forgot you're Robo-Carp"
|
|
|
Post by garch on Mar 27, 2014 18:42:49 GMT -5
Would like to see photos. Sounds like a great application.
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Mar 27, 2014 20:07:40 GMT -5
I'll see if I can sneak a few tomorrow. Problem is I work on film sets so taking pictures isn't really kosher. This isn't necessarily key set stuff so it should be ok, but it is for "Harvey Specter's" office. TV show, "SUITS"
|
|
|
Post by 7 on Mar 27, 2014 23:07:20 GMT -5
300 saves the day again! plunged out some holes for vent grating (approx 5" x 48") in some counter tops today. Material was oak veneer 3/4" particle board already finished. Just to be safe i knifed the perimeter to prevent chip out, there's a small "woops" in my roll up track and I need a new splinter strip for it but in a test cut it did pretty darn good without knifing. the small blade diameter allowed me to get a full depth plunge in the 5" section and I just finished the corners with a fine kerf jap saw. The shop was planning on rough cutting the hole with one of their crap jigsaws then template routing and rasping out the corners. I said "no I'll just use this", they reply " oh ya, I forgot you're Robo-Carp" I had a good 300 day today as well, saved the day. I had to hang 15 fairly standard interior doors in an older house being completely remodeled. Only two doors were ready to install without any surgery. All others had to have the jambs shortened and 5 or 6 had to have the doors cut down too. Cutting the jambs down took about 1 minute each- measure, mark cut, flip, measure, mark, cut. To cut the door slab down I just laid the door down flat opened it all the way and ran the flex rail right on the door without ever taking the door off the hinges. It saved a lot of time and even made a sort of crappy job a bit fun. The tiny saw plowed through the doors with no problem.
|
|
jayd
New Member
Posts: 15
|
Post by jayd on Apr 2, 2014 7:10:52 GMT -5
Have to agree with everything everyone says about this little beauty. I'm awaiting arrival of my MT55, but in the meantime I'm building a kitchen with 40mm solid oak worksurfaces. I know this is a bit much for the little guy, but have plunged cutouts for sink and hob, a bit slow, but she didn't really grumble. Have used it for maybe 50% of the job so far, I am sooooo impressed. One point though guys, is it me, or does the effectiveness of the non slip underside of the flexiguide deteriorate? Should it be cleaned with any special solution? Mine does not seam to stick as nicely as when new.
|
|