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Post by hemdale on Dec 5, 2015 19:00:58 GMT -5
Indeed. I might give the Veritas butt chisel a try. Maybe a 25mm
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 5, 2015 19:22:08 GMT -5
Let us know what you think. I'm itchin to try the Veritas PM-V11 chisels.
I find but chisels too short for my taste, tho they may be perfect for you.
John
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Post by Red on Dec 6, 2015 0:00:17 GMT -5
I've used many different brands and types of chisels since I cut my first TF joint back on the farm, Hemdale. What type of work are you planning to do?
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Post by tymbian on Dec 6, 2015 15:13:37 GMT -5
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Post by hemdale on Dec 7, 2015 2:48:50 GMT -5
Red: I'm not a woodworker per say but my goal would be to install inges and so on. Technically, my hands aren't big and I don't really hold the chisel by the handle but more by the tip for a more precise work. Maybe I'm doing it wrong.
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Post by Red on Dec 7, 2015 4:34:54 GMT -5
I'm not really sure if there's a definitive "right" or "wrong" when it comes to handling a chisel, Hemdale. It reads as if you're not removing lots of waste wood, as is commonly done when cutting traditional timber frame (TF) joinery, but, rather, that you're concerned with finer work...just a little a time, if you will.
When it comes to TF joinery, light/fine wood removal is usually referred to as "paring to the line" or [simply] "paring." When I use my Barr framing chisels for paring, for example, I keep the beveled side of the tip down with my [gloved] left hand gripping the chisel itself -- not too far back from the cutting edge. The cutting action/force, conversely, comes from my [dominant] right hand, which is gripping the chisel's wooden handle. Generally speaking, there is very little mallet work involved when one is paring with a sharp framing chisel.
Believe it or not, longer chisels give one better control when it comes to paring. When it comes to small work, however, really long chisels become a bit impractical. The point is that you shouldn't choose chisels that are too short, but rather chisels that are as long as you can put to practical use. If you're serious about a set of high-quality bench chisels -- and are not overly concerned with your money going toward appearance -- give Barr Quarton a look. The Barr brand chisels, whether framing chisels or bench chisels, are hand-forged and, when kept properly sharpened and honed, will give the user many years of high-quality use.
As an alternative, I'd suggest looking into Japanese chisels. I know a highly-regarded TF joint cutter who makes a good living with Japanese chisels, but he's also put a lot of time, money and energy into developing a sharpening station. Why? Because this type of chisel is harder to maintain and sharpen properly.
Just write back if you have any more questions or thoughts on the matter. By the way, I retired from the electrical field, so feel free to send me a PM if you have any electrically-related questions about any type of Mafell power tools.
Good luck to you, Red
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Post by holmz on Dec 7, 2015 5:23:16 GMT -5
Red : I'm not a woodworker per say but my goal would be to install inges and so on. Technically, my hands aren't big and I don't really hold the chisel by the handle but more by the tip for a more precise work. Maybe I'm doing it wrong. Sometime the tip and on the handle gives a good method. It allows one to cut/saw and slide the tool at an angle. (If it works then it is good)
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Post by hemdale on Dec 9, 2015 16:25:24 GMT -5
Thanks Red. I have some electricity related questions for you. Let me upload some pictures first
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Post by hemdale on Dec 9, 2015 16:31:32 GMT -5
Hi Red. This one is for you ! I saw this connectors today. As you can see their are from Festool. My idea is to remove the long cord from my P1cc and put this instead. I know this would void the 3 years warranty. ![](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/09/638ea59270787091946142eacc45b420.jpg) ![](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/09/c4732a1da9f745e46b158ff7dbb10ee9.jpg) And then, connected to the regular Festool cord. ![](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/09/eda4242120ef62565b59ed320fb599ca.jpg) ![](http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/12/09/9a85255996859160d0551a5008cea5e6.jpg) What d'ya think buddy ?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 9, 2015 16:36:32 GMT -5
I'm no expert on this leave to red , but probably do so can replace the original cable if needed
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 9, 2015 19:35:20 GMT -5
Can't comment officially but as I understand, the neutrik connectors are better sealed and more secure. The only advantage to plug it connectors would be swapping power from other festool.
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Post by Red on Dec 9, 2015 21:24:28 GMT -5
(Now that we can afford them) I've become a Mafell believer. We now own more than one of their tools, but working with the KSS80Ec/370 alone has sold me on the brand! Hands down, the best general carpentry saw I've ever used.
So what's the point? The point is that I don't own any Festool power tools and, considering what I'm continually learning about Mafell carpentry tools, I really don't think I'll be needing any. There's only one of their tools that I think might be a better design than its Mafell counterpart...and that's the big OF 2200 EB, which is based solely on Mr. Tool Junkie's experience.
This being the case, I don't know much about the Festool product in your photos...and, now that I'm sold on Mafell carpentry tools, I've become quite experienced with Neutrik connectors and, more importantly, how they can be put to very good use with 230V Mafell power tools. In fact, we own the tool you mentioned, the P1cc, and it's been a Neutrik supplied mini beast for quite some time now.
Here's a photo that tells the story better than I can: If any of this is of any interest to you, Hemdale, use the "Messages" link (above) -- in the blue bar just below the fantastic photo of the KSS80Ec/370 -- and send me a personal message. Au revoir, mon frère! Red
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Post by holmz on Dec 10, 2015 5:05:06 GMT -5
I "did the Red" on mine - but as yellow. So I could in theory take my tools to Red's and use his US-220v cord into my tools, or he could plug my Au male-ended cord in if he brought his here. I am even thinking about putting a Neutrik on the end of a plug-it. First the Nuetrik are about 4x better than a plug it, secondly they are also not as expensive, and lastly you do not have to redo the entire cord when an end gets buggered. ![](https://farm1.staticflickr.com/724/22039675614_a62d231f5a_z.jpg) Two 14' cords and one 75'. One of the 2 14' are now on a FT vac hose, the other for not on the vac, and the long one when I am on walkabout.
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Post by hemdale on Jan 19, 2016 16:58:13 GMT -5
Back to the original topic: just received my first proper chisel a Veritas PMV11 butt chisel. Super sharp out of the box, no lapping needed and light saber bevel edges. ![???](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/huh.png) ![???](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/huh.png) ??
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jan 19, 2016 18:03:30 GMT -5
And the question is?
John
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