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Post by GhostFist on Jun 7, 2013 14:10:31 GMT -5
Sound suggestions. I don't personally do a lot of drywall. But could see using the track saw would be handy in certain spots.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jun 7, 2013 16:15:09 GMT -5
Whilst on the subject of cutting plasterboard to get the straightest cut with just using the knife I use the off side of the F rails then dress the edge with a surform but not past the cut line it gives the straightest cut but is a bit dusty I have worked on jobs doing drywall for months on end. Saves having to run your finger down the edge of the sheets holding the tape and knife against the tape, which after a few weeks where's the skin of your finger till it's got a blister.
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 7, 2013 19:28:10 GMT -5
Been there brother.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 17, 2014 17:45:59 GMT -5
Going to be picking up an mf26cc for a trial period will let people know what I think
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 17, 2014 18:00:44 GMT -5
If you could whip off some video as well that would be a bonus! Such a strange tool.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 17, 2014 18:44:14 GMT -5
I intend to do some video and some comparison video of how it's normal done on site here like doing Window ingoes which can be time consuming. You spend all your time getting right then some taper comes along and whacks too much skim of the corner and builds the corner up off the square same at the external corners on the walls also maybe Going to be picking up a couple of the 1m extension table rails for the Erika to assist when doing wide rips on the Erika got a good deal on them as have been used for a display demonstration. £70 instead of £110+vat. Then I will make up a ply table to fit
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 19, 2014 1:21:43 GMT -5
Picked up a demonstration model of the mf36/400 from the Saw center in Glasgow for a weeks trial and to see how I like the machine. The machine has been supplied with the expanding groove cutter, 90 degree v groove cutter, a saw blade and the slot cutters . First impression is it feels like a solid piece of kit and built to work day in day out and take it in its stride  Attachments:
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Post by jalvis on Jan 19, 2014 13:15:07 GMT -5
Nice!
I wonder if that V-groove cutter can do miter folding?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 19, 2014 14:48:59 GMT -5
Possibly but not sure I have wondered the same for skirting I have done a couple of videos will post when downloaded I think people with the mt55 will find very familiar to use I like the way you lock the blade and the door open and have full access. Also the micro adjustment us a great feature and essential to 0 the cutter when changing to a different type of cutter I have done a couple of videos one showing just simply cutting off a pile and also the old way with a knife. Being able to work cleanly with no dust to me is a luxury cutting plasterboard can be such a dusty job when it really doesn't need to be. You go into a workshop there will be dust extraction all set up. Yet on a lot if sites in the UK a lot people don't seem interested in working cleanly
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 19, 2014 14:55:59 GMT -5
Here is a couple of pics   |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 19, 2014 20:52:30 GMT -5
Here is the first of the videos I have done using the MF26cchttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DsWAmeAoPk&feature=c4-overview&list=UUbHzjRrMqEWYKSgFy2A-HwA
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 19, 2014 20:54:21 GMT -5
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 20, 2014 17:02:16 GMT -5
Here is another video I have done using the V groove cutter
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 20, 2014 20:41:08 GMT -5
What depth do you set the v groove cutter to and what is the thickness of the drywall you're folding? Do you think it would make more sense for the guide to market the center of the cutter rather than the outside of the cut?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 21, 2014 5:26:29 GMT -5
The thickness of drywall is 12.5mm. To be on the safe side I set the depth at 11mm which gave a slightly tight fold, so to adjust I used the micro adjustment to advance the cut depth, so the fold wasn't as tight. If you had cutter perfectly 0 then you could maybe set at 12mm. I just went for 11 as can alway take a bit more off. After the first set up all cut depths will be the same. So no need to adjust. The long point of the board is actually the center of the cutter. So if you where going along a wall and go to fold around the an external corner you would measure where your long point will end up, which gives you your center of the fold and center of the cutter. If I get time to night I will try to do a vid showing set up the cutter
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