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Post by jalvis on Apr 12, 2013 11:30:15 GMT -5
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Post by jalvis on Apr 12, 2013 11:30:49 GMT -5
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Post by jalvis on Apr 12, 2013 11:37:04 GMT -5
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 12, 2013 17:50:11 GMT -5
Wow such a cool machine. The grooving and kerf cutting abilities are are amazing. Just need a price.
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Post by bavanor on Apr 13, 2013 7:45:00 GMT -5
I agree, that is one cool tool. Forget about getting a table saw with a dado set.
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 13, 2013 12:02:26 GMT -5
Ill have to say though.you have to be cutting a lot of dadoes and the like to get benefit from this guy
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Post by jalvis on Apr 13, 2013 17:23:30 GMT -5
I can see multiple uses for the MF 26 in a professional wood shop. Dadoes, Miter folding, and bent lamination work to name a few. Its also nice that a single blade can be used for ripping.
This is certainly a specialty tool for a specialty worker.
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 15, 2013 8:07:40 GMT -5
ON closer consideration, this isn't a device I would purchase, as I'm not doing enough of the various applications this is meant for to justify however much this would cost. most appealing to me is the grooving ability and that certainly would be handy, the kerf cutting feature is interesting as well and could change the way I put things together but still......
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Post by wrightwoodwork on May 1, 2013 11:20:44 GMT -5
The people who would gain the biggest advantage from the MF26cc are, the people who do a lot of big comercial drywall jobs. As once you have done the external corners there is no need for the tapers to stick there tapes on , then having to sand it back down. Saving on cost of materials and labour for the main contractors
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Post by GhostFist on May 1, 2013 20:52:28 GMT -5
I can see that. I know festool makes a couple of router bits for a similar type effect, but I've yet to see this method in practice
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Post by wrightwoodwork on May 2, 2013 0:55:52 GMT -5
Yeah its one those tools you really need to use on a job as a demostration then deciede it to buy. Its a bit bit like track saws before you use them, you think I won't need that. Then you use them and realise how much easier it makes your life
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Post by jalvis on May 4, 2013 10:06:13 GMT -5
The people who would gain the biggest advantage from the MF26cc are, the people who do a lot of big comercial drywall jobs. As once you have done the external corners there is no need for the tapers to stick there tapes on , then having to sand it back down. Saving on cost of materials and labour for the main contractors That method isn't used in the USA....well I have yet to see or know of miter folding being used. Lots of things will need to change for Hangers to invest in this tool and then apply the method in the USA. Dry wall is like framing in the USA.....one of the least paid trades. I think the real advantage for woodworkers would be the Multiple blade to quickly build curved work. |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on May 4, 2013 12:49:03 GMT -5
In the uk the people on large jobs will be on price work doing drywall. They will work in a pair doing the metal stud and sheeting. There aim will be to make £200 a day each. The tapers usally painters will tape and fill the joints. Then the joiners will come in and doing the finishings. A lot of these modern techniques are German which mafell is as a company. In the uk a lot of peoples attitudes towards new things is that's the way its always being why change which is fine, but you end up being left behind I've seen the MF26cc at trade shows folding technique does give perfect 90 degree corner
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Post by GhostFist on Jun 7, 2013 10:49:24 GMT -5
The question had come up on the festool forums regarding cutting drywall with a track saw. I reexamined these videos as obviously theyre doing it here with standard kss 300 blades, but I imagine this would dull the hell out of them fast! Thoughts?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jun 7, 2013 12:13:37 GMT -5
Not sure how much it would really dull the blades, obviously using new blades would not recommend. Here in the UK we will use an old hard point saw after it has being blunted and gone through the odd 1 or 2 nails they will cut plasterboard fine when cutting out doorways and narrow strips that are too small to knife. I find cutting chipboard flooring usually blunts your saw blades as it is full of sorts of rubbish here. If I was going to be cutting plasterboard with a circular saw I would use a blade that has being dulled already so it wouldn't matter about dulling the blade as it doesn't need to be a sharp blade for cutting plasterboard. Then once I was finished soak the blades in white spirit, parafinn to clean the residue off the Blades then if I was going to be cutting timber again I would get the blade resharpened so I would be rotating a couple of blades around in a circle I usually pay about £8 for a 24 tooth blade which is a bit cheaper than buying a new blade and will be every bit as good a new blades
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