brice
Junior Member
Posts: 56 
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Post by brice on Dec 5, 2017 20:07:52 GMT -5
Hello,
I just received my Erika saw today. So far I'm very impressed! The motor sounds beautiful and has tons of power. I need to dial it in still but have some questions to the experienced users out there:
Being able to make Cabinet parts (tops,bottoms and sides) is critical for what I do (a lot of custom kitchen and bathroom cabinets) so
is there ant advice on dialing the sliding table in?
Also,
I only purchased the regular protractor, should i upgrade to the mfa Protractor? IT looks quite a bit more robust and Im wondering if it would be better in conjunction with the sliding table......
Im super excited!! If I sell another job (hopefully this week) I will be buying the mt 55 and the duo doweller.
Thanks!
Brice
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 5, 2017 22:18:10 GMT -5
I do prefer the mfa but that isn't saying the other one is horrible. This won't be popular on here but I would get the rip fence and longer fence extension before getting the mfa. just my opinion
Re the sliding table what help do you need dialing it in?
biggest Erika tips I can give you....
keep the overhead dust shroud as close to the work surface as possible for best extraction.
speed settings with the right blade for the right application makes a world of difference with dust and cut quality. play with the settings.
get creative. the Erika is surprisingly adaptable. once you start tinkering with it you'll find it open up a lot of possibilities in your workflow.
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 6, 2017 9:37:01 GMT -5
Congrats on the new saw.
I own all three fences. The Universal fence lives on the sliding table, the MFA with an extension on a leg for the pull push function and the rip fence with an extension for, well, ripping. Whatever fence you use for ripping plan to get an extension and a clamping piece, part #038294. I don't think the MFA is significantly more robust than the Universal.
The sliding table is pretty easy to set up, do you have a specific question?
John
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 6, 2017 12:45:03 GMT -5
the little clamping piece is inexpensive as I recall and is a worthwhile investment. I don't deem it necessary for ripping with the rip fence with an extension. yes, if you push on the fence at the back of the saw you will get deflection but I don't see how that kind of force can be exerted during a ripping operation. others feel more comfortable with it attached, and you may be one of those, but I am not. I would however use it in conjunction with the mfa or standard protractor fence when ripping as they're not as robust as the rip fence IMO
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 6, 2017 15:22:09 GMT -5
I like the rip fence/extension/clamp combo when I'm ripping cabinet parts. Especially if I'm cutting a lot of the same size components, I find it gives me more consistent results.
YMMV
John
edit to add: I generally don't use the extension or the clamp for 'one off' rips. For example, today I needed a few extension jambs. Ripped them with just the rip fence, no extension, no clamp; no need.
J
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brice
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by brice on Dec 6, 2017 20:38:09 GMT -5
thank you to everyone who responded....
it seams that the slider is very easy to set up
I can't wait to run a cabinetry project with this. I was using the ts55 with mft3 set up before.....
I really like the rip fence and am thinking about just attaching a piece of hardwood or aluminum extrusion to it......
thanks!
Brice
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 6, 2017 22:08:26 GMT -5
ya that's what I do. I attach the extended fence extrusion which will come in handy for you with the sliding table and pull saw functions.
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brice
Junior Member
Posts: 56
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Post by brice on Dec 7, 2017 19:44:50 GMT -5
Do you think utilizing the clamping element along with the protractor would help with creating an accurate square cut with the sliding table??
seems as though you could attach it to the fence holding it more secure to the sliding table
Thoughts?
thank you
Brice
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Post by GhostFist on Dec 7, 2017 22:12:45 GMT -5
yessir I do.
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Post by oncomeme on Dec 10, 2017 21:19:04 GMT -5
The MFA fence was the main selling point of the Erika for me but if you're predominantly doing cabinet work I think its necessity probably comes down to whether or not you do mitered doors or face frames. If you do, the MFA's ability to perfectly compensate for any subtle inaccuracy in any component of the saw to get you a guaranteed 90 degree joint will pretty much let you skip putting holes in them with spring clamps or nails and join with a little 2P10 and mild finger pressure alone.
And if you ever venture out into other areas of trim carpentry it can save you from having to putty up gaps in door/window casings that aren't going to get painted.
If you mostly do faceless European style boxes or cope everything then it's probably not a must-have.
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