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Post by holmz on Nov 6, 2017 2:35:56 GMT -5
I did the test mentioned in the thread... ...but it was showing 1mm or slightly over. ... Well if it was designed to work on the FT rail then that rail is exactly 1-mm thicker... and it would work perfectly on it... |
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Post by kraftt on Nov 6, 2017 8:43:46 GMT -5
ntj1 as long as they are communicating you might ask them what those tolerances they work within are and if there is a way to adjust saw yourself.
If you ask the question - is there a way to 'shim' it yourself, or - is minor shimming is an acceptable fix, their reply even if evasive could answer a few questions.
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Post by chippy1970 on Nov 10, 2017 10:37:51 GMT -5
Just found out my saw I only bought a few weeks ago, also has this fault. Haven't measured it yet but by eye the 45 cut looks around 2mm from the rubber. Ive been told Mafell allow up to 1/2mm tolerance, not good either. My ts55r always cut dead on the rubber no matter what angle it was at.  |
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Post by kraftt on Nov 10, 2017 12:38:43 GMT -5
chippy - can you do a cut where you lightly snug up the two 'setting wheels', clamp track, plunge a 90º about 300mm, stop, then plunge a 45º for comparison and shoot that with rail still clamped in place ?
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Post by chippy1970 on Nov 10, 2017 12:42:18 GMT -5
chippy - can you do a cut where you lightly snug up the two 'setting wheels', clamp track, plunge a 90º about 300mm, stop, then plunge a 45º for comparison and shoot that with rail still clamped in place ? Ill try it but it will look like that. 90 is dead flush 45 is probably 2mm out. Theyre saying up to 1/2mm is their tolerance but im not happy with that. Shame as I love the saw but I cant have that, I want it dead on like my festool is. |
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Post by chippiegary on Nov 10, 2017 12:46:39 GMT -5
I’ve got a mt55 prob about 6 years old I’ll try that same test for you to be honest I’ve not cut 45 for a while on it if that will help
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Post by kraftt on Nov 10, 2017 13:41:59 GMT -5
just wanted to rule out slippage and snugness, only because saw is brand new to use. I did buy some aluminum shim washers, to experiment with internal shimming just haven't gotten around to it. But a saw that new has to go back. I can see shimming internally as a fix for those it bothers who are out of warrantee or have no warrantee, but 2mm is egregious and I can guess mafell possibly swapping parts at that point. From what I can see when I removed my base, besides the two tiny allen's that adjust blade 90º (not the parallel to slot setting), the base only rests against the black plastic where the four screws thread into it. The cast in base standoffs sort of dictate this anyways too. So I don't see shimming up to a 1mm ~ 1.5mm as anything precarious. Technically, with the height of the plastic registration blocks and the diameter of the slot to blade alignment screw still hitting teat, you could prob shim up to 3mm without issue. I think the higher you go the more chance of needing to recalibrate the rail slot to blade alignment becomes only because of the slight taper of the cast base standoffs falling away ever so slightly from plastic front registration blocks.  |
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Post by chippy1970 on Nov 10, 2017 15:01:14 GMT -5
just wanted to rule out slippage and snugness, only because saw is brand new to use. I did buy some aluminum shim washers, to experiment with internal shimming just haven't gotten around to it. But a saw that new has to go back. I can see shimming internally as a fix for those it bothers who are out of warrantee or have no warrantee, but 2mm is egregious and I can guess mafell possibly swapping parts at that point. From what I can see when I removed my base, besides the two tiny allen's that adjust blade 90º (not the parallel to slot setting), the base only rests against the black plastic where the four screws thread into it. The cast in base standoffs sort of dictate this anyways too. So I don't see shimming up to a 1mm ~ 1.5mm as anything precarious. Technically, with the height of the plastic registration blocks and the diameter of the slot to blade alignment screw still hitting teat, you could prob shim up to 3mm without issue. I think the higher you go the more chance of needing to recalibrate the rail slot to blade alignment becomes only because of the slight taper of the cast base standoffs falling away ever so slightly from plastic front registration blocks. View AttachmentYeah that makes sense. Can anyone confirm that their saw cuts on the line at 45. I know I wouldnt be happy with anything else, especially when both of my festool saws cut dead on the line no matter what angle. You would expect a more expensive saw to do that too. |
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Post by kraftt on Nov 10, 2017 22:08:40 GMT -5
(meaning that I was curious if we could reduce your distance down to something less disappointing) Mine cuts close enough that perhaps some folded over tin foil would not make it noticeable. The other way mafell could be addressing this is by installing a new steel plate with pin guide slots & plastic piece registration cut outs machined to move base further away. I can't see them doing much about the position of where pins are drilled. The teat on the base that the slot to blade parallel adjustment screw hits is cast proud. The edge height next to it in photo is plenty tall to catch all of screw. So it makes me wonder if it was designed that way out of being conservative for it's function or that the extra tallness was to account for good registration in the event of shimming?   48º function:  steel plate appears to be glued on ?:   |
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Post by chippiegary on Nov 11, 2017 12:48:09 GMT -5
Okay guys I have a 2009 mt 55 corded in very good condition never been dropped etc , today I clamped a 800 mafell rail on to a approx two foot wide piece of 25mm mdf I cut on the 45 approx one foot stopped put the saw back to 90 plunged and finished the cut blade depth was full on both cuts . The 45 cut was a good 1mm out from splinter strip where as the 90 was flush again it was clamped so nothing moved . Now I can’t remember last time I did 45 cut on the machine all I ever do is maybe 10 degrees or so if I’m back cutting/ leading edge I must admit it surprised me that it was off ,my idea is this has always been out because machine has never been altered or messed about with hope this helps I agree if you are gonna do 45 cuts a lot it should be right how it could be adjusted though without messing with the 90 who knows . When I’ve done say 10 degree cuts it definitely cuts on the strip so it potentially gets worse the bigger the degree hope all this makes sense .
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Post by chippy1970 on Nov 11, 2017 12:54:21 GMT -5
Okay guys I have a 2009 mt 55 corded in very good condition never been dropped etc , today I clamped a 800 mafell rail on to a approx two foot wide piece of 25mm mdf I cut on the 45 approx one foot stopped put the saw back to 90 plunged and finished the cut blade depth was full on both cuts . The 45 cut was a good 1mm out from splinter strip where as the 90 was flush again it was clamped so nothing moved . Now I can’t remember last time I did 45 cut on the machine all I ever do is maybe 10 degrees or so if I’m back cutting/ leading edge I must admit it surprised me that it was off ,my idea is this has always been out because machine has never been altered or messed about with hope this helps I agree if you are gonna do 45 cuts a lot it should be right how it could be adjusted though without messing with the 90 who knows . When I’ve done say 10 degree cuts it definitely cuts on the strip so it potentially gets worse the bigger the degree hope all this makes sense . Picked up a new saw this morning from the dealer. They wanted to send it off to Germany to be inspected and lend me a 240v version (im 110v) lol. Anyway had to argue over it before they swapped the saw. Lets hope this one is better, will let you know once ive tried it out. |
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Post by chippiegary on Nov 11, 2017 13:09:24 GMT -5
Yeah please do so with new saw I’m gonna try my new kss50 on f rails at 45 now I’m intrigued , try not to be to downhearted about it you will be really happy with saw I’m sure I upgraded from Festool best thing I ever did .
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Post by chippiegary on Nov 11, 2017 13:35:45 GMT -5
Actually henrun is testing out the mt55 cordless he would prob do a test cut for you at 45
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Post by kraftt on Nov 12, 2017 17:53:40 GMT -5
Thinking about the clip ... if the clip doesn't mate to anything what's it there for?
Does something additional clip over it to hold down steel plate while epoxy dries? And is later removed?
Was the original mold so expensive that after they realized they messed up and clip was higher than plate thickness they were just as happy with glueing?
A snap over shim plate would have solved all this and there is plenty of room, once mated to saw, that it wouldn't interfere.
The plastic guide isn't used on any other tool as far as I know to have a dual purpose.
Without gluing the steel plate would have been a great place to allow for base distance adjustment.
edit - lol I just realized that the clip is probably there so it can snap in place on a jig to print on degree markings before steel plate is assembled.  --------------------------- some most likely already noticed this but I never saw it -  |
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Post by chippy1970 on Nov 12, 2017 18:08:58 GMT -5
Tried the new saw out this morning and its still out from the edge on a 45. Only by 1mm this time though. I double checked my ts55r and to be fair that is slightly off too. As a test I clamped a rail to some mdf plunged both saws at 45 degrees then made a long cut. Then plunged at 90 degrees and made a short cut. I then looked where the two cuts meet and on the mafell there's a 1mm step the festool is about 0.5mm if that
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