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Post by calidecks on Jun 18, 2017 22:32:23 GMT -5
I've ordered a couple of these thingies. It's the adjustable rail stop on the kss. I need to make it smaller. I'd like to make it 3/4" to 7/8" as to not drop below a 1" deck board. Anyone have any ideas how to get that done? This tightening knob needs to be smaller
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Post by fuzzylogic on Jun 19, 2017 1:50:05 GMT -5
My suggestions are made very tentively! How about 'locking' two or more nuts onto the thread, then mounting in a lathe chuck and turning / sanding it to the diameter you want.
Or, even more tentively - mount into a drill chuck, and sand down with abrasive paper.
Whilst I'd do this myself - doesn't mean others should. As Ghostfist, and others, have said - be safe.
Richard (UK)
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Post by fuzzylogic on Jun 19, 2017 2:30:31 GMT -5
Having thought about it a bit more...
Looks like could hold the stop, horizontally, in a vice. Then using a suitable file, file along the length of the knob - from where the red arrow is pointing, towards the vice - in line with the thread. Turn the knob - do some more until diameter is pretty much what you want. Finish off with sandpaper.
Struggling to put in words what I mean. Hope makes sense.
Richard (UK)
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Post by calidecks on Jun 19, 2017 9:44:32 GMT -5
My suggestions are made very tentively! How about 'locking' two or more nuts onto the thread, then mounting in a lathe chuck and turning / sanding it to the diameter you want. Or, even more tentively - mount into a drill chuck, and sand down with abrasive paper. Whilst I'd do this myself - doesn't mean others should. As Ghostfist, and others, have said - be safe. Richard (UK) I'm sorry it needs to be shorter.
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Post by kraftt on Jun 19, 2017 10:06:21 GMT -5
Hey cali,
I don't own a kss so I'll have to assume some things...
Depending on depth of female recess in knob where that silver bolt attaches to could the base (aluminum? steel? plastic?) of the knob be sanded down (belt sander), as well as cutting bolt shorter to achieve length?
How long is knob now vs desired length?
Another approach is to sand down the top of knob (finger pinch area), then drill into side of lower knob and tap in or epoxy in a horizontal lever. This assumes that to tighten this knob only requires a quarter turn max so lever never interferes with registration to material edge.
Would just sanding down top of knob (finger pinch area) give you what you need and leave it a that if you can still achieve enough finger grip on the lower cylinder to tighten? You could also take a dremel and a cut off wheel and make very thin lengthwise cut into side of lower knob to give you grip but that wouldn't affect accurate angle registration to material. Others who one will prob have some better solutions but could you make a vid of how part operates?
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Post by huntsgemein on Jun 19, 2017 10:23:00 GMT -5
I'm not familiar with this item, so this is only a guess...
I assume the black knob has a female threaded recess for the silver screw/bolt protruding through the rectilinear part.
If so, could you remove the knob completely, & cut some of its "bottom" off with a junior saw, also shortening the screw or bolt just enough to allow sufficient length as required to operate properly and sufficient threaded female recess for bolt location, thus retaining what I assume are the fairly important finger grips?
I'm further assuming here that you would only require another turn or two of female thread after the device has tightened onto the track, and that any extra excess "turns" can be measured & cut off the end of the screw/bolt & the corresponding length removed from the bottom (cylindrical) part of the black knob.
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Post by toomanytoys on Jun 19, 2017 11:40:40 GMT -5
Another view Depending on the thread, there are many different styles of knobs available out there.
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Post by kraftt on Jun 19, 2017 12:23:59 GMT -5
Another view Depending on the thread, there are many different styles of knobs available out there. isn't the diameter of the knob specific to the accuracy of the angle?
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Post by kraftt on Jun 19, 2017 13:07:55 GMT -5
I see from this image that the knob has a through bolt... You could take fuzzylogic's suggestion of using drill as a lathe and using sandpaper with the following materials (it works well): Take some JB weld putty stick and mold an over sized blob onto a bolt. Then place threaded end into chuck and you can sand down hardened JB weld to correct diameter you need. JB weld is very durable too. Or if you can sand down exiting knob tip but it doesn't leave anything for a bolt head to rest against you can use a fender washer. (?) ------------------------------------------ *edit: here's an old test sample I found for an amp using epoxy putty over an objet and then sanding on a drill to size. In this case white putty was colored & pushed over an existing knob larger than finish size, let dry for 30 min. and then sanded to size. It's easy and fast.
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Post by toomanytoys on Jun 19, 2017 16:29:26 GMT -5
Another view Depending on the thread, there are many different styles of knobs available out there. isn't the diameter of the knob specific to the accuracy of the angle? It depends on what his plans on for the critter He ordered several .......
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Post by toomanytoys on Jun 19, 2017 16:29:50 GMT -5
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Post by calidecks on Jun 24, 2017 23:45:37 GMT -5
isn't the diameter of the knob specific to the accuracy of the angle? It depends on what his plans on for the critter He ordered several ....... I just want to be able to cut on a 1x without it bottoming out. Tobias will send me a couple when my kss50 gets shipped.
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mattj
Junior Member
Posts: 59
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Post by mattj on Jun 25, 2017 8:31:19 GMT -5
Hi Calidecks,
I just took a look at the knob on my KSS40. Looks like you only have to remove an eighth or so to get total height of the knob below an inch... You could just remove the knob and take the end with the finger flats to a belt sander... But that would leave little material to get ahold of when adjusting the nut. If you take material off the other side you need to maintain squareness of the mating surface or accuracy will be affected. This should be easy enough with a light touch on the belt sander, but if you have access to a metal lathe, it should be simple to spin it and take material off the face. Definitely do not change the diameter. You'll probably need to shorten the through bolt as well, shouldn't be too bad.
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Post by calidecks on Jun 25, 2017 16:58:30 GMT -5
Hi Calidecks, I just took a look at the knob on my KSS40. Looks like you only have to remove an eighth or so to get total height of the knob below an inch... You could just remove the knob and take the end with the finger flats to a belt sander... But that would leave little material to get ahold of when adjusting the nut. If you take material off the other side you need to maintain squareness of the mating surface or accuracy will be affected. This should be easy enough with a light touch on the belt sander, but if you have access to a metal lathe, it should be simple to spin it and take material off the face. Definitely do not change the diameter. You'll probably need to shorten the through bolt as well, shouldn't be too bad. Thank you. In fear of screwing up the knob on my 60 or 40 (which they appear to be the same). I've ordered two from Tobias.
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Post by calidecks on Jun 25, 2017 17:02:16 GMT -5
I was also thinking of rigging it to a peice of wood and cutting it on my kapex.
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