Works just fine but need a taller (or wider) extrusion profile/rectangle so that extrusion is a little easier to 'pinch'. Could cut a groove in the top to help or use longer lever but I'm just using what is on hand and am done with it, otherwise better off buying Bosch. Found that a fine pitch thread works best, obviously. (don't get me wrong - it's easy to use and very secure.)
Offset cut to bias one side like mafell does. No lock washer needed just flat washer on lever & rasped back side of steel nut to grab aluminum. Once set up the nut grabs aluminum clamp well and does not need re-adjustment after each use, even if you loosen lever more then needed, due to tension in clamp. Had originally threaded the ⅛" aluminum to act as the nut and it worked fine but needed/preferred the 'adjustment' of the nut to dial in lever position. Cheap 'n cheerful.
Well after compressing/bending the aluminum clamp in a wood vice, narrowing the travel required to tighten, and adding a tiny bit of lube to flat washer & thread end - along with a few more uses - it's now much, much smoother. And much easier to release too.
Don't have the Mafell/Bosch stops but with this one you press down with your thumb, biasing pressure to the left so the left side (closest to Fest channel) levels against rail, and with other thumb push lever down. Removing - you use thumb to press down on top (near top front edge) and with same hand use trigger finger to pull up on lever.
ok - I took a ¼" round file and made a shallow arch under the top (on the inside), similar to mafell's, for easier compression. Very smooth operation and feels like a finished product. Now I'm done with it.
This was just something made during commercial breaks and the finish quality is appalling.
If I had a way of producing them cheaply enough I would sell them. But the levers are going to be the spendy part here and I couldn’t find anything that wasn’t more than $7ea. + ship so I used a lever I already had.
I really wouldn’t mind buying the Bosch stops as a pair, for what they sell only one, but when you double that & add shipping it made me look around for spare parts. So my goal here was to spend way less than an o.e.m. pair & make them quickly.
I had some ¾” x 1-½” x ⅛” aluminum rectangular tubing already, it could have been a larger dimension but I like the compact size and one side needs to hit the metal of the saw base and not the removable plastic Fest insert. This is partly because you don’t want to impact too far away from being inline with rail guide rib in case it could use that lateral force to slightly bend rib over time (not that you hit it hard at all). And partly because there’s only a small portion of base to register with on the left. Using thicker than ⅛” material would help, but for myself I’m fine with the ⅛”. I had cut the clamp blanks previously and when I couldn’t find cheap levers I went with what was on hand. (cutting slot in aluminum - disposable scrap wood & hot glue jig and your square to align to 90º while glue cools. Box-in both sides and back on a flat sheet sled you clamp).
I did look for pre-made aluminum clamps and found possibilities in items like, LINK 1LINK 2LINK 3 but I would still have to widen their slot.
If I were to buy levers I would look for ’straight’ instead of angled. Though the angled one I am using doesn’t give me any issues, especially once I filed an arch into aluminum clamp, and I like the clearance it gives my thumb. So if you buy straight clamping levers make sure they are long.
I was going to use those aluminum thumb screw window locks, add a piece of aluminum angle and hold it in place with a rubber band. The thumb screw on these is drilled/tapped at a down angle creating clamping pressure at the base. The added aluminum angle is cut to keep the upper portion from moving closer (but with some space to rock), also forcing pressure into the base. The threaded end of screw is already pointed keeping it all together (under compression) if a linear force bumps against it.
Ok - here’s an option if you don’t want to cut aluminum on your nice blades.
They come two to a pack - about $3 bucks each.
Disassemble, grab hand held belt sander and sand in locations shown. Don’t be too aggressive with removal of material because you need to sneak up on the getting cam alignment correct. After first sanding of all parts, reassemble and test where cam location ends up. The ideal location is when you can ‘snugly’ close cam to the side (parallel with rail) and then quarter turn to tighten fully. Just go back and sand one part, usually the serrated teeth cam, down a tiny bit and reassemble to see what difference it made to cam alignment. A little bit of busy work but you should be done with the whole thing, start to finish, in under 5 min.
The only color is white. (I’m soaking one in solvent now to see how easy the cheap paint comes off for a bare finish).
NOTE: These are completely made out of cast Zinc.
Also notice that the serrated teeth are cast at an angle so you want to sand them to a 90º (maybe leave in some angle - 85º). Just eyeball everything and they turn out fine. Plastic washer is a hard plastic and I saw no need to change mine to steel. If moving serrated tooth part jams when pulled close (won’t back off from tight) just sand the edges that insert into the track on main body. *edit - wrong, it's actually the unthreaded through hole that's binding on the screw threads - just slightly ream out the unthreaded through hole.
About an hour soak in lacquer thinner and the paint mostly peeled off rather than dissolve into solution. I pulled part out because nothing was happening until I rubbed the surface and it peeled cleanly. Water might do the same(?).
Anyways far more palatable to the eyes compared to white. The one in photo hasn't been defanged yet.
*edit - if you try these and do want to remove paint make sure to strip them first before sanding. The paint removal does change cam alignment.
*I tried a knob to avoid dialing in cam but the size of knob only allows for 'snug' and not 'trust'. It accepts an 8/32 thread so you could just use a screw and tighten head with screwdriver too.
*edit Found old style ratcheting levers for $1.95 ea. Their M6 thread pitch is not quite as smooth as a the 10/32 (i.e. the M6 tighten faster) but if you push the lever down flush with rail to tighten at least the levers ability to disengage / reset to another position is nice.
( seriously no more )
*edit Didn't have a washer for the new lever when I compared the two, so it made me wonder. I just punched one out of formica and have to say that even though a M6 x 1.0mm thread pitch isn't as fine as 10/32 the washer has made the difference and now the smoothness of travel / compression is comparable to my original effort with spendy lever.
abdon: I stand corrected , the angle fence is only attaches with F -Tracks , what confused me was , that the Timberwolf site mentioned it will work with the NFU machine, yes it will work but only I guess when you use the Ftrack , with other tracks Like the KSS L.
Nov 28, 2020 22:52:01 GMT -5
glynnco: Did you order from GereedschapPro? I see them as in stock but I'm located in the US and am not sure if they ship here. I sent them an email asking about shipping but it was returned undeliverable...
Dec 10, 2020 7:37:40 GMT -5
jonathan: I've purchased a lot of stuff from our neighbours @ GereedschapPro.nl As far as I know they are one of the larger Mafell dealers in the EU. I can recommend them, they usually respond quickly.
Dec 11, 2020 13:58:36 GMT -5
NFU 50 Transportation?: Hi Guys, is there some Systainer for the NFU 50?
Dec 11, 2020 14:30:12 GMT -5
frezik24: Hello everyone
Dec 13, 2020 9:20:00 GMT -5
lasse: Thanks for the tip! I have own a mafell rail which is 160 cm and one that is 80 cm. Will it work just as well or will I need to buy rail that is 110 cm?
Mar 18, 2021 15:35:15 GMT -5