lomme
New Member
Posts: 27
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Post by lomme on Feb 2, 2017 23:23:12 GMT -5
Makes me wish I didn't buy those 6.2AH batteries haha, very good news though!
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Post by huntsgemein on Feb 3, 2017 1:41:54 GMT -5
There's really not that much diff. betwixt & between: a mere 13%.
In the meantime you have the benefit of all that extra juice & runtime that you'd otherwise be missing out on in the intervening months before the bigger batteries are released. Don't know how it was in your marketplace, but when initially released the 6.2s were going for about $249 Aussies +/-, now a much better $189 (30% less).
The early adopters pay through the nose for the latest tech. The laggards get to save the difference, and the "me too" manufacturers, being followers rather than leaders make extra profits by marketing cheaper outmoded technology. I'd all but guarantee that the new batteries, when released, will be much more expensive. Expect to see them in some lime green/dark blue toolmakers' range in about 2021!
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Post by huntsgemein on Apr 8, 2017 22:03:09 GMT -5
I've just found the source of the elusive Metabo pronouncement of proposed 8.0ah battery's release in 2018, & 9.0ah by 2019: I thought for a while that I'd either mistranslated or been hallucinating! www.werkzeug-news.de/akkuwerkzeuge/17/metabo-kabellosebaustelle-1481.htmlI should also apologise for originally stating that the announcement was in French: when it's clearly German! Another point that might be of interest is that the max. current output of the 3.1 (5x3.6v Sanyo/Panasonic 20700 cells) & 6.2 (two rows of 5 cells the same as the 3.1) is 1200w. This makes the current output the same for both, as I've anecdotally found with my cordless Metabo SCMS. This is substantially more per cell than any other battery type than the Bosch "Eneracer", which uses the Sanyo/Pana 20700s too. This allows outputs of 2400w total in 2 x 18V or 36v configurations for high current demand tools like Saws, 9" Grinders or maybe an eventual SDS Max hammer. Even more surprising is the output from the Metabo 5.5ah Li-HD batteries, that use a similar 2 row, 10 cell configuration - a whole 1400w. They must be using yet another unique type of cell that is different to the Sanyo 20700. In a 36v series arrangement, this would allow a total output of 2800w, which is greater even than current 220-240v mains AC power! Therefore the 5.5ah Li-HD batteries are clearly the most powerful power tool batteries currently available. Yes, I know that Milwaukee has 9.0ah batteries, but that's a measure of storage (from a crude, heavy 3 row 15 cell configuration), & Black 'n Decker/DeWalt have 54v batteries, but only currently available in a miserly 2.0ah (or 6.0ah @ 18v) capacity! No thanks! I had originally overlooked these 5.5ah batteries as just another "why bother" incremental step between the excellent 3.1 & 6.2ah batteries. It now appears that instead these batteries might actually be the best of all for high current demand tools like their cordless 18 & 36v grinders & circular sawing in hardwood.
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Post by Alakey on Jul 21, 2017 5:42:26 GMT -5
And what do you think of such a saw? I have never encountered such a thing, but now there is such a need. I need to build something like a canopy in the yard, I plan to make it from metal beams. house-lab.ru/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/%D1%87%D0%B5%D1%80%D1%82%D0%B5%D0%B6-%D0%BD%D0%B0%D0%B2%D0%B5%D1%81%D0%B0.jpg It will look something like this. So I think what kind of saw would be better to use? I was thinking about a circular saw, but I recently came across a description of reciprocating saw. However, I'm not sure that it will be able to saw a steel beam. I looked at several reviews comparing different manufacturers(https://www.bestadvisers.co.uk/reciprocating-saw), which one should I choose? Not necessarily from these five, maybe you know some other suitable for my needs. Thank you in advance!
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Post by huntsgemein on Jul 21, 2017 7:31:30 GMT -5
Hello Alakey. Welcome to the forum. I'm guessing you wish to find the most efficient way to cut structural steel components. What sort of steel materials are they? Most lightweight constructions involving an awning type construction that you've illustrated will be from one or more of the following: RHS (rectangular hollow section), SHS (square hollow section), "C" purlins or "Z" purlins and either screwed or bolted together or occasionally welded (as in the trusses in your diagram).
Both circular saws and reciprocating saws CAN cut lightweight steel sections, they are both inefficient & slow, & can be dangerous for the novice. I would not recommend either tool for general steelwork.
For all this lightweight material you will require nothing more than a plain, simple angle grinder. I recommend one that fits 125MM discs. This will provide you with adequate depth of cut to perform many, many cuts of these lightweight hollow sections before you will wear out each cutting disc. An angle grinder will be quicker, safer and much more accurate than just about any other type of "DIY" method of cutting steel.
You can buy a 220v 125mm grinder very cheaply these days, but if you spend a bit more you will have a better quality, longer lasting friend for life. A variable speed grinder is best. With this you can sand metal, wood, paints, floors & sharpen knives lawn mower and other tool blades too. Plus a lot of other tasks too, like wood carving, polishing and concrete cutting too. It will rapidly become your most used tool I suspect. I personally like Metabo grinders. These are just about the most expensive of all, but also the best quality tools of their type. Metabo's WEV10-125, WEV 15-125 & WEV 15-150 Quick are excellent quality, safe and durable tools that I can personally recommend. Cordless grinders are even more expensive and won't be as powerful as a 220-240v one. If you can get a power cord over to the worksite, it's often better to use corded tools for the big jobs like drilling, cutting & grinding in steel.
I hope this helps and that you can understand my English. You may have to cut & paste this into Google Translate to fully understand what I'm saying. Please ask any questions that you need. This forum is full of some extremely clever people who can help you with friendly advice.
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Post by Alakey on Jul 21, 2017 7:50:11 GMT -5
Thank you very much for your prompt reply, I have not decided yet on the final draft of the canopy, as only at the weekend I will make the necessary measurements of the territory. As far as I imagine it (I had not done this before) then I will use SHS and bolts for fastening, without welding. A material - 304 Stainless square steel pipe. And as for the angle grinder, I have never worked with them, in the same way as with the saws I spoke about, but I hope I can manage.
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Post by huntsgemein on Jul 21, 2017 8:25:38 GMT -5
A small angle grinder SEEMS scary because of all the sparks generated but is actually a very simple and safe tool to use. Grinding & cutting discs have no "teeth" like saws do. Provided it is operated using two hands & with the proper guards installed, it is probably one of the safest power tools to operate. The small diameter of 125-150mm grinders minimise the gyroscopic effect too. Quality tools like Metabo incorporate a safety clutch and restart protection to help prevent accidents.
Proper hearing and eye protection is very important. It must not be operated around dry grass or other flammable materials and liquids: the biggest risk from angle grinders is from starting a fire from stray sparks. In Australia, angle grinder operation is banned outdoors on days of high fire danger.
Stainless SHS will be very expensive. Galvanised pipe will be much cheaper, but will require some "Cold Gal" spray paint on all cut edges. You will also need a high speed drill with a clutch and/or an Impact driver for building steel structures with self-drilling screws or bolts.
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