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Post by henrun on Mar 2, 2017 12:32:17 GMT -5
Ah, thanks guys - I get it now. :-D
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Post by holmz on Mar 3, 2017 22:09:39 GMT -5
"Like a hot knife through butter" is their slogan. pretty sure that's UPS. I am still on the Diablo theme, so it would be Michael... Or maybe Marlin Brando.
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Post by huntsgemein on Mar 3, 2017 22:49:13 GMT -5
Reminds me of those "Little Lucifer" firelighters. Just the ticket for when those useless, lazy little goblins of Hades forget to stoke the fires.
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Post by differentshades on Dec 23, 2018 11:19:44 GMT -5
I have been using the keyblades 165 in my saw, it fits and works fine.
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Post by matchesder on Dec 26, 2018 7:27:04 GMT -5
Yikes that's a tight fit. The thermal expansion is another factor, maybe an email to Bosch asking them how much the blade can expand from regular heating in use might be in order. Otherwise letting the blade fully stop outside of the housing would probably be the safest option... On another note that's another set of blades the MT55cc can use. Mafell blades (Leitz?), Festool blades (Actually Leitz), Tenryu, Oshlun, Triton (165mm), Infinity, Trend, Makita (I suspect, its a 165mm saw) and Freud (Bosch blades are Freud). Only two of those brands (Trend, Bosch's European line of blades) are "NAINA." Otherwise I guess any of the European 165mm blades (As in construction blades) would work in a jiffy, as well as the European equivalent 6-1/4"-ish diameter blades with a 20mm bore. Choice is good. Curiously this would bring the MT55cc to 58.5mm in maximum cutting depth... 53.5mm with the track. I suspect if the green koolaid forum guys found that they had some space in their crosscutting saw it'd take some anguish away from them. Or cause more/less infighting depending on how the discussion goes. Something about a HKC55 and dimensional lumber. I'll just leave that there for anyone outside of the MUF that isn't a rabid fanboy that's willing to experiment with non green koolaid brand accessories.
Add Bayerwald to the List. May be hard do get in NA. I only know ine shop for Germany (for private customers).
The ones with "einsetzbar wie: Mafell xxxxx".
I have some for my Erika from Bayerwald. Although having the same spec. the teeth are bigger. So Bayerwald could be the manufacturer for te Mafell branded ones but also could not be since there blades are slightly different. I may post some images if requested. Is there a more suited thread?
Regards
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Post by alvychippy on Dec 8, 2019 6:00:03 GMT -5
Awesome topic and tip! I got several spare 165mm x1.6 x20 blades, only concern I have is if the kerf on them is 1.6mm they'll end up splintering more, after 162mm x1.8 kerf cuts, would have taken 0.2mm from the splinter guard...
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Post by kraftt on Dec 8, 2019 8:58:58 GMT -5
.... would have taken 0.2mm from the splinter guard... 0.1mm (think of the blade as always being centered so that half the kerf width is always cutting away from splinter guard). Of course pre-scoring and/or pre-scoring backwards is an option if you have the time or the edge has to be sharp. *There's quite a bit of slop with any track saw, until you snug up the guide cams, so that if you wanted to experiment with some aluminum tape on one side of the baseplate groove you could probably get away with a few cuts using a wider kerf without trimming a s.p. that was already cut with a thinner kerf. Would be a little easier try this if you use Fest track because the groove edge opposite the cams is wider/deeper - just clean groove with alcohol first, use a high grade aluminum tape and add some wax on top of tape, then test with scrap.
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Post by alvychippy on Dec 8, 2019 9:47:58 GMT -5
.... would have taken 0.2mm from the splinter guard... 0.1mm (think of the blade as always being centered so that half the kerf width is always cutting away from splinter guard). Of course pre-scoring and/or pre-scoring backwards is an option if you have the time or the edge has to be sharp. *There's quite a bit of slop with any track saw, until you snug up the guide cams, so that if you wanted to experiment with some aluminum tape on one side of the baseplate groove you could probably get away with a few cuts using a wider kerf without trimming a s.p. that was already cut with a thinner kerf. Would be a little easier try this if you use Fest track because the groove edge opposite the cams is wider/deeper - just clean groove with alcohol first, use a high grade aluminum tape and add some wax on top of tape, then test with scrap. Yes, correct and yes, I use FT tracks In a week or so, I shall jump of mad-rush train, will be able to sort my tools properly and to test few bits (as using 165x1.6 blade) and will try to test if it still touches splinter guard on a guide rail
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Post by kraftt on Dec 8, 2019 14:02:54 GMT -5
There are a few other (buried) threads here discussing 165 blades used in an MT55. If you haven’t read those threads it’s my ‘assumption’ that some castings are slightly roomier than others or maybe they are registered/centered (at the time of machining) in the jig a tiny bit differently(?). So that in the case of my saw I needed some door clearance when door is fully open using a 165 and I notched it inside. Also when you let the blade retract after a plunge the motor part of the saw hits a urethane bumper under the plastic depth gauge. If you let it up quickly without any resistance you ‘might’ get some minor interior scoring. Or as I prefer to think about it “custom machining”.
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