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Post by kraftt on Apr 25, 2018 18:45:48 GMT -5
the ergonomics of my hands might be different as I’m not getting the pin to depress enough to unintentionally open hatch when used left handed, that or it maybe it is more likely when wearing gloves. I goofed around anyways to test one solution and took some pvc fimo clay, embedded a paper clip in it, and molded both over the pin. Cooked it with a heat gun to harden. I think something could be made from plastic by Grex that is similar and just snaps in place (plastic continuing underneath instead of wire), maybe sell them in a 5 pack since they’ll get lost. It clips on just fine without bending paper clip after door is closed and is easy enough to remove. ----------------------- edit: gave it a sanding and dug out paperclip realizing it stays put on it's own because it surrounds pin & is contained by recessed edges. prob could do the same thing with some thick rubber cut & punched or steel epoxy putty and some mold release (maybe plastic wrap instead of mold release).
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Post by GhostFist on Apr 26, 2018 15:26:36 GMT -5
nice write up and photos! Top tip, give any exhaust ports a good blow out from time to time as accumulated dust will make firing sticky. if you notice stuff sticking it's more than likely the problem. None the less highly maintainable, which I love. Enjoy the best in Ghost approved tools!
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Post by kraftt on Apr 26, 2018 19:02:50 GMT -5
Thanks Ghost. It was a great recommendation. Of course Cali saying he likes it didn't hurt either. Many choices in the marketplace while big brands duke it out so it's nice to sidestep all that crap since Grex paid attention to detail and got it right. The Paslode counterpart has come a long way and I see they're using a cleaner gas now too but the gun is a different beast. (and it's not 'that' much less than the Grex price wise in the sense that's it's a spendy gun as well). I spoke with the shop that used to repair my guns and they have tons of experience repairing Pasload, they said get the Grex. He's only seen one in the shop for repair & it was something minor (anecdotal since there's not that many around but still they're not seeing them in for repair). Years back Grex came in and showed him the gun before it came out and after repairing Paslode's for years he said he was floored by the simplicity of the engineering in the Grex. Says he can't understand why Paslode hasn't tried to copy them yet. Speaking of maintenance, before I got it I just assumed that the lube they supplied would be for periodically tearing down the gun. Was surprised to learn the lube is only for one o-ring and nothing else. Even better no tools required. Little cover snaps off by hand & screen lifts right out:Green o-ring they want always kept lubed. Super simple & fast. Depressing trigger plunges valve to seal:I’ll stick with the supplied dielectric grease but I think they choose it because it’s food grade. These others are what I typically use on o-rings because they are also considered safe for many types of rubber compounds:
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Post by kraftt on Apr 26, 2018 23:38:41 GMT -5
There is one way to get these over to Europe...
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Post by yetihunter on Apr 26, 2018 23:48:02 GMT -5
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Post by yetihunter on Apr 27, 2018 0:15:12 GMT -5
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mattuk
Junior Member
Posts: 79
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Post by mattuk on Apr 27, 2018 16:14:29 GMT -5
Not sure I would want to use that as a pinner for long, my arms are not as strong as the used to be.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 27, 2018 23:36:29 GMT -5
If you have an original to mid 2017 ‘case’ the walls are closer together than the gun is long from tip to power/depth dial. So when you store your gun the tip/safety depresses some. Then some more as the gun shakes around in the truck. Not really a problem but I was curious if, when the tip is continually depressed back & forth like that as it moves around in box, if it also pumps out a little fuel each time (?). I asked Grex and they said that it is not enough to dispense fuel but added: "It was an oversight not to add more room and the current cases have been adjusted." "It would not hurt to modify the inside of the case." "It would be better for the safety to rest more naturally if possible."I grabbed the heat gun to form a concave area for the tip when I noticed a short crack had already developed in the case exactly where the tip touches. So instead I drilled a ¾” hole. tip is actually compressed : drill a hole, problem solved :
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Post by kraftt on Apr 28, 2018 12:50:59 GMT -5
more tool porn... Protective plastic removed: (note white wire in left image, mine was pinched between fin & plastic deforming insulation - route wire in between fins) Little rubber pads either deflect exhaust, while possibly also keeping dust out, or help attenuate noise, or all three: Seems like they could make the heat protective plastic fit tighter:
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Post by kraftt on Apr 28, 2018 20:11:48 GMT -5
When shooting into hardwoods I got decent response using the power adjust / depth dial. But noticed today that you can turn the power/depth dial all you want and it will always set a 2mm depth into soft materials. Sometimes you need to be particular about set depth because of the type / thickness of material being fastened, or maybe you want your hole filling compound to shrink less etc., so one workaround is extending the tip. For now I used some felt self-stick dots and stuck them on to shallow the drive depth. The felt is also easy to slice to desired thickness. Think I’ll buy a pack of Grex replacement tips, stick on various depth pads, and mark depth on the back of each one to store away for detail work.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 28, 2018 21:39:52 GMT -5
The last thing for me was every time I opened the case the batteries & lube were not where I stored them. The case storage inserts for spare batteries are just too sloppy to hold securely. Took one of those battery storage holders and stuck it to case with 30lb tape. Besides the case battery storage works better used for my favorite foam plugs anyways. Called Synco Corp, the makers of Superlube, on Friday and they assured me their lube doesn’t run under high temps and that the screw on top doesn’t leak so now it’s clipped in upside down away from being crushed. Done.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 29, 2018 15:02:26 GMT -5
Ok, I lied, I’m not done. The color band on the low nail count indicator is a nice touch and all, but - dark blue? I can’t figure that one out. In bright light you can make it out, otherwise it blends into the shadows and it’s not going to catch your peripheral vision. Their band is just a very hard rubber ring the mag spring rests against, anything you replace it with needs to be the same o.d. Found a pack of colored pens in the drawer and the size matches up close enough. I’ll find some florescent tubing later but this improves it enough, especially if you cut it wider than the o.e.m.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 30, 2018 10:13:41 GMT -5
Looked at the exploded diagram and those rubber flappers are listed as reed valves. I'm sure it's obvious but this is where dust build up would keep the rubber from sealing (if that is part of it's function) and this is where I assume you would want to aim some compressed air from the outside (or vacuum) periodically.
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Post by yetihunter on Apr 30, 2018 12:58:29 GMT -5
This thread has become epic.
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Post by GhostFist on May 1, 2018 9:43:56 GMT -5
Kraft, I knight these, Lord of the Grex! Arise!
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