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Post by Red on Jan 14, 2016 4:29:17 GMT -5
So our security manager, Mrs. Red Oak, informed me about the latest trespasser she videotaped over the weekend...and, shortly thereafter, informed me that improving our security measures was now at the top of this winter's Honey-Do List.
So I made some phone calls and, apparently, it's a pretty good time of year to get a deal on 40' High Cube (HC) locking overseas cargo containers (cans). Next, I contacted our trucking guy and asked him to deliver four loads of dense grade road base, which, as it turns out, is some pretty high quality "packable" gravel.
We've had a huge roll of woven geotextile road fabric laying in a trailer for years, so I was thinking about rolling it out, splicing it together (as specified by the manufacturer) and, in the end, packing an 8" layer of the dense grade road base on top of the road fabric. After that, I'd like to place two of the 40' HC cans (C1 & C2) parallel to one another and exactly 24' apart.
Considering that fully-loaded steel cans are routinely stacked 6-high on the deck of a cargo ship, they should make for a pretty sturdy load path for even a large roof system, but we're presently short on timbers that can support a 24' open span, which brings me to this thread...
Please take a look at the drawing and the photo I've attached to this post and, if you care to, post some productive thoughts on alternatives to timbers for the roof system. By the way, the gable ends of this project will remain open (for now), so steel roof panels over roof sheathing are what I have in mind for the roof itself.
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Post by rizzoa13 on Jan 14, 2016 12:37:27 GMT -5
Is that photo what you've currently got done? What your basing te idea off of?
Steel studding like that in a thick enough gauge will surely carry any snow load as long as the roof is pitched enough. What exactly do you want an opinion on? Aesthetics or feasibility of it carrying the load.
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Post by Red on Jan 14, 2016 13:04:05 GMT -5
I'm confident about the load path, Mister R, so it's the roof system itself -- especially the 24' open span -- that I'm concerned about. Normally, we would calculate a beam size, mill out the beam(s) and do the traditional TF work. If we want it done during this mild winter, however, we won't be able to go the TF route (not enough long timbers, at present).
This being the case, I'm looking for productive thoughts on alternatives to heavy timbers. I-beams and tapered S-beams have come to mind for the open span, but I'm a timber framer; hence, my reticence.
If anyone has covered an open span like this one -- especially in snow country (35lb ground snow load) -- I'd really like some ideas...even if they seem "out there." One of the great things about an open forum like the MUF are the obscure ideas that are sometimes revealed in the posts. Have a good one, Red and Mrs. Red
P.S. I had the idea and then thought that it must've been done by someone else...so I searched and found the photograph of a similar "over the cans" type roof system...and I use the word "similar" because the pitch on that roof -- and the orientation of the steel roofing -- will not do for our location (too much snow here).
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Post by charley1968 on Jan 14, 2016 13:10:31 GMT -5
What kind of snowloads do you expect? Even if it's 3 meters, according to the Swedish Meteorological blahblah institute, that would amount to 30cm of waterload/sqm= 300kg/sqm. I build a rabbit hutch with 2'x2', less angle , sedum plants (accounting for 150kg/sqm) , and after 3 years it's still standing.. You ought to be allright..
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Post by charley1968 on Jan 14, 2016 13:14:11 GMT -5
But the roofing doesn't look right: 90 deg. turn, so the water will flow?
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Post by Red on Jan 14, 2016 13:17:07 GMT -5
But the roofing doesn't look right: 90 deg. turn, so the water will flow? Read the post script (P.S.) in my last post, Charley. You and I agree, the orientation of the steel roof panels are 90-degrees out.
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Post by Red on Jan 14, 2016 13:20:21 GMT -5
What kind of snowloads do you expect? Even if it's 3 meters, according to the Swedish Meteorological blahblah institute, that would amount to 30cm of waterload/sqm= 300kg/sqm. I build a rabbit hutch with 2'x2', less angle , sedum plants (accounting for 150kg/sqm) , and after 3 years it's still standing.. You ought to be allright.. 35-pounds-per-square-foot ground snow load. This is the exact minimum load design specified by the building authority, Sieg Heil !!, in our local area...
By the way, what type of 2' x 2' material did you use in your project? Sorry, but I'm not following you here...
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Post by charley1968 on Jan 14, 2016 14:25:12 GMT -5
35pound/sqf: it's roughly 9 sq/f to a sq/m= 350pound/sq/m 175kg/sq/m. I was using 2inchx 2inch as posts, 28mm planks perpendicular( for roofing) . That's for a rabbit hutch but it stands up to the weather.
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Post by charley1968 on Jan 14, 2016 14:25:44 GMT -5
Do i make any sense?
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Post by charley1968 on Jan 14, 2016 14:28:12 GMT -5
And still: your roofing looks odd: it's not draining that way, is it?
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Post by charley1968 on Jan 14, 2016 14:33:30 GMT -5
Sorry,sometimes i neither think nor read before i answer..
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Post by Red on Jan 14, 2016 14:38:53 GMT -5
And still: your roofing looks odd: it's not draining that way, is it? The photo was copied from the internet after I had the original idea, Charley. It is not our project in the photo.
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Post by holmz on Jan 14, 2016 14:42:52 GMT -5
An I-beam is strong. Maybe you can do a glumlam type of thing with 2x6 or 4x6 and plywood for the center of the I ? you will need a router or dado blade nd some glue or epoxy. Not sure about gluing when cold..
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Post by Red on Jan 14, 2016 14:55:57 GMT -5
An I-beam is strong. Maybe you can do a glumlam type of thing with 2x6 or 4x6 and plywood for the center of the I ? you will need a router or dado blade nd some glue or epoxy. Not sure about gluing when cold.. This is a good idea, but I'm also hesitant when it comes to adhesives. Many of the adhesives manufactured these days specify 50-degrees F or higher...Anyway, this is the kind of idea I'm looking for.
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Post by toomanytoys on Jan 14, 2016 15:16:21 GMT -5
If your going to glue some wood products up I would use resorcinol in this situation due to its moisture resistance, temperature range and most importantly in a structural component, it doesn't creep under load like everything else so the load is carried by all the glued up members equaly.
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