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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 13, 2015 16:32:48 GMT -5
Both my kss rails I do find adding a lubricant spray does greatly help. For the 90 degree off the rail when setting the adjustable stop I usually make sure with my other hand I push it hard into the indent to stop it creeping back and forth as I'm tightening it
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Post by mick on Nov 14, 2015 5:17:01 GMT -5
Hi Arran what spray are you using I normally don't like using lubricant because of dust sticking ?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Nov 14, 2015 8:12:12 GMT -5
Usually use a silicone spray or a dry lubricant
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Post by skinee on Nov 14, 2015 17:20:59 GMT -5
Sorry to throw a few drops of rain on the parade, however; having used the KSS 80 for a few months, I've found that it doesn't always cut to the angle set. Sometimes the locking guide slips and sometimes it just drifts a bit of a degree off, but you can't guarantee it will cut absolutely to the set angle. Additionally, due to the thinness of the blade, it will deflect, particularly if moved quickly, not following a set bevel. It can prove difficult to slide along the KSS or FSN track at times. Regardless of what the adverts say, it does not cut the same line when canted over to a bevel, you always need to adjust. The Mafell blades are not only expensive, but are very fragile and will chip easily. I still think the KSS80 is a brilliant tool but it does have a good few weaknesses. The main one is that if you cant it over past whoever knows how many degrees it will cut through it's own angle stop (on the bottom of the KSS guide) which is a serious design flaw. can this be correct??  have any other kss80 users found that the stop can be cut into during a steep bevel cut? |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2015 20:00:32 GMT -5
Yes skinee ,the kss80 will cut through the blade side stop at 53 degrees on the bevel .This falls into the category of user responsibility of knowing the tool . Dont really see this as a fault with the saw , just a limitation to be aware of . The newest slide compound miter saws , all of them will cut through the fences if not readjusted for clearance ......lol .
Hey Ross , my bet is the riving knife is bent or out of adjustment with the blade . Took my riving knife off after the first few cuts .
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Post by GhostFist on Nov 14, 2015 22:02:51 GMT -5
Mafell specifically advertise that thistle will not happen as the saw is designed to avoid it. I can understand why someone would be miffed if that were not the case
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Post by checkmax on Dec 21, 2015 13:16:45 GMT -5
Not sure if this is the best place for this question.
I just took delivery of a kss80 and started working on 4x4s for a swingset. The saw cuts short by a 1/4" with the kss rail attached. I figured no problem I'd just roatte, align and cut. Problem is I can't get the alignment correct. When the cut strip is aligned with the cut edge I have a little excess left ovwr. I didn't have this problem with MT55. Anybody else experience this? I was hoping it'd be spot on.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Dec 21, 2015 13:53:04 GMT -5
Only think I can think of is blade not square to Base, maybe needs the grub screws adjusted
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Dec 22, 2015 2:12:15 GMT -5
Could be moving the rail a little when making the cut. It takes practice.
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Post by Red on Dec 22, 2015 18:50:04 GMT -5
Not sure if this is the best place for this question. I just took delivery of a kss80 and started working on 4x4s for a swingset. The saw cuts short by a 1/4" with the kss rail attached. I figured no problem I'd just roatte, align and cut. Problem is I can't get the alignment correct. When the cut strip is aligned with the cut edge I have a little excess left ovwr. I didn't have this problem with MT55. Anybody else experience this? I was hoping it'd be spot on. |
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Post by checkmax on Dec 22, 2015 20:17:51 GMT -5
Good point.
I will check both - method and trueness of blade and post. I haven't used mt55 on this. Didn't think it was appropriate, though my experience with it on a rail has been knife accurate.
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Post by Red on Dec 22, 2015 22:40:37 GMT -5
i'm assuming that you don't have a TF framing template, Max, so pick out a trusted square -- preferably one that you've tested for square -- and test out your material.
TF joint cutters call it the "arris," but pick a point on one face of your material and make a reference mark. Next, use the square to mark a line across the top face that corresponds with you reference mark. Roll your timber 90-degrees and make a mark that connects with your first line...repeat until you get all the way around your timber. If your lines connect, your timber is square...but don't be surprised if the lines don't meet. 
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Post by oncomeme on Sept 15, 2016 1:07:48 GMT -5
I have not found my zero setting off or my angle lock slippery in any way--it holds firm without adjustment and was as square as a Starret out of the box. Maybe Timberwolf does some extra adjusting beyond what they get from the factory; I dunno.
Deflection definitely does happen when going through 3" thick material of a relatively high Janka rating (my first test project was in sapelle), but it is well within the sub-millimeter range and easily dealt with when jointing for glue up. Slowing the feed rate, particularly when first introducing the blade, helps a ton. I wouldn't say it's any worse than what I tend to get out of a Festool TS 75 or Kapex.
What I do find happening more often than anything else is the weight of the saw deforming the F rail just a smidge at the beginning of any cut. It's so big that you have to start it well off the edge of the workpiece, and it's so heavy that you can see and feel it push down just enough to bow the rail a hair, even when clamped, and give you a very slightly less than perfectly square cut. This is much less of an issue with the super rigid KSS rail, but it can definitely throw you off to make you mad if you're trying to make a long hexagonal box or something fancy.
Whether or not it cuts into the angle stop is not something I feel I can fault anyone for. You should always quadruple check the blade path before you even think about squeezing the trigger on anything with this much horsepower, and the angle stop extension is so short, I'd expect anyone using it to start the cut well ahead of the point where the blade might make contact.
All-in-all, it's an absolutely amazing saw as long as you aren't expecting consistently glue-ready joints out of it when using the full cut capacity. While it may be made for construction work, if you build furniture out of 8/4 and thicker material on a regular basis and don't have room for a huge cabinet saw, it's well worth considering. It just yawns through cuts that would smoke and pop breakers with my TS 75 and the dust collection is at least 85% as good, even with the exposed blade.
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Post by GhostFist on Sept 15, 2016 6:26:43 GMT -5
NOw that is a great and honest write up! Welcome aboard! This can be a slow paced forum at times but there is quality here despite my poor grammar and constant spelling blunders.
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Post by oncomeme on Sept 17, 2016 19:51:41 GMT -5
Just to provide a visual example of what you can expect from the 24-tooth blade in solid hardwood (sapele in this case):  There's clearly some cleanup to be done with the sander, but it's as square as can be with zero scorching. The wee bit of deflection digging at the beginning is far better than what I would have gotten out of the TS 75 considering the fact that I'd have had to flip the board and finish the cut from the other side. I am a happy camper. And all oiled up; EVERY single cut in this board was done with the KSS 80:  |
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have any other kss80 users found that the stop can be cut into during a steep bevel cut?
