|
|
Post by Red on Nov 3, 2015 14:06:43 GMT -5
Over the weekend, I made my first runs using the KSS80Ec/370 -- off of its angle guide -- and on to the long Mafell guide rails we invested in...and, let me tell you something, that friggen thing cuts like the proverbial hot knife through margarine!
Specifically, I was cutting through 1-inch of cellular PVC and, man, you could hardly hear the blade. I don't know if we lucked out with a "cherry" off of the line, but the Silber Edition we're using on the job site -- and on the rail -- exhibits balance that rivals our big table saw.
What a marvel and a pleasure to use.
|
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Nov 3, 2015 19:08:11 GMT -5
"That's a 10-4 good buddy"............
Have cut for two days straight with the KSS 80 and very happy with the money spent for the saw .The inboard left thumb flip lever for the blade guard retraction is brilliant for use off the track or rail .Must resist the ZSX......Must resist the ZSX....................
|
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Nov 3, 2015 21:58:43 GMT -5
I have to say that I've been making some hefty slices through disgusting material with both my mt55 and p1cc. Monster's even those two
|
|
|
|
Post by Red on Nov 3, 2015 23:19:26 GMT -5
"That's a 10-4 good buddy"............ Have cut for two days straight with the KSS 80 and very happy with the money spent for the saw .The inboard left thumb flip lever for the blade guard retraction is brilliant for use off the track or rail .Must resist the ZSX......Must resist the ZSX....................
By the way, resistance is futile...  |
|
ross
Junior Member
Posts: 52 
|
Post by ross on Nov 7, 2015 19:07:11 GMT -5
Sorry to throw a few drops of rain on the parade, however; having used the KSS 80 for a few months, I've found that it doesn't always cut to the angle set. Sometimes the locking guide slips and sometimes it just drifts a bit of a degree off, but you can't guarantee it will cut absolutely to the set angle. Additionally, due to the thinness of the blade, it will deflect, particularly if moved quickly, not following a set bevel. It can prove difficult to slide along the KSS or FSN track at times. Regardless of what the adverts say, it does not cut the same line when canted over to a bevel, you always need to adjust. The Mafell blades are not only expensive, but are very fragile and will chip easily.
I still think the KSS80 is a brilliant tool but it does have a good few weaknesses. The main one is that if you cant it over past whoever knows how many degrees it will cut through it's own angle stop (on the bottom of the KSS guide) which is a serious design flaw.
|
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Nov 7, 2015 23:26:00 GMT -5
Whoa
|
|
|
|
Post by MrToolJunkie on Nov 8, 2015 1:49:06 GMT -5
Sorry to throw a few drops of rain on the parade, however; having used the KSS 80 for a few months, I've found that it doesn't always cut to the angle set. Sometimes the locking guide slips and sometimes it just drifts a bit of a degree off, but you can't guarantee it will cut absolutely to the set angle. Additionally, due to the thinness of the blade, it will deflect, particularly if moved quickly, not following a set bevel. It can prove difficult to slide along the KSS or FSN track at times. Regardless of what the adverts say, it does not cut the same line when canted over to a bevel, you always need to adjust. The Mafell blades are not only expensive, but are very fragile and will chip easily. I still think the KSS80 is a brilliant tool but it does have a good few weaknesses. The main one is that if you cant it over past whoever knows how many degrees it will cut through it's own angle stop (on the bottom of the KSS guide) which is a serious design flaw. Very interesting. I have not experienced that. Will have to see what angle that is. I think this saw is awesome in all uses I have needed. |
|
mattuk
Junior Member
Posts: 79
|
Post by mattuk on Nov 8, 2015 23:37:33 GMT -5
I have not had the saw at enough of and to cut the strip yet.
It has ripped 14' long cuts in 60mm and 80mm oak with ease. I heard no difference from the motor whilst making the cut at a decent speed. ( That surprised me a bit )
I believe one of the gents on the forum had placed some body weight against the back of the 370 rail, with a hand further up the rail with downward pressure to keep the guide in position whilst cutting. I have tried the same method and it has worked well for me.
|
|
ross
Junior Member
Posts: 52
|
Post by ross on Nov 11, 2015 15:17:43 GMT -5
As I said, overall it's a brilliant machine and I'm not immune to recognising some issues as "operator error". I've cut full depth, both ripping and crosscutting through oak and yes you do hear a slight change in pitch but it just keeps going. My concerns are mere niggles that the machine isn't perfect, there's nothing majorly wrong apart from the fact that it isn't massively accurate. If I try to cut a 90 degree angle (the one that's easiest to check), it will often not be exact. This may be due to the face of the wood not being perfect (I'm talking structural 6x2 here) but often it'll be 1/4 degree off or so, which may not sound much but can make a bit of a difference depending on the requirement. The edge of the track and the stops seem to be spot on, but somehow something goes off a bit. Maybe getting a leg up at the back and holding may improve things but I've not quite hit it yet.
As I said, the fact that the angle stop nearest the blade gets cut through when past 45degrees or so is a bit more worrying, and the fact that the more you cant the bevel over the further off the line it goes is annoying when going for tight tolerances particularly when the adverts say it doesn't!
|
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Nov 11, 2015 17:10:39 GMT -5
Those are certainly valid observations. I don't own the saw but are there any adjustments on the base? Can the bevel lock be tightened? Deflection in the plate can occur from heat and pushing a saw too hard through the material, I would assume that the 80 should be able to eat 2x like nothing even on a bevel, but then again I'm just assuming. I managed to cut this wedge out of some disgusting sopping wet 6x6 pressure treated with my mt55 and p1cc. mt55 at full depth to the set angle from both sides and the p1cc to follow up clearing out what the Mt could reach.
|
|
|
|
Post by toomanytoys on Nov 11, 2015 17:51:29 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Nov 11, 2015 18:07:24 GMT -5
The vid is private? I fix
|
|
|
|
Post by GhostFist on Nov 11, 2015 18:09:57 GMT -5
Try now
|
|
|
|
Post by toomanytoys on Nov 11, 2015 18:15:16 GMT -5
|
|
ross
Junior Member
Posts: 52
|
Post by ross on Nov 13, 2015 15:21:50 GMT -5
One of the issues with the KSS80 is that the blade is fairly thin 2.5mm teeth and about 2mm plate. This will deflect, particularly when pushed through material at speed. So the slower you push it the better. Additionally, particularly when the saw is bevelled over and after a bit of use it really can become hard to push along the KSS track so some sort of lubricant may be necessary, I find moving your grip and pushing at various points on the plate help.
As delivered, my saw was not set to a 90degree cut (bevel/canted over) and I needed to adjust the two grub screws in the base plate to zero it. Admittedly, I'm an anally retentive engineer so anything outside perfect gets a bit annoying.
For the life of me I can't understand why I can hardly ever get a 90degree cut off of the KSS rail, it's always a bit of a degree off.
The FACT THAT THE ANGLE STOP GETS CUT WHEN BEVELLED OVER IS ALMOST UNFORGIVABLE!!!!!!
Apart from that it's miles better than any other comparable saw and effectively replaces a table saw and a compound mitre saw so it is really a genius machine. JUST MAKE IT PERFECT AND NOT NEAR PERFECT!!!
|
|
