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Post by hansie on Sept 22, 2015 0:53:00 GMT -5
Hi, I’m the happy owner of an Erika.
I have a challenge in making tenons. It looks easy, just set the correct height of the blade, pull a lot of times, moving the wood a few milimeters each time.
The problem is that with each pull there is a risk that the height changes, since the pull knob is also the height knob.
So I have 2 questions:
1. Do you recognize this and what are your solutions?
2. A solution could be to make a sliding jig. Since there are no t-slots, we need to use the dovetails (zwaluwstaart) on the side. Any experiences with connecting jigs to the dovetails?
Thanks,
Hans
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Post by holmz on Sept 22, 2015 0:59:34 GMT -5
Hi Hans,
No idea on your question ...
But what dove tails?
I was wondering if there were dove tails or T-slots in the table that would allow for featherboards etc.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 22, 2015 1:12:46 GMT -5
Hans is meaning at the side the profile. For making sure the blade doesn't change height I personally make sure I don't turn it while pulling the handle. Another option if available is the sliding table.
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Post by jonathan on Sept 22, 2015 1:51:23 GMT -5
Hi hansie,
Welcome to the forum.
I have the same issue. When I use the pull function I also seem to adjust the height slightly with some pulls. I always make sure I position the workpiece as close to the blade as possible.
The further I have to pull the blade, the more likely it is that I have a small change in the height.
Only solution seems to be to be more careful (yeah I know...), get the sliding table, or concoct a crosscut sled that simply fits over the width of the table top. An inverted U-shape. Should be easy enough and seems the best solution.
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Post by holmz on Sept 22, 2015 2:39:02 GMT -5
I cannot tell by the pictures... Are there slots where a cross cut tables goes and/or any provisions for featherboard clamping?
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Post by jonathan on Sept 22, 2015 3:00:57 GMT -5
There are no mitre slots. There's only a dovetail profile around the entire tabletop. But since the table is a simple rectangle, you could just cut a board to the exact width of the table top and screw a small runner on the underside of each side, creating an inverted U shape. That could then act as a rudimentary crosscut sled. 
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Post by hansie on Sept 22, 2015 5:53:41 GMT -5
A ha, so Jonathan, you suggest to have the runner slide only on top of the dovetail. Smart... I was thinking to make a runner that goes over the complete dovetail, so cover the whole thing. Just like the original mafell jigs. But then I need a router bit with the exact angle.
And if I would make a sliding table, would you make the runners a bit higher then the table, so the sliding table does not touch the mafell table? I'm a bit afraid, that the mafell table will be affected by the moves, since it is aluminium.
And wrightwoodwork: it is very difficult with one arm to pull and at the same time not turn the knob. Specially when the cut is long. Maybe with 2 persons it could work...
Any photo's of DIY mafell jigs?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 22, 2015 6:24:50 GMT -5
it is very difficult with one arm to pull and at the same time not turn the knob. Specially when the cut is long. Maybe with 2 persons it could work... There is certain position I find I do tend to turn the wheel slight. It would be nice if you could disengage the height and also when you press the button the saw turns on. At the pull handle Read more: mafell-users-forum.freeforums.net/thread/558/tenons-problem-height?page=1#ixzz3mSv2Iabx |
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Post by jonathan on Sept 22, 2015 7:09:37 GMT -5
hansie,
I wouldn't even bother with trying to match the dovetail profile. I'd just go over them and use the flat side of the profile to guide the crosscut sled. Very quick and easy. Of course, matching the dovetail profile would look nicer 
Also yeah you could get some scratches in the top. Again, there's a very easy fix for that. You could tape some of the teal green strips that are on Makita guide rails to the bottom of your sled. They're on the rails just for that reason, to help slide the saw across it and avoid scratches. www.toolnation.nl/makita-glijstrip-t-b-v-geleiderail-1400-mm.html €6 at Toolnation.nl 
Just a thought.
(PS: Groeten uit het "zonnige" zuiden ) |
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Sept 22, 2015 7:49:20 GMT -5
Thanks for bringing this up for discussion. I had no idea that pulling the saw could change the blade height. I've ordered an Erika 70- one of the first things I had planned to do was some percision notching. I suspect you guys saved me some grief.
John
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Post by holmz on Sept 22, 2015 7:55:52 GMT -5
hansie,
I wouldn't even bother with trying to match the dovetail profile. I'd just go over them and use the flat side of the profile to guide the crosscut sled. Very quick and easy. Of course, matching the dovetail profile would look nicer
Also yeah you could get some scratches in the top. Again, there's a very easy fix for that. You could tape some of the green glide strips that are on Festool guide rails to the bottom of your sled. They're on the Festool rails just for that reason, to help slide the saw across it. Doesn't cost too much.
Just a thought.
(PS: Groeten uit het "zonnige" zuiden ) Now I am thinking a drill and a tap! |
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Post by jonathan on Sept 22, 2015 8:33:30 GMT -5
Edit: updated my last post for a cheaper alternative for glide strips.
Another solution would be to buy a Mafell extension rail profile (that's used for the extension table). Cut that in 2, slide them over the dovetails on the side of the saw and screw a piece of plywood on top of it.
A word of warning though, I'm not sure this well this would slide up and down. I have to report I've had trouble sliding my extension wing on the dovetail extrusions. Maybe if the pieces are shorter it would go easy. Not sure...
I actually still think a piece of plywood that covers the full width of the table with a small runner screwed on the underside that runs against flat side of the dovetail profiles left and right, is the simplest and best working solution. Tape a few strips of that teal green Makita glide strip on the bottom and maybe even the side of the runners and Bob's your uncle!
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Sept 22, 2015 11:11:51 GMT -5
I honestly don't have a problem keeping the blade at the same height. I don't know other people pull I usually once the height is set place my hand at 12 o'clock on the wheel and pressing the button and pull keeping my hand at 12 o'clock. I can't say I've felt myself want to turn the handle to say 3 o'clock. Just because I never gave an issue others don't. Another option of doing tenons and it really depends on the length of them say 70/85 is to cut the shoulder then lift the blade fully or the length of the tenon. Then with a jig made to allow a piece of material stood on its end on top of the table to clamp to it and is also clamped to the table. Saves pulling the saw through as many times sometimes it works depending on the length of the tenons and also the length of the material
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Post by toomanytoys on Sept 22, 2015 13:24:11 GMT -5
For low friction tape in the USA I purchase either Teflon or Polyetylene adhesive tape from McMaster.
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