dob
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by dob on Feb 21, 2015 18:50:42 GMT -5
is the motor brushless?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 21, 2015 20:53:54 GMT -5
No it has brushes
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dob
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by dob on Feb 22, 2015 17:50:13 GMT -5
for $2000us on circular saw no brushless motor!!!! Totaly down. I was Sure it is, but just to double check. What a shock
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dob
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by dob on Feb 22, 2015 21:40:53 GMT -5
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Post by GhostFist on Feb 23, 2015 11:05:34 GMT -5
This saw has been on the market for a while and I'm not sure that any mafell tool apart from the rebranded metabo drills is brushless.
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dob
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by dob on Feb 24, 2015 21:06:21 GMT -5
ghost, i think you have the saw. do you use it daily and did you ever had a brush problem or replacement. how longyou have it
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Post by GhostFist on Feb 24, 2015 22:48:04 GMT -5
I do not have the cordless version of this saw. I own a corded kss300 and use it pretty much daily. No problems with brushes yet and i've had it for about 3 years. Aaron owns the saw in question and can attest to brush wear. It's possible with the rebranded metabo drills, they could be upgrading their cordless line up, but that's just speculation. It would require a redesign of mafell's cuprex motors so who knows.
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dob
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by dob on Feb 25, 2015 11:04:08 GMT -5
someone (wrightwoodwork)pulls why brushless motor?
From toolguyd.com/power-tool-brushless-motors/ as “wrightwoodwork” suggested:
Advantages of brushless motors: - improved heat dissipation, - flatter torque, - reduced electrical noise, - greater power output. - less maintenance - longer life (until final collapse) - longer runtime (between two adjacent failures) - less noise - run well continuously - sand/sawdust will not dramatically decrease the life of the tool like a brushed motor would. - the biggest things that leads to shortened life for brushed motors is physical deformation, typically from some particulate damage rather than electrical (like switch burn) and the fact that brushes are often brittle materials that chip when they deform, instead of bend or flex in a more predictable manner. - Tool used in abrasive dust eats up not only brushes, but the contacts on the motor commutator. Once this area gets ‘burnt’, even new brushes don’t make the tool work properly again. Brushless tools don’t have this problem
Downside to brushless motor – they’re pricey
And paying $2000 US plus tax +++ for a circular saw, what motor one should expect. But other quality of the saw make me to still keep my eye on it. Look at Festool cordless saw…. But buying all Festool things that comes with kss400 as standard (like batt. Charger, 2 battery, special rail, two blade,…) makes Festool saw more expensive that it looks initially, but still much less that kss400/36V. That is why I am here with questions
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Post by GhostFist on Feb 25, 2015 11:45:13 GMT -5
No problem ask away. I'm not sure if the regular TS55 is brushless or not, but regardless. I certainly like brushless drills, and festool started this as far as I know but pretty much every saw I've ever owned is brushed and overuse not had huge failures because of this. I know some carpenters who remove electronic controllers on saws as analog is cheaper and easier to maintain. Again the trend towards brushless motors in larger tools is relatively new and the cordless kss 400 has been on the market for a few years. Mafell, being a smaller specialty company, isn't one to upgrade their lineup yearly as say Dewalt might.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Feb 25, 2015 14:31:40 GMT -5
I have both versions of the kss 400 saws. The corded and cordless version. Since getting the cordless version I have used it almost every day all day. It's really a tool designed for site use in the open field where thier is a lack of power. For general work flow most days I find the battery almost last all day. The only downside is the price and I have told mafell themselves. Saying that I use for basically everything from 1st fix, 2nd fix, roofs, flooring, half lap joints etc. For myself the tool has being extremely useful and worth the cost despite the silly price. I put value on how much use I can get out of it. I haven't personally used the festool cordless tsc, but have looked at it. From first impressions it seems a well made tool. I did think it didn't feel as well balanced properly because the batteries are on the outside of your hand where on the kss the battery is inline with your hand so to me makes it feel better balanced. If you do more kichen fitting etc I would properly recommend the tsc with built in dust bag that does seem to work reasonably well. Then if you do more 1st fix joinery, 2nd fix joinery ,roof. Then the kss system is a better choice I feel
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Post by highlander on Mar 7, 2015 18:03:47 GMT -5
Just ordered my kss400 36v. Considered the festool tsc as i have 10× 18v batteries but it is nowhere near as versatile a saw as the kss and i dont like festool rails. Sold my corded kss400 and ksp24v to fund it so now I will have mt55cc, kss300 and kss400 36v. Just started a big renovation job and although I have easy access to power i think a cordless kss saw is going to come in extremely handy. I think cordlessness lends itself well to the kss400. For less money i could have bought a kapex or kss80 so it was a tough decision. I shall report back when i have put it through its paces.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Mar 7, 2015 18:11:09 GMT -5
Excellent stuff. Once you get I'd recommend getting the blade for cordless. I think it's 16 tooth can't remember the part number
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Post by highlander on Mar 11, 2015 18:51:45 GMT -5
Do you notice a big difference using the thinner blade? Also do you find the thinner blade dulls quicker and can it be resharpened as much as the standard ones? Saw will hopefully arrive tomorrow and get put straight to good use framing up some gables in-situ. Cant wait, made up gable ladders this evening and by the time i had sorted out power/stools/chopsaw i could have had it all cut with the 400 with minimal effort, i am renovating and extending an old house my brother just bought at evenings and weekends and i can see this saw saving alot of time and effort. In my day job i do alot of jobbing joiner work so a cordless saw is handy, i live in the scottish highlands so alot of jobs are remote/outdoors and awkward to get power. Also do work out on fishfarm barges, wheelhouses etc, Cant wait!
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Mar 11, 2015 19:37:32 GMT -5
I do notice a bit of difference in the length of time the battery lasts with the. Standard blade. To the thinner blade. It obviously depends on what I'm doing and as to how long the battery will last. If ripping timber 50mm then the battery will get flattened pretty quickly. I haven't worked out how many meters each blade can rip. Most of my cuts are cross cuts and on average day using the standard blade I can almost get a day out of the one battery. Obviously I'm doing other tasks as well. Then when using the thinner blade I find the battery last around a day and half. Subject to how it's being used. I have currently got the thinner blade on getting sharpened for the first time ,plus I have ordered another one as well. I still have the original blade I got for the kss400 maybe almost 3 years ago and it's being sharpened a few times. Not that I know how many. I tend to use the thinner blade where I'm having to rip and where the cut edge ist so critical like framing etc. Then use the 32 for more finish work. I always have a spare blade in my tool belt changing the blade is as simple as taking the battery out the saw locks automatically.
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dob
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by dob on Mar 12, 2015 11:06:17 GMT -5
The power, and so the battery run-time, is directly proportional to the blade tooth width (or commonly called as blade thickness). Twice "thicker blade" should be twice shorter battery run-time. BUT there are some friction losses at side of the blade which is independent of the blade thickness. You can see on the blade some removal of the paints, and it is it. It also cost you battery-run-time.. So twice "thicker blade" is around 1.7 times shorter battery run-time.
Larger number of teeth and you get also a little longer battery run-time due to smaller "chip" section per each tooth. Smaller number of teeth has larger "chip" cross-section but less chips. BUT smaller number of teeth has more tear-off due to large cut section.
Always use as thin as possible blade, and as larger as possible number of teeth, to maximize cut quality and to extend the battery run-time. Battery run-time extension, again, can be in order 1.7-2 times for twice thinner blade and say 40 teeth blade, compared to the standard cheap blade.
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