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Post by jonathan on Jan 9, 2015 5:15:49 GMT -5
I was just wondering if your bevel range is out or the blade isn't perpendicular to the table at 90, is there a way to make adjustments? |
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 9, 2015 11:50:40 GMT -5
When the blade is at 90 it is in the center of the slot. When you tilt it to 45 it is still in the center of the slot. The discrepancy is about 1.5mm as the blade is takin out a bigger at 45 if that makes sense. To compensate I usually nudge the line roughly 1.5mm away from the mark I would hold it on the fence for a cut at 90. So if I was making a cut 3645 for example I usually would just measure 3545 then hold the mark to the 100mm on the fence giving me my 3645. Now if I was cutting at 45, so 3645 to the short point side. I still just measure 3545 ,now instead of hold the mark at 100mm on the fence I will hold the mark at 101.5 giving me 3645 to the short point side of the cut. Alternatively the 0 point on the fence can be adjusted to correspond with the angle of the blade. I personally don't adjust the 0 point as I feel the time it takes to adjust is pointless cause when bringing the blade back up to 90 all the marks will be off and I would rather keep the marks at 90 correct with the blade. Each sitatutiion is different and sometimes going for the lesser of the evils. Also if making rip cuts depending on what side you position the fence it is just a case of compensating be about 1-1.5mm. Like anything when you use it day in day out yiu get to know where you need to position fences for allowances at angle cuyd
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Post by naildrivingman on Nov 26, 2017 19:16:09 GMT -5
When the blade is at 90 it is in the center of the slot. When you tilt it to 45 it is still in the center of the slot. The discrepancy is about 1.5mm as the blade is takin out a bigger at 45 if that makes sense. To compensate I usually nudge the line roughly 1.5mm away from the mark I would hold it on the fence for a cut at 90. So if I was making a cut 3645 for example I usually would just measure 3545 then hold the mark to the 100mm on the fence giving me my 3645. Now if I was cutting at 45, so 3645 to the short point side. I still just measure 3545 ,now instead of hold the mark at 100mm on the fence I will hold the mark at 101.5 giving me 3645 to the short point side of the cut. Alternatively the 0 point on the fence can be adjusted to correspond with the angle of the blade. I personally don't adjust the 0 point as I feel the time it takes to adjust is pointless cause when bringing the blade back up to 90 all the marks will be off and I would rather keep the marks at 90 correct with the blade. Each sitatutiion is different and sometimes going for the lesser of the evils. Also if making rip cuts depending on what side you position the fence it is just a case of compensating be about 1-1.5mm. Like anything when you use it day in day out yiu get to know where you need to position fences for allowances at angle cuyd I’ve read your response several times and I must be missing something...didn’t the OP ask about adjusting the bevel travel? I just took delivery of a new Erika 70 and my bevel can be off by as much as 0.5 degrees. At zero, my blade is effectively at 89.5~ and at 45 the blade registers an average of 45.5~. In my case, the “bookends” of my bevel adjustment are the same. Theoretically, something underneath needs to be twisted or rotated 0.5 degrees and all would be well. Thanks, Chris |
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Post by naildrivingman on Nov 27, 2017 21:33:03 GMT -5
I’ve reviewed the underside of my Erika. The stops for zero and 45 bevel are tabs that are punched in the front trunnion of the saw. These tabs ground on corresponding wings of the override feature. When the override knob is turned, the wings rotate out of the way, thus allowing the operator to move the stamped tabs past the stop. The only way to adjust bevel that I can determine from my limited inspection is to manipulate the tabs on the trunnion or the corresponding wings on the override feature. I will not be manipulating (grinding, bending, etc) either the tabs or the wings. I can foresee causing problems instead of solving them.
In my situation, if I need absolute 0 or 45, I will utilize the override knob and adjust my bevel using a digital gauge.
I really wish there would be a set screw on the trunnion that the operator could advance or retard to compensate for bevel discrepancy. The upside of my observation is that because of the way the stops are machined it seems likely that the bevel stops cannot change...ever. I’m speculating that 20 years from now the bevel stops will read the same as they do today.
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Post by Eoj on Nov 27, 2017 22:14:03 GMT -5
I’ve reviewed the underside of my Erika. The stops for zero and 45 bevel are tabs that are punched in the front trunnion of the saw. These tabs ground on corresponding wings of the override feature. When the override knob is turned, the wings rotate out of the way, thus allowing the operator to move the stamped tabs past the stop. The only way to adjust bevel that I can determine from my limited inspection is to manipulate the tabs on the trunnion or the corresponding wings on the override feature. I will not be manipulating (grinding, bending, etc) either the tabs or the wings. I can foresee causing problems instead of solving them. In my situation, if I need absolute 0 or 45, I will utilize the override knob and adjust my bevel using a digital gauge. I really wish there would be a set screw on the trunnion that the operator could advance or retard to compensate for bevel discrepancy. The upside of my observation is that because of the way the stops are machined it seems likely that the bevel stops cannot change...ever. I’m speculating that 20 years from now the bevel stops will read the same as they do today. Page 6 , Erika 70 questions for noobie thread , member oncomeme posted on how to fix the bevel stops . |
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Post by naildrivingman on Nov 27, 2017 22:30:36 GMT -5
Yes he did, and I did read his post. He is planning on filing the stop contact point. I expressed that is something I am not confident I could do well, so I chose a work around.
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Post by Eoj on Nov 27, 2017 22:41:04 GMT -5
Yes he did, and I did read his post. He is planning on filing the stop contact point. I expressed that is something I am not confident I could do well, so I chose a work around. Keep reading down to Oct 17 at 12:40 am ,oncomeme posted the correct way for the stop adjustment . |
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Post by naildrivingman on Nov 28, 2017 6:05:42 GMT -5
Yes he did, and I did read his post. He is planning on filing the stop contact point. I expressed that is something I am not confident I could do well, so I chose a work around. Keep reading down to Oct 17 at 12:40 am ,oncomeme posted the correct way for the stop adjustment . I did read that as well and missed it the first say 3-4 times  . The cloth wrapped/cranking with wrench technique is one I will avoid; but loosening the set screw and moving the cam is a worthwhile effort to achieve the end result. Thanks to both of you for the solution and the reference. |
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Post by oncomeme on Nov 28, 2017 22:49:46 GMT -5
Yup; just loosen that screw very slightly and you can spin the knob freely enough to see how the mechanism actually works--it's fairly self-explanatory from there. Once you get it where you want it, just hold the knob steady while you tighten it back, otherwise it'll spin away from where you wanted it. The spring is pretty well seated and you shouldn't need to worry about it flying off or anything like that.
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reno
New Member
Posts: 32 
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Post by reno on Dec 7, 2017 6:00:36 GMT -5
zapp from woodworker.de
1. The small locking button (on the front -3 degrees and must be solved for undercutting) is inside fixed by a Torx screw. This one turns on half a turn.
2. Then use the large angle adjustment wheel to set the saw blade slightly inclined, so that it no longer rests against the arresting stop.
3. Now you can turn the locking button as long as you want in one direction. If you look at it from the back, you can see that the stop now moves as an eccentric. Adjust so that the widest possible game is set.
4. Now use the large angle adjustment wheel to bring the saw blade into an exact 90 degree position using a geodetic triangle and fix it with the clamping lever.
5. Then use the locking button to turn the eccentric until it rests. Tighten the Torx screw on the back - done. The fence now snaps in at exactly 90 degrees each time.
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