|
|
Post by jonathan on Jan 3, 2015 12:30:26 GMT -5
I'm convincing myself I'm going to need to upgrade to an Erika by the time spring comes around. Now I'm still doing some research and I was wondering if any of the lucky Erika owners might want to shoot some clear and detailed pictures or video of the underside of the saw? Motor, blade housing, dust shroud, pull mechanism, ... Whatever is of interest  |
|
|
|
Post by Tom Gensmer on Jan 3, 2015 20:11:39 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jonathan on Jan 4, 2015 0:58:25 GMT -5
I think it'll be an 85 for me. I'm still swinging back and forth between the 70 & 85 because I like the overall footprint of the 70 a lot better to lug around than the 85. But seeing the most important feature for me is the pull-cut capacity, I'll likely gravitate to the biggest variant. Decisions decisions... |
|
|
|
Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 4, 2015 8:23:20 GMT -5
If I was to get another Erika and wasn't governed by stupid uk hse rules I would properly go for the 85. Just because it's already costing a lot of money and to go that little bit further in budget you get the more powerful motor, bigger depth of cut and also a longer cross cut, which at times is nice. Granted it is slightly bulkier and heavier generally in a working day you would only need to set up once. So the extra weight and bulk doesn't come into it
|
|
|
|
Post by Tom Gensmer on Jan 4, 2015 10:26:02 GMT -5
Agreed, here in North America there is only a ~10% price difference between the Erika 70 and Erika 85. Alas, the 85 is not available in 120v, requiring the use of a 120v-->240v converter, which adds another ~$150 to the cost, but more importantly the adapter alone weighs 40lbs/18kg, and is "one more thing" to haul around and set up. If the Erika was my daily saw and/or the sliding table wasn't available I'd probably be willing to work with the converter, but for my needs the 70 should work fine for most of my needs, and if I need a longer crosscut capacity I can always add the sliding table. Here is the parts diagram for the Erika 85. As far as I can tell it's nearly identical to the 70, just stretched a bit and with a larger motor. service.mafell.de/index.php?plugin=hotspot_index&IdTreeGroup=12965&IdProduct=23187&q=erika#mid%3D2794%26murl%3D.%2Fmedia%2FExplosionszeichnungen%2F001577a.gif%26w%3D2807%26h%3D1985 |
|
|
|
Post by kalas on Jan 4, 2015 11:03:02 GMT -5
I understand your desire to see more photos. Before getting mine I spent a lot of time digging through websites to find photos of the saw. It is a shame it is such a rare item in the US and that viewing it in person is hardly an option unless you know someone with it.
I will try to clean it up a little and take some photos. Right now it is covered with sawdust. I use it only my shop so I don't need to lift it around. Getting the 85 was the only option for me.
I have most of the accessories for the saw, except the router fence and the router extension table. I found the router adapte kit to be a bit limited for my use. The kit is high quality and very pricy (like everything else with the saw) but is limited to small bits. However, I love that it attaches to the dovetail on the side of the saw.
Where the extension table should be I have nothing right now. I plan on making my own. I might also make an outfeed table at the end as someone here suggested.
The rip fence is heavy duty steel, but has a tiny bit of flex sinc it is not attached at one end. It is great for quick cuts. For an absolutely firm fence it is best to have two clamping devices to secure a fence guide extension at both ends of the saw. Of course, this is a little more finicky as you would have to loosen it on both ends to adjust, but for multiple cuts this is a good solution.
I love the sliding table and wouldn't be without it.
The supporting leg and sheetmetal support is a must for cutting very long moulding etc. It attaches and is adjusted very quickly.
|
|
|
|
Post by jonathan on Jan 4, 2015 12:35:18 GMT -5
Thank you kalas, that'd be much appreciated! |
|
questa
Junior Member
Posts: 62 
|
Post by questa on Jan 4, 2015 19:26:20 GMT -5
I'm convincing myself I'm going to need to upgrade to an Erika by the time spring comes around. Now I'm still doing some research and I was wondering if any of the lucky Erika owners might want to shoot some clear and detailed pictures or video of the underside of the saw? Motor, blade housing, dust shroud, pull mechanism, ... Whatever is of interest Jonathan, not sure if this will help. Pic shows blade housing and dust collection track, black slider allows to clean out large chips or anything else like the arbor nut if it fell in  . Second pic shows all three fences. The MFA is attached to the slider with a 1M fence. The rip fence has the MFA fence attached and the universal is on the end with a 1M fence. As Kalas mentioned you can secure the 1M fence on both ends of the table with an Erika clamp. I put the story stick there to show with the slider all the way back the distance from fence to blade is 1050mm give or take.   |
|
|
|
Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 4, 2015 19:40:01 GMT -5
Also might be of interest is to show how much dust is blown out of the dust port when making cuts to show how effective the blower aids the dust extraction
|
|
|
|
Post by kalas on Jan 5, 2015 9:05:46 GMT -5
I'm convincing myself I'm going to need to upgrade to an Erika by the time spring comes around. Now I'm still doing some research and I was wondering if any of the lucky Erika owners might want to shoot some clear and detailed pictures or video of the underside of the saw? Motor, blade housing, dust shroud, pull mechanism, ... Whatever is of interest Jonathan, not sure if this will help. Pic shows blade housing and dust collection track, black slider allows to clean out large chips or anything else like the arbor nut if it fell in . Second pic shows all three fences. The MFA is attached to the slider with a 1M fence. The rip fence has the MFA fence attached and the universal is on the end with a 1M fence. As Kalas mentioned you can secure the 1M fence on both ends of the table with an Erika clamp. I put the story stick there to show with the slider all the way back the distance from fence to blade is 1050mm give or take. View AttachmentView AttachmentI hadn't been cleaning out that gutter in a bit. That explains why I had some dust build up under the saw. |
|
|
|
Post by jonathan on Jan 5, 2015 11:03:37 GMT -5
Thanks for the pics!
How satisfied are you guys in general about the dust collection compared to say a stationary cabinet saw, or anything else for that matter, really. |
|
|
|
Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 5, 2015 12:31:11 GMT -5
Honestly, extremely happy with the dust collection. Evan when just using the box it will collect more dust than the average mitre saw. Which has being connected to dust extraction unit. If I'm working in doors and with mdf I do prefer to connect up the dust extraction unit as virtually 96% of dust is collected. Also with mdf the dust I recon is lighter than wood dust and if only using the box there can be slight layer under the saw. Where with the dust extraction connected up there is next to nothing. The only time dust extraction isn't great is if cutting on the edge and the dust can escape one way. Like any other saw. When I went to look at the saw 2 years ago the guy from mafell explained how the extraction worked on the saw with the blower. Basically it's a bit like when you have the front and back door open and there is a through draft, one door will slam. So when the saw is running causing the draft air enter from in front of the saw and the draft caused by the blade gets blown along the channel into the hose and is then extracted away.
|
|
.
