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Post by sawsubject on Mar 1, 2024 16:47:27 GMT -5
I'm extremely lucky to have access to both domino and zeta p2 joining machines through colleagues, but the time to stop cadging is fast approaching.
It's prompted a thought about the Duo Doweler, which may be a complete non-issue, but if there's anywhere to ask its got to be here.
Let's say I want to make a cabinet with a pitched lid, for example to cover an external fuse box. The pitch of the lid is 25 degrees. I can cut the sides of the box with the 25 degree angle, then the lid with the back bevel and an overhand to keep the weather off. How would a duo doweller owner get the alignment right between the lid the side?
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Post by alvychippy on Mar 1, 2024 17:26:20 GMT -5
the 12.5* angle cut wouldn't be easies to be certain, you'd be 100% accurate as adjustable plate works best at set 25* 45* and 90*. Pin is for the edge offset, extension for middle set up, no problems
6:20
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Post by sawsubject on Mar 1, 2024 19:16:25 GMT -5
A great explanation of a great tool, and why I'm considering it despite never having used it.
In my hypothetical cabinet example, I can machine one face (lets say the top edge of the side piece) where I can reference off an acute angle (no problem because the spring pins on the doweler sit nicely against the reference edge). The mating lid seems to me to present a problem because I'll have toreferencing off an obtuse angle (the edge of the material being more than 90* is stopping the tool's pin from referencing of a corresponding datum). How do I get alignment between the side piece and the lid?
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Post by alvychippy on Mar 2, 2024 15:53:26 GMT -5
Resting plate x Adjustment plate creates angle line (normally it's 180* (0*) and 90*... if that's what you are asking
BTW this is an old model, not the new Mafell. Again, I have Virutex AB200 (not as refined machine), I had a handrail joining up job- worked like a dream, without them never working right the old type screw fittings.
As a potential cabinet maker, you'll be shocked as how you lived without one, I was, any angles as 45* joining- not a problem or better would be- perfect solution for joining, also if you'd make natural timber "kites" or simply stringers from smaller pieces- unbelievable accurate, cheap reliable way of joining, if Anything forget the distance fence guide, just use pencil marks... shame my job fallen through couple of week ago to make whole load of radiator covers, cove filling shelves, some veneered cabinets made up, some needed just fitting (made up) etc was going to make quick vid... anw
Here's simplified view Cheers!
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Post by sawsubject on Mar 3, 2024 17:35:36 GMT -5
Right, sorry, I've worked out where I've caused confusion.
By pitched roof, I mean monopitch or lean-to. The roof is high at the back against the wall and pitches in one direction away from the wall.
Can you use the pins to reference the joint between the sides and roof, or do you need to use pencil lines?
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Post by alvychippy on Mar 3, 2024 19:26:28 GMT -5
Right, sorry, I've worked out where I've caused confusion. By pitched roof, I mean monopitch or lean-to. The roof is high at the back against the wall and pitches in one direction away from the wall. Can you use the pins to reference the joint between the sides and roof, or do you need to use pencil lines? Gotcha! Pins are in line with drilling (dowels), so in order to have it secured only on those, you will be able to have referencing off the pins on the ends, but anything in-between will need be worked of the square pencil lines. Parallel (diagonal) position need be marked (and on a doweller there are clear marks where the center of the drilling in) . However, you'll have to calculate- adjust it to go deeper, as there's about 20mm of a flat surface that will end up "in the air", only one back edge to be touching it. More sensible way would have dowells at 90* on a "roof", but angled off 180* to by whatever x* the pitch is.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Mar 17, 2024 3:40:00 GMT -5
For the side parts use the outside as your reference. On the machine set the fence to 90 so it will reference off the outside now lift up to 9mm so it drill in the centre. To deal with the 25mm offset on the lid lift the fence up 25mm. You will need reference marks where to drill. For the front part set the fence to 25 or 75 basically so it matches the angle from the outside as reference have the fence height at 0. For the lid part mark a line that corresponds to the holes on the front holes in thier centre. From that line marked on the lid come up the base height on the machine to the center of drill in the machine and clamp a piece of wood for reference then drill where you have marked. The thin to do is to have a reference side or mark and work from that
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