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Post by aas on Jan 8, 2022 15:00:42 GMT -5
It's been 4 years since Eurobois 2018 trade show and I first heard Mafell were releasing the new Duo Dowel machine. A lot of you already have one, I've seen a fair few questions trying to understand all the clip on accessories.
I've been happy with the DD40P, although it doesn't really lend itself to carcass work. I finally picked up a DDF40, I understand at last all the questions. Quite a steep learning curve, but an impressive tool nonetheless. I got the Maxi-max version, did my first bit of work with it today.
It will take a bit of time for the accessories to become second nature to use, but already very pleased with the extension arm and it's easy adjustment, especially the adjustable rod for off-setting the edge band.
Doing a custom build in, using DDF40 and Zeta P2 for Divario concealed shelf fittings and Tenso and dowels for glue constructin. Much quicker registering of the base as I can set up a straight edge, then the Zeta P2 and DDF40 both run off the same line - a lot more timing consuming to do with the old DD40P.
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Jan 8, 2022 18:00:48 GMT -5
Would appreciate a hands on comparison of the the DD40 and the DDF40 if you would be so kind.
John
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Post by lincoln on Jan 8, 2022 18:40:21 GMT -5
The extension arm/stop is FANTASTIC! I find the 'F' easier to use than the 'P', probably due to the 'standard' way of using it - like a biscuit joiner, domino etc. I hardly ever use it flat on a bench, but the flat bottom design makes it so much easier to register against a straight edge, for mid shelves, panels etc. All the controls are great, especially the on/off switch. Also love how you switch between different depths. Just received a pair of 6.1mm and 8.2mm bits for MDF work, will give them a test this weekend.
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Post by aas on Jan 9, 2022 6:27:48 GMT -5
Would appreciate a hands on comparison of the the DD40 and the DDF40 if you would be so kind. John Once I've got a bit more mileage under the belt with the DDF!
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Post by aas on Jan 9, 2022 6:33:36 GMT -5
Also love how you switch between different depths. This was the nice surprise - I'd not spotted that one, but a very useful feature.
Also referencing off the base can be done in three ways - first off the workbench, second with the screw on aluminium fitting supplied while stood up, third upside down with the same fitting for doing the ends of panels - for doing this I adjust the swing down fence under the workpiece and adjust up (so the reference remains the base, the swing down fence becomes a support) and the DDF can literally hang in mid air.
What do you use as a rail for reference when doing shelf holes?.. I've been using the Mafell DD rail because it locks front to back, put a pain to get in to place and square.
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Post by lincoln on Jan 9, 2022 9:48:36 GMT -5
Also love how you switch between different depths. This was the nice surprise - I'd not spotted that one, but a very useful feature.
Also referencing off the base can be done in three ways - first off the workbench, second with the screw on aluminium fitting supplied while stood up, third upside down with the same fitting for doing the ends of panels - for doing this I adjust the swing down fence under the workpiece and adjust up (so the reference remains the base, the swing down fence becomes a support) and the DDF can literally hang in mid air.
What do you use as a rail for reference when doing shelf holes?.. I've been using the Mafell DD rail because it locks front to back, put a pain to get in to place and square.
I have the rail, but do most of my holes with a Blum Mini-Press.
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Post by lincoln on Jan 13, 2022 6:53:25 GMT -5
...and I can highly recommend tbe oversize drill bits. Using the 8.2mm, in 32mm MDF, for a built in media unit/bookcase I'm working on at the moment.
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Post by aas on Jan 14, 2022 3:01:47 GMT -5
What do you use as a rail for reference when doing shelf holes?..
I have the rail, but do most of my holes with a Blum Mini-Press. I badly explained... if you need to do a set of holes at 90 degrees to the front face, what do you use as a reference for the base of the DDF40 ? - ideally, you need a built in square to reference off the front edge of the panel and the ability to clamp the rail to the work piece.
I'm talking about putting in holes using Divario, not a continuous line of holes (which to be fair I can see the point, I just don't like it visually) - with Divario, you put in the holes where you need them, and the rest of the install is hole free.
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Post by bigtaco on Jan 14, 2022 15:31:28 GMT -5
...and I can highly recommend tbe oversize drill bits. Using the 8.2mm, in 32mm MDF, for a built in media unit/bookcase I'm working on at the moment. Lincoln - What are the pro's and con's of using the oversize bits vs the regular size bits (8.2mm vs 8mm for 8mm dowels). I struggle sometimes getting dowels in or out during dry fitting or getting in after applying glue using same size bits as dowels. Thanks,
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Post by lincoln on Jan 14, 2022 19:06:16 GMT -5
...and I can highly recommend tbe oversize drill bits. Using the 8.2mm, in 32mm MDF, for a built in media unit/bookcase I'm working on at the moment. Lincoln - What are the pro's and con's of using the oversize bits vs the regular size bits (8.2mm vs 8mm for 8mm dowels). I struggle sometimes getting dowels in or out during dry fitting or getting in after applying glue using same size bits as dowels. Thanks, They're definitely not as loose as I thought they would be - they are the perfect size for applying glue in the hole, then inserting the dowel and twisting it in the hole to spread the glue evenly. Once you do that, there's hardly any play. The pieces push together much easier, though you still need clamps to get that last bit closed up, of course. Also makes dry fitting much easier, can pull the dowels out by hand, though it takes a bit more strength than I thought it would. No cons, that I've come across so far. All this info relates to the 8.2mm bits, using hardwood fluted dowels, in MDF. Haven't tried the 6.1mm bits yet, but I'll give them a go on some workshop drawers I'm about to make.
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Post by lincoln on Jan 14, 2022 19:10:09 GMT -5
I have the rail, but do most of my holes with a Blum Mini-Press. I badly explained... if you need to do a set of holes at 90 degrees to the front face, what do you use as a reference for the base of the DDF40 ? - ideally, you need a built in square to reference off the front edge of the panel and the ability to clamp the rail to the work piece.
I'm talking about putting in holes using Divario, not a continuous line of holes (which to be fair I can see the point, I just don't like it visually) - with Divario, you put in the holes where you need them, and the rest of the install is hole free.
I use the actual partition/division as the reference. Clamped face to face to the bottom panel, front edges flush. Same as this:
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Post by aas on Jan 15, 2022 3:34:47 GMT -5
OK, thanks. I'll have to find a solution for what I want to do.
I make up a cut list with holes marked out, then I grab a sheet, trim to size, run the edge bander, trim, flip and trim, then drill out the holes, wrap the board for transport and put it aside. So at the point I drill up the side panels, I don't have the partition/shelves made. Also, using melamine board, you want to minimise manipulation until fitted, as even the slightest knock can chip the edge.
The ideal would be a straight edge that can be locked on to the board (a bit like how the DD40 rails clamps), with a built in square and an add-on parallel guide with measurements and drop stops... asking a lot I know.
I've just picked up the Festool FS-WA which can be ordered with an optional extension bar and length stop, (this is not the same as the TSO based FS-WA/90 which I already have - very nice rail square by the way) - it also has a built in calibration screw for getting the measurement spot on to the guide rails cut line. It remains to be seen how this works out for me, it only goes up to about 1150mm, but I guess holes can be drilled measuring from each end for longer panels.
I've seen FCtools does a DD40 rail that locks on to the FC rail square, but no parallel guide.
Other option of course is to make up something out of plywood, which is not a bad option.
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