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Post by roberthickman on Jan 16, 2014 3:31:29 GMT -5
Hi folks, this is my first post here! My name is robert. I am living in the Black Forrest area in Germany. Only a few miles from Oberndorf and the Mafell factory. Consequently I am using a couple of those very nice machines, such as Erika 85E, KSS400, MT55, P1cc, DD40P, AD160, KSP85Ec, LO50E, LO65Ec and S50M. To optimize things I thought it could be helpful to use the LO50E with the DD40 drilling template. To do this I created another template to use with my LO50E. But take a look at the attached pictures:  This is the template I made  Template mounted underneath the LO50E  All in use Regards Robert |
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 16, 2014 5:11:17 GMT -5
Welcome aboard Robert! I absolutely love this idea!!
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Jan 16, 2014 5:28:30 GMT -5
Nice idea like it I've being thinking of doing the same for my festool of1010 just never got round to nice and simple. The thing I like about this idea you are not tied to a perfect 32 panel and can adjust to suit so much easier
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Post by roberthickman on Jan 16, 2014 5:29:07 GMT -5
Thanks! I forgot to say that the drill holes are exactly in the line of holes made by a DD40. So it is very easy to set one 8mm hole into a line of 5mm holes just by enlarging a 5mm hole with a 8mm drill in a LO50E.
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Post by jalvis on Jan 16, 2014 10:46:28 GMT -5
Bravo, Robert!
I've seen your jig on another forum in the past. Really glad you joined MUF.
Are you originally from Germany? Your English is really good.
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Post by jonathan on Jan 16, 2014 11:07:39 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum and may I say, excellent first post  |
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Post by roberthickman on Jan 16, 2014 11:08:22 GMT -5
Hi,
Yes, I pesented my jig in a german woodworking forum. I think you've seen it there. And yes, I am originally from Germany. And my English.... well.. still working on it!
Cheers!
Robert
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Post by GhostFist on Jan 16, 2014 12:14:09 GMT -5
Much better than my german
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sgtrjp
Junior Member
Posts: 65 
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Post by sgtrjp on Feb 6, 2014 12:21:32 GMT -5
Seems like a great candidate for the 3D printing thread. I'd be in for one.
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Post by stofke72 on Feb 8, 2014 8:27:49 GMT -5
If you'd upload the dimensions/sketch I offer to convert it into a sketchup model and an STL file for 3D printing.
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Post by GhostFist on Feb 8, 2014 12:29:18 GMT -5
I wonder if it's actually a better candidate for cnc as it's essentially just flat stock. 3d printing however, can prototype a more robust version With added features.
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sgtrjp
Junior Member
Posts: 65
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Post by sgtrjp on Feb 11, 2014 9:53:06 GMT -5
I wonder if it's actually a better candidate for cnc as it's essentially just flat stock. 3d printing however, can prototype a more robust version With added features. Yes, I agree. 3d printing for prototype, but ultimately, it should be cnc. Roberthickman already has produced an excellent jig, that I am very interested in. Of course I'm also interested to hear about the added features that GhostFist has in mind. I like the idea of Lexan/acrylic as could help with alignment. The template slots and the 'bit hole' are fixed, but the question is what to do with router attachment. I'm new at this, but I see a few options: 1. Leave a small hole(8mm?) centered where the cutter will be. Then with an 8mm bit inserted in the router, the user could mark and drill the mounting holes as needed for the particular router model. Once mounted, use a bigger bit to enlarge the hole. Or, maybe a perforated circle could be cut when it's CNC'd. Such that it would leave the small hole for alignment, but then could be snapped out later. 2. CNC the router mounting holes, model specific, from the beginning. This would require advanced knowledge of router bases that may or may not exist. But, I would think that if this was possible, you could keep the cost down that people could consider owning a jig for more than one of their routers. You would just specify the router model at time of order. 3. CNC holes for common router models. From this group, the Festool and Maffel models would be a good start. I like #2 best, but I realize it may be 'pie in the sky', but it would be the cleanest and avoid confusion when using it. |
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Post by GhostFist on Feb 11, 2014 10:24:18 GMT -5
The question remains, what would you use this jig for? for me I think it would be good for cup hinges in cabinets based off the 32mm system and would come in handy if you had to make an MFT style worktop. the original jig seems simple and affordable to construct, going through the process of 3d printing a more robust jig then manufacturing one or several is more costly but if the demand is there it could be worth it.
What I would like from this jig is accurately etched center lines to the router bit, quick release and attachment without sacrificing accuracy and the ability to use different clearance templates similar to a router table.
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Post by jalvis on Feb 11, 2014 12:26:52 GMT -5
A CNC would be very quick. Although I'm not sure what I would use it for.
If you want to make one why don't you just clamp the "Template Guide" to some Acrylic and use a Top Bearing Router bit and work out the pattern?
If you want the hole being drilled with the Router to match the DD40 then take some scrap, drill with the DD40 using the template guide, place the newly made plate for the router over the holes, place the router on the plate and plunge into the hole the DD40 made.
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Post by roberthickman on Feb 27, 2014 3:49:47 GMT -5
I also think there is more potential in the jig. In fact, for an upcoming new project I am thinking about a milling jig for Hettich VB21 connecting fittings based on the DD40 drilling template. Another option could be a repositioning guide for the DD40 drilling template. I use my template quite often for cup hinges because they all are based on the system 32. The jig can also be used with the powerful LO65ec. Milling extremely accurate cup hinges in hard wood isn't a problem with a LO65ec. Robert  Using the jig to drill holes for handles is another nice option. The LO50/65 parallell guide is very helpful. Dust collection makes live easier! |
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