andey
New Member
Posts: 19
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Post by andey on Dec 4, 2019 3:17:13 GMT -5
Hi,
i now use seperate tracks for the 45(deg) and normal (0deg) cut lines.
I plan to move to cordless but i'm worried that the cutlines on the splinter strip don't match. Also, for those who owns 2 corded saws of the same model. do the cutlines match?
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Post by kraftt on Dec 4, 2019 11:07:49 GMT -5
Wouldn't cut lines also vary (to some degree) just changing blades and further compound this concern ?
If you only use one particular brand & model blade you could easily replace the splinter guards, if needed, when new saw(s) arrive if the blades cut farther away from your existing cut splinter guards.
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Post by aas on Dec 4, 2019 14:38:24 GMT -5
I have both 230v and 18v, cut lines are same on both... both are out at 45deg!, you have the right solution for that already - two sets of rails.
The 230v stays in the workshop, used almost solely on Festool rails; the 18v for site use on Mafell or Bosch rails. The most annoying is the slop adjusters need a lot of dialing in between Festool and Mafell rails.
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Post by Knight Woodworks on Dec 4, 2019 18:48:02 GMT -5
I own both a corded (120 volt) and cordless mt55, the cut lines match. At 45 degrees both are out equally by about 2 mm. I own both corded and cordless kss300. The cut lines match each other and my mt55s at 90 degrees.
John
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andey
New Member
Posts: 19
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Post by andey on Dec 20, 2019 5:06:29 GMT -5
Wouldn't cut lines also vary (to some degree) just changing blades and further compound this concern ? If you only use one particular brand & model blade you could easily replace the splinter guards, if needed, when new saw(s) arrive if the blades cut farther away from your existing cut splinter guards. Trying to limit the variations as this is more for personal use. I tried to use with the Bosch clamps and I'm quite OCD and the missus notices the variance which is why I came to this question in he first place.
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Post by aas on Dec 20, 2019 8:55:56 GMT -5
What exactly is she 'noticing'?
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Post by kraftt on Dec 20, 2019 11:10:32 GMT -5
Wouldn't cut lines also vary (to some degree) just changing blades and further compound this concern ? If you only use one particular brand & model blade you could easily replace the splinter guards, if needed, when new saw(s) arrive if the blades cut farther away from your existing cut splinter guards. Trying to limit the variations as this is more for personal use. I tried to use with the Bosch clamps and I'm quite OCD and the missus notices the variance which is why I came to this question in he first place. So my understanding of original post was the concern that new cordless MT55 might not register blade exactly the same location/distance as existing corded which would require replacing splinter guards to recut / re-register to new cordless (?) Would you be selling the existing 'corded' MT55 or keeping it and expecting / hoping to use same tracks / rails with both saws? My guess is that since the baseplates on the MT55 are adjustable (and they are adjusted during assembly) it seems unlikely that blades would register 'exactly' the same. Not saying they couldn't be close enough though. But being that the bases are adjustable - if you felt comfortable adjusting them yourself (once you understood how they can be adjusted) I think you could match them up to existing cut s.g.'s and/or to each other and s.g.'s The one issue I see has to do with differing user feedback of how far away the blade cuts from s.g. at 45º. Everyone who has chimed in reports different distances. After taking mine apart I can see how variances in part machining + mating to plastic parts could slightly raise or lower how closely the baseplate mates with the upper motor assembly - this greatly affects the distance the blades cuts from the s.g. at 45º. That said, you can adjust this distance too with shims.* *(to match both saws to cut the same distance at 45º using dedicated rail for 45/bevels - not necessarily to get blade to cut the same at 45º & 90º using one rail. I've experimented and the amount of shimming required to get MT55 to register to s.g. the same at 45º & 90º almost exceeds the mating height of some other parts so I wouldn't recommend it. But some slight shimming I don't see as a problem).
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andey
New Member
Posts: 19
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Post by andey on Dec 20, 2019 11:59:11 GMT -5
reason why it varied and she noticed was because i was using scraps cut using a combination of different brand of tape measure and different track sets to cut the scraps... the differences between them were enough to make things not lined up. after that, i decided to keep the tools consistent and the problem disappeared. apologies for the long story below.
im still not a regular/seasoned woodworker (came from from machine design using eg autocad, unigraphics and i rarely hands on wood until i started learning sketchup after i got a new apartment) so apologies for the excessive story.
i have the aerofix 1.6m (A) and another joined track set(0.8 and 1.6)(B) which i used to cut 45deg through all 4 corners through 36mm thick birch ply for my table previously. (huge challenge for me to keep it from overtilting over 1.6m... managed to stall the mt55).
fast forward in time, i decided to use the scraps from other projects on newer project (i assumed they were the same). At that time, i didn't realise that i used different tape measures and different tracks (A or B) to cut them. I didnt bother to line them up as i already labled them correctly and i was using the cut plans from sketchup to cut dowels using the dd40p with constant datum. i suddenly have problem of cuts not flush)
initially i couldn't figure out why it was slightly off. after removing the variables only then i realise that the 2 set of tracks A/B) had variance and to make things worse, there is a slight variances between the brands of measuring tools i used (unbranded from a bosch drill, stanley tylon,festool,woodpecker t square).
keeping the woodpecker as the control set, it turns out that for me, festool is the most consistent, stanley had a slight offset (in short distances consistent but became bigger over long distances. The worst of all is the cheapo bosch tape measure....
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Post by keylow on Dec 20, 2019 12:12:17 GMT -5
“I've experimented and the amount of shimming required to get MT55 to register to s.g. the same at 45º & 90º almost exceeds the mating height of some other parts so I wouldn't recommend it. But some slight shimming I don't see as a problem).”
So, just get another set of rails for bevels and don’t worry about it?
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Post by keylow on Dec 20, 2019 12:18:41 GMT -5
“keeping the woodpecker as the control set, it turns out that for me, festool is the most consistent, stanley had a slight offset (in short distances consistent but became bigger over long distances. The worst of all is the cheapo bosch tape measure....”
Tape measures are not reliable for precise measurements but if you stick to only one you can get consistent results, which is usually good enough.
For the example you related, use a combination square with a long enough rule to set the distance between the track and an already cut edge. Do that at both the top and bottom of the workpiece and the next cut will be parallel to the first. Keep the combination square at the same setting and the next piece will match the first.
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Post by kraftt on Dec 20, 2019 20:00:51 GMT -5
“I've experimented and the amount of shimming required to get MT55 to register to s.g. the same at 45º & 90º almost exceeds the mating height of some other parts so I wouldn't recommend it. But some slight shimming I don't see as a problem).” So, just get another set of rails for bevels and don’t worry about it? It's certainly an option. For myself, if all I'm concerned about when cutting a 45º is a sharp edge I will score backwards first, if material is finicky I may have to use tape. If consistency with multiple pieces is the other concern I just factor in the distance my blade cuts away from s.g. to my desired measurement (first checked with test cut on scrap). That is if I can find a section of s.g. I haven't eff'ed up. If I can't then I grab my reference rail, the one with the perfectly straight s.g. ... oh yeah, it's messed up too. Getting to be pretty good a replacing splinter guards.
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