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Post by kraftt on Mar 26, 2018 18:01:12 GMT -5
I know any blade will do but I was curious what blade is most appropriate for cutting drywall? Need to cut in some doorways and thought I would give the MT55 a try with Aerofix (or maybe just freehand without rail following a line). I see the MF26 uses 24 tooth blades but I wondered if anyone has experience cutting drywall with mafell and what their thoughts are. Is a used dull blade just as good and anything else?
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Post by Eoj on Mar 26, 2018 19:20:30 GMT -5
The 24 tooth blade on the mf26 cuts drywall very good. Need a good vacuum!! The Metabo impulse vacuum got quite the auto clean workout. The blade felt sharp after cutting 10 sheets of 5/8 fire rock,have not tried the blade on wood after use.
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Post by kraftt on Mar 26, 2018 22:12:47 GMT -5
" Need a good vacuum!!" Amen to that, that's pretty much the whole show if your going after drywall with a circular saw. I was checking out handyman's Instagram site and think I might also add an Air Scrubber to the job.
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Post by thehandyman on Mar 26, 2018 22:25:29 GMT -5
" Need a good vacuum!!" Amen to that, that's pretty much the whole show if your going after drywall with a circular saw. I was checking out handyman's Instagram site and think I might also add an Air Scrubber to the job. You should. It's well worth it! Love that thing.
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Post by holmz on Mar 27, 2018 4:08:50 GMT -5
I used the standard blade, and it worked fine.
Amen to the vacuum, it looked like a fog show outside without it.
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Post by naildrivingman on Mar 27, 2018 5:03:41 GMT -5
I know any blade will do but I was curious what blade is most appropriate for cutting drywall? Need to cut in some doorways and thought I would give the MT55 a try with Aerofix (or maybe just freehand without rail following a line). I see the MF26 uses 24 tooth blades but I wondered if anyone has experience cutting drywall with mafell and what their thoughts are. Is a used dull blade just as good and anything else? So, if I understand your task, you are cutting holes in an existing wall in order to install passages (doors)? If true, your greater concern is hitting fasteners. For quick drywall cuts I’ll use a 4” grinder and a hand held vac hose. A grinder wheel does not fracture fasteners like a toothed blade will. It’s not the cleanest, but it works. If I’m going for better dust control, I’ll use a simple razor knife. I don’t know that a track saw would be my first choice for this task.
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Post by kraftt on Mar 27, 2018 10:00:32 GMT -5
Agreed. Even a simple keyhole saw kept at a 45º to wall plane is also reasonably fast but we’ve found some rather creative methods of running lo-volt through the walls by previous builder. It’s an old studio or possibly a CGI mill that sat un-leased for 5 years and the new tenant wants to keep as much of the existing network intact as possible. So it’s partially about perception, if I open walls and discover cables but ‘I’ didn’t cut or nick them then it’s up to them to then decide what to do next vs being someone to blame for their lack of planning or budget. If I only had a few doors and passages I wouldn’t mind doing it manually. My thought was the speed of the saw plus depth control (plus good extraction - if those MF26 videos are legit). The scrubber is because I want a new toy if the hose falls off the saw mid cut. I appreciate the heads-up on hitting buried fasteners, I will definitely be tracing my lines with magnets before each cut.
*sitting here looking at a couple of Pansonic FV-40NLF1 inline fans I picked up for another job and wonder if they’d also make good cheap scrubbers if HEPA wasn’t the goal. They’re already in a steel case so you could mount wheels on them, the duct is only 8” in/out but you could mount a .5 micron prefilter bag in front of the inlet. Only 440 cfm though.
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Post by henrun on Apr 2, 2018 15:58:48 GMT -5
Makita has an 18V drywall saw with specialty blades and integrated dustholder and vac connection. Looks pretty useful if you are doing a lot. It apparenty works very well overhead.
Depending on size and what else is inside the drywall I have used multicutters, jigsaws and the KSS. Multicutter with the half round blade is pretty good at tracing lines and running a vac nozzle beside the cut makes for minimal dust pluming. I don't favor the tracksaw unless the cut needs to be very clean - old blades work well in drywall. True about hidden fasteners, one reason I use the multicutter and the half round blade, or check the line with a strong magnet before I cut into it.
I don't work drywall very often but there is a lot of different ways to cut it that work well unless you do it on a regular basis, then I would look into the Makita - if you are into that brand - or another more dedicated solution that also handles drywall dust well.
I would not choose a grinder myself (cough cough) but some grinders like the Festool DSC actually does well with dust management and I would not mind using it. I just don't schlepp the grinder along unless I specifically need it for something.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 3, 2018 10:49:46 GMT -5
Didn’t know that Makita drywall saw existed, very handy I think. It actually went rather well. Set saw to 18mm depth (on rail / 160 24tooth *all I had that was junk), brought extra vac for aerofix and used shop-vac with .5 bag for saw, and ran MT at lowest speed. Knew I wasn’t plunging full so added some tape half way down plunge opening on motor side. The whole set up was rather ridiculous but sometimes you just get it in your head what you want to do - and I wanted to just press ‘automatic’ this time. The speed of cut sorta makes up for the setup. You just measure out three marks on wall for opening, push level against rail, click on vac (foot switch) and start from the top. Plunging is weird because your holding the saw backwards with one hand on blade casing and other hands thumb on trigger release and middle finger pushing sideways on switch towards thumb. It starts to get dusty once one side of wall has been opened, so I switched to sawzall for opposite side because a that point I could see exactly what was inside. In some places I slipped in king & jack studs into drywall cavity pre-drilling straight through drywall to drive screws from both sides into top / bottom plate adding a little construction adhesive to ends first. Used rails again to cut any studs above slipped in headers. Hit those from one side only with MT and finished off through cut with sawzall leaving just a slit in drywall all because I wanted to minimize drywall work (lol). Could never have done any of this if I wasn’t by myself that day, too many people would have been shaking their heads, but I had fun.
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Post by Eoj on Sept 18, 2018 20:38:07 GMT -5
linkPart one video............part two link
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Post by kraftt on Sept 18, 2018 21:11:58 GMT -5
Very cool Eoj, thanks for posting these. Have you noticed any extraction difference using the MT55 vs MF26 for drywall when using a single blade?
(The videos remind me that I am sane. In between doing my own jobs I recently made the mistake of taking on supervisory work on larger builds and I'm so beaten down at the end of the day managing ridiculously sloppy & insanely incompetent subs that others have hired. So much faster/simpler/easier to work with 'great' tools, work clean, and do things right but so hard to get others to understand the benefits.)
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Post by Eoj on Sept 18, 2018 21:37:26 GMT -5
Haven’t used the mt55 for cutting drywall,dust collection is better with full backing on the bottom of cut.Today was two sheets of drywall for window and door returns in the basement.Drywall crew would have made a huge mess cutting strips and installing in a occupied house.
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Post by kraftt on Sept 20, 2018 10:36:40 GMT -5
Forgot to ask...
Do you have a blade preference for cutting drywall like a fiber cement 4 tooth blade or if you don't bother with drywall that often just using any beat up blade?
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Post by Eoj on Sept 21, 2018 8:07:38 GMT -5
Have only used a 24 tooth blade ,the cut is clean enough for drywall. Do have the 4 tooth blade for cutting Hardie siding and Hardie backer board ,primarily use the kss400 with the 4 tooth blade .Having the kss track to crosscut Hardie siding is slick,so much faster than the fiber shears.
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Post by holmz on Sept 21, 2018 16:34:39 GMT -5
Forgot to ask... Do you have a blade preference for cutting drywall like a fiber cement 4 tooth blade or if you don't bother with drywall that often just using any beat up blade? I do not know if it is abrasive, but drywall cuts like butter and a 30+ tooth job worked a champ... with no great effect note using it it later on wood.
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