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Post by rizzoa13 on Aug 13, 2016 9:49:51 GMT -5
Alright so I'll admit I'm slightly confused on the reason to step up to the kss 80 for normal building materials? It seems the 60 can still bevel cut a standard 2x4. On the other hand by going up to the 80 you still can't quite crosscut a 4x4. (It leaves a sliver of wood just like the Erika 85)
So for framing or decking what does the kss80 gain you? Just the extra power?
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Aug 13, 2016 11:39:03 GMT -5
60 degrees compared to 45 on the 60
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 13, 2016 12:52:16 GMT -5
And the greater depth of cut on a 45 degree angle. I am looking at adding a smaller saw like the 60 or 300 to compliment my 80 as the 80 is heavy after using it for extended periods. The mass and weight helps powering through thicker hardwoods, but having a lighter weight saw is appealing for many tasks.
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Post by rizzoa13 on Aug 13, 2016 13:00:45 GMT -5
Depth of cut on a 45 is a good point but if the 60 can bevel a 2x4 then it could bevel 8/4 boards. It's not often I need to bevel a 10/4 boards it's just not a practical size.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 13, 2016 13:40:00 GMT -5
Yep -- and you are right about cutting 4x - it is a very, very small sliver -- less than 1 mm or so on most boards. I wish that they would have just made the blade 1mm bigger in diameter and the problem would be solved.
If I were buying new I think I would opt for the 60 since it has all of the refined features of the 80 in a smaller package (assuming you do not need to bevel 60 degrees). I might be adding one anyway and have both as we have been discussing on the other thread. If the 300 were upgraded to the 40 specs in a corded version then I would likely buy that.
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Post by toomanytoys on Aug 13, 2016 14:13:33 GMT -5
1mm on the radius, 2mm on the diameter to not leave 1mm of the board. Yeah, being picky.
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Post by erik on Aug 13, 2016 16:45:34 GMT -5
I think the plunge mechanism on the 60 closely resembles the 400 and I'm not a fan. It needs to be lubricated to stop from sticking...not so on the 80. The plunge is exceptionally smooth.
That may not matter for most dimensional work with the guide bow but if you use it with the guide rails it may be a point to consider.
As for power, I never touched the 60 but I used the 80 to straight edge some 5/4 W Oak yesterday and even with a 56 tooth count blade, it traveled quickly and it yielded glue ready joints where the erika 70 and MT 55 struggled a bit. When I a had to frame jack rafters and LVL hips I would have loved to have this saw.
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Post by rizzoa13 on Aug 13, 2016 17:14:28 GMT -5
On websites im reading the kss60 bevels to 60• or am I reading that wrong? Seems like from this thread that it doesn't.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Aug 13, 2016 17:39:25 GMT -5
The 60 relates to the depth of cut on the 60 not the tilt angel. The older generation ksp65 did tilt to 60. On the track it can cut angles of plus or minus 60 degrees
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 13, 2016 18:06:01 GMT -5
On websites im reading the kss60 bevels to 60• or am I reading that wrong? Seems like from this thread that it doesn't. Aaron nailed it -- it cuts 60 degrees with the KSS track. But bevel goes from 0 to 45 only on the saw body.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 13, 2016 18:06:42 GMT -5
I think the plunge mechanism on the 60 closely resembles the 400 and I'm not a fan. It needs to be lubricated to stop from sticking...not so on the 80. The plunge is exceptionally smooth. That may not matter for most dimensional work with the guide bow but if you use it with the guide rails it may be a point to consider. As for power, I never touched the 60 but I used the 80 to straight edge some 5/4 W Oak yesterday and even with a 56 tooth count blade, it traveled quickly and it yielded glue ready joints where the erika 70 and MT 55 struggled a bit. When I a had to frame jack rafters and LVL hips I would have loved to have this saw. Interesting that it sticks - I thought it was the same mechanism as the 80.
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Post by wrightwoodwork on Aug 13, 2016 19:27:05 GMT -5
I think the 80 has the advantage of weight. Both my 400s need the occasional spray with oil to make it smooth plunging. Also a slight forward push helps I find
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Aug 14, 2016 1:20:18 GMT -5
Makes sense - I have never had any issues with the plunging on my 80. Smooth as silk from day one. A couple drops of 3:1 would free up any sticking. I have to do that with my routers sometimes.
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