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Post by kraftt on Apr 15, 2017 21:08:40 GMT -5
On mine, and maybe others, it looks like the only thing to watch is the door when fully open. Castings may shrink differently (?) or the hinge pins drilled with a half mm of difference making bottom of door closer or farther from a 165mm blade. Mine doesn't have the door clearance when fully open but that wouldn't stop you from installing blade, just don't fully open door. (you could grind door too). But it seems clear that once door is closed it's all good.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Apr 16, 2017 2:31:45 GMT -5
That looks tight, I would avoid
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Post by reflector on Apr 16, 2017 10:17:42 GMT -5
Technically speaking that could be used safely if you're worried about the clearance tolerance. Plunge downwards but not enough so the blade protrudes, power on, plunge further, cut, power off but do not immediately retract the blade back into the housing until it has spun down.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 16, 2017 11:04:34 GMT -5
That looks tight, I would avoid If someone could benefit from the option of a Bosch 165 I just didn't want them to be discouraged if they tried a 165 and it rubbed against the 'open' door. There's plenty of clearance as soon as you tilt the door a few degrees closed. And with door locked closed and blade in operation there doesn't seem to be anything to be concerned about.
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Post by My 2 pennies on Apr 16, 2017 13:59:17 GMT -5
Yes I understand and It might work but generally it's better not to exceed the manufacturers recommended blade size of any cutting machine , it can be dangerous.
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Post by kraftt on Apr 16, 2017 16:58:15 GMT -5
Without question you are at risk using power tools especially if you misuse or exceed their capacities and anyone reading these forums should understand this before assuming the actions of others imply otherwise. Anyone attempting to use any blade other than those approved & designed to work with their saw accepts all risk associated.
Having said that, Bosch’s track saw is a clone of Mafell and other than the door on the MT55cc, when open, my own personal measurements can’t find any locations where a 165 blade, not exceeding certain plate & kerf thickness, would come in contact with enclosure.
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Post by My 2 pennies on Apr 16, 2017 18:00:47 GMT -5
They both cut 57mm but use different size blades. The Bosch might have a slight bigger housing or some other difference
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Post by kraftt on Apr 16, 2017 18:23:54 GMT -5
( Implying that they use same motor, so if there’s clearance the extra 1.5mm depth / .059in. -still same distance from arbor as Bosch-shouldn’t be placing that excessive a demand on motor unless you’re cutting Brazilian Walnut at full depth. Wider kerf, non Mafell, non 165, blades also place more demand on motor. )
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Post by holmz on Apr 16, 2017 22:07:08 GMT -5
Without question you are at risk using power tools especially if you misuse or exceed their capacities and anyone reading these forums should understand this before assuming the actions of others imply otherwise. Anyone attempting to use any blade other than those approved & designed to work with their saw accepts all risk associated. Having said that, Bosch’s track saw is a clone of Mafell and other than the door on the MT55cc, when open, my own personal measurements can’t find any locations where a 165 blade, not exceeding certain plate & kerf thickness, would come in contact with enclosure. How many sharpenings does it take until it becomes a 162?
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Post by My 2 pennies on Apr 17, 2017 2:37:36 GMT -5
The Bosch does look like a really good blade, good price aswell but Does it give a cleaner cut over the Mafell?
Has any one used the 52t tenryu blades does it give a cleaner cut over the Mafell ? Does any retailer ship the tenryu blades to the uk?
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Post by kraftt on Apr 17, 2017 9:53:29 GMT -5
To both posts - I don’t know. ( holmz, good point ). Combinations of variables like material, speed settings, tooth grind, feed rate, if the “toe-in” is set correctly on saw (base plate guide to upper motor/arbor alignment). I suppose if you own 240v or 110v 50hz or if you use the 110v 50hz on 60hz can even make speed comparisons vary.
Certainly one part of the solution is an assortment of blades to take demand off of 'best' blades which is where the lower cost Tenryu’s came in for me when I’m not cutting sheet (or depending on how you pronounce that last word - when I am cutting sheet).
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Post by toomanytoys on Apr 17, 2017 10:07:08 GMT -5
Diameter change 3% increased load, reduce feedrate by 3%. If you want to get real hyper, cut by clamp-on ammeter.
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amt
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Post by amt on Apr 17, 2017 13:44:09 GMT -5
I have been using the Bosch 165MM 20-tooth ripping blade lately with no problems. I am cutting 2" thick Poplar 16 feet long. No adverse affects, although I thought it would cut a little faster. I did not try the stock Mafell 48-tooth blade on this type of cut, as I assumed it would struggle. I have the Freud 14 tooth blade on order and will compare to that soon. I used the Tenryu blades with the Festool TS 55, and they worked OK (however, always felt the saw was underpowered), but I think they have a kerf quite a but wider than the standard Mafell blades (unless you get the Tenyru thin kerf one which is only high tooth count). I am probably going to order a few more blades for the hell of it. Bosch 32 and 48 tooth, maybe the Tenryu thin kerf. I don't see much point in ordering any TS 55 "full" kerf blades as they will just require more power to run. There are also these blades: www.axminster.co.uk/axcaliber-contract-165mm-tct-saw-blades-ax831612 which I suspect will need a spacer since the plate is so thin.
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Post by calidecks on Apr 21, 2017 23:56:36 GMT -5
To both posts - I don’t know. ( holmz, good point ). Combinations of variables like material, speed settings, tooth grind, feed rate, if the “toe-in” is set correctly on saw (base plate guide to upper motor/arbor alignment). I suppose if you own 240v or 110v 50hz or if you use the 110v 50hz on 60hz can even make speed comparisons vary. Certainly one part of the solution is an assortment of blades to take demand off of 'best' blades which is where the lower cost Tenryu’s came in for me when I’m not cutting sheet (or depending on how you pronounce that last word - when I am cutting sheet). Please excuse my ignorance, how would the saw perform if the "toe-in" was set incorrectly? I have a mt55cc, and no nothing about this adjustment you speak of.
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Post by MrToolJunkie on Apr 22, 2017 0:40:33 GMT -5
To both posts - I don’t know. ( holmz, good point ). Combinations of variables like material, speed settings, tooth grind, feed rate, if the “toe-in” is set correctly on saw (base plate guide to upper motor/arbor alignment). I suppose if you own 240v or 110v 50hz or if you use the 110v 50hz on 60hz can even make speed comparisons vary. Certainly one part of the solution is an assortment of blades to take demand off of 'best' blades which is where the lower cost Tenryu’s came in for me when I’m not cutting sheet (or depending on how you pronounce that last word - when I am cutting sheet). Please excuse my ignorance, how would the saw perform if the "toe-in" was incorrectly? I have a mt55cc, and no nothing about this adjustment you speak of. Burning and saw tooth marks on the cut most likely.
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