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Post by aas on May 27, 2022 13:49:01 GMT -5
Just got one of these in a rare sale - pretty unsual to get any discounts on Mafell. Will post back once I've tried it a bit.
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NFU50
May 29, 2022 1:27:02 GMT -5
Post by bicycleclip on May 29, 2022 1:27:02 GMT -5
Just got one of these in a rare sale - pretty unsual to get any discounts on Mafell. Will post back once I've tried it a bit. Looking forward to gaining your impressions. I use the MF26 which is like the NFU50’s little brother, rebating only to a 1” depth and width rather than 2”. It has a plunge function which I like.
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NFU50
May 29, 2022 7:21:33 GMT -5
Post by aas on May 29, 2022 7:21:33 GMT -5
The MF26 is an excellent tool, I used it on a project recently trenching our the back of some frames to sit around the stud wall and hide the plasterboard edges (so about 75mm trench) - ran down the wood three times and it was done - so quick... but it doesn't do 45 degrees and I want to try mitre folding some 19mm board - I think the NFU will be a quick way to do this.
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NFU50
Oct 15, 2022 6:36:39 GMT -5
mattj likes this
Post by aas on Oct 15, 2022 6:36:39 GMT -5
A bit of feedback on the NFU50 : A small point, this is a carpentry tool - I do not do much carpentry (I have 'tested' doing birds mouth cut-outs, etc., it is very powerful, it chomps through the wood!) - I am trying to use it for a purpose for which it is not designed, so please bear that in mind.
Mitre-folding (for any of you who do not do this) is basically cutting a piece of wood at the same point at 45 degrees in each direction, so that when brought back together, the two pieces form a 90 degree whereby the wood grain continues around the corner, (of course this can be done with any pair of matching angles depending on the required result).
I am not sure of the origins, but I know it is a big part of solid surface fabrication, of which I do a quite a bit.
Usual methods for solid surface are : 1) a specialist mitre folding machine, worth looking up if you are interested; 2) router based 'V' cutters; 3) a saw set at 45 degrees (track saw, table saw, mitre saw, etc.
For solid surface, I use a slightly modified Festool TS75 - this is the only thing I use this saw for.
Up here in the mountains, I use a lot of old wood 3 ply panels - this is 2 plies of pine or similar, and the front face is genuine old reclaimed wood. I have been looking for a fast way to mitre fold these panels.
Problems faced : the thickness varies from 19 - 22mm due to the old wood surface. Using a track saw is the easiest solution for cutting down the grain, but doing end grain mitre folds causes a lot of tear-out.
So I had the idea to use the NFU50 tilted at 45 degrees, cutting from the underside - then in one pass the mitre fold is ready.
First issue - it makes so much sawdust, hose blocks in the first couple of seconds of the cut. So quick purchase of a Mafell big hose (I think it's 50mm) for the NFU - problem solved.
The cuts are surprisingly clean, and as I am working from the underside, any slight tear-out is not a problem.
The biggest issue is that the old wood is so dry and the cutter block is so aggressive it can rip out huge splinters to the point that the join is not really acceptable.
As a comparison, I have tried this on some poplar 15mm ply. Taped up the joint line, flip the board, set the NFU to 'almost' the depth of the board, run down the rail, glue, fold - finished. It needs to be clamped while drying, but once the tape is pulled off, there is a near perfect mitre fold. I have tried along the grain and across the grain, same good results.
Next test was with some 3 ply pine panel in 19mm. Very slight tear-out across the grain, but a light sand and it's OK.
For the old wood panels - the reason I purchased the NFU - it is too hit and miss, a problem of the material not the tool. These panels are approx 500 euros each, so I do not feel do happy about ruining even one panel!
I have been finding the K65 is not powerful for cutting these panels at 45 degrees, so I got a KSS80 in a promotion (which I needed for a project in the next few months anyway) I am getting very good results using this.
For now the NFU is sat on the shelf...
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NFU50
Oct 16, 2022 4:13:50 GMT -5
mattj likes this
Post by aas on Oct 16, 2022 4:13:50 GMT -5
... I meant to add - it is based on the K85 with the exception that it tilts to 45 degrees, not 60 like the K85. It is a heavy powerful beast, certainly not the easiest to use on the F-rails when tilted over like that.
It is a bit easier to use on the KSS-L rail, certainly for notching out structural carpentry (for which it is designed!) this is a simple task.
As an asides, there is a special rail for using for processing lots of birds-mouth or similar. I do not have this, I believe it screws to the wood for security and there is an outrigger than runs blade side on the rail, so doing bevel cuts the weight of the machine is supported.
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